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Like you said , there are many variables like if you take long ride every week then replacing oil at short interval will be good , but if your ride are short then oil change can be stretch a bit,
I am not being a horses backside here, but, if you take long rides every week your oil will be in better shape than short rides, especially if your oil doesn't have time to get to higher operating temperatures. When your oil heats up it allows water that may have condensed in your crankcase to boil/evaporate out preventing that water from sitting on metal parts. Short trips that don't warm the bike up don't allow this to happen. I ride my bike year round, change my oil at 5000 miles and have it tested occasionally. I use Rotella T4 and have for the life of the bike. I have never had oil tested that did not meet or exceed every minimum standard for protection. My KLR 650 now has 84,400+ miles and still going strong.
Using good oil is key, Make sure it has the MA/MA2 rating. The engineer at the oil test facility I use says that wet clutch (motorcycles that use the same oil in the clutch/transmission/crankcase) tend to sheer oils pretty quickly. A good MA/MA2 oil will withstand this better than regular automotive oils.
I know this is a Versys forum, it will be my next bike. Sorry about the KLR reference.
 

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2016 Versys 1000 CBF1000 VFR800
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I don't comment much on oil threads, mostly do your thing if you feel strongly about it. Your bike isn't going to die if you don't change oil for 10k. Longevity of engine, well, don't sweat it, we're all doing just fine regardless of our preferences, no worries. It's not all that dirty, you do have a filter after all.
The transmission gears shear oil, but that doesn't degrade lubricating properties much, just shift quality. Certain oils will work better.
I'd stick with 10-40 mostly, maybe 15W40. 20 is getting a little too thick for those cold starts where you want oil quickly where it needs to go in the first 30 seconds.. Short trips bad, long trips good. If all short trips or commuting, then shorten your interval.
Oil will discolour with use, but it it's actually black, you may have a blowby problem, which a compression test will help determine.
Overfilling? I go to max when filling, I like my engines to have all the oil available. A couple ounces overfill isn't going to cause problems, you'd have to grossly overfill. Oil is well below the crankshaft, but there is the "windage" factor, so yes, don't overfill grossly.
 

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How cold of ambient temps are you 15w-50 guys running that?
I ride HOT or COLD, and never even think of what oil I use (M1 15w-50).

I know this is a Versys forum, it will be my next bike. Sorry about the KLR reference.
You'd be amazed at HOW MANY of us came to the V650 from a KLR650.

Oil will discolour with use, but it it's actually black, you may have a blowby problem, which a compression test will help determine.
My V650s got their FIRST oil change at about 50 miles (when I arrived home w/ the NEW bike), and my memory is that AFTER THAT change - the oil ALWAYS appeared black at the oil-changes.
 

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YUP! Quite a few of us run Mobil1 15w-50 in our V650s.

And I have for MORE than 100,000 miles.
Would not have thought it was ok in the engine. I always understood an appropriate oil recommendation by a manufacturer is based on design, clearances, intended use, etc. I've had to use one weight higher on old, worn engines, but not low mileage engines. Previous owner of my 2015 650 changed the oil a thousand miles before I purchased it, so I intend to let it go to 3000, then change to some Amsoil 10w40 I have on the shelf, with a Purolator Boss filter.
 

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I tried amsoil metric oil a few years ago and found it didn’t live up to the hype. In under 5000km the shifting became very clunky. Switched to Motul 7100 and change it at 12000km just because. The inside of the engine is spotlessly clean at almost 80000km.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I don't comment much on oil threads, mostly do your thing if you feel strongly about it. Your bike isn't going to die if you don't change oil for 10k. Longevity of engine, well, don't sweat it, we're all doing just fine regardless of our preferences, no worries. It's not all that dirty, you do have a filter after all.
The transmission gears shear oil, but that doesn't degrade lubricating properties much, just shift quality. Certain oils will work better.
I'd stick with 10-40 mostly, maybe 15W40. 20 is getting a little too thick for those cold starts where you want oil quickly where it needs to go in the first 30 seconds.. Short trips bad, long trips good. If all short trips or commuting, then shorten your interval.
Oil will discolour with use, but it it's actually black, you may have a blowby problem, which a compression test will help determine.
Overfilling? I go to max when filling, I like my engines to have all the oil available. A couple ounces overfill isn't going to cause problems, you'd have to grossly overfill. Oil is well below the crankshaft, but there is the "windage" factor, so yes, don't overfill grossly.
once I overfilled the engine, so that the oil was coming to the top of the window, above the upper mark. would that be considered as excessive overfill?
 

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If you can still see a bit of air, it's not an overfill IMHO.... what are we talking, a coupla three ounces? As soon as you start the engine, the level drops significantly..... do you even see it in your sight glass now? A healthy quart or more just went all through the engine.
In the interests of science, I measured the oil drop on an FJR as I had an engine all apart...... 2 litres disappears as soon as you start it. However, significant overfill does get too close to the crankshaft, top of the sight glass on that bike is 36mm to the bottom of the crank, which was an "overfill" of about 0.5 litres. On a Versys with their lower oil capacity, I'd think overfill to the top of the sight glass would be somewhat less. You do keep track of how much you dump in I hope, so also hope you don't grossly overfill. With a couple of oil changes, you should know exactly what to dump in...
What I'm saying is if you know it's not over the top of the sight glass, call it good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
If you can still see a bit of air, it's not an overfill IMHO.... what are we talking, a coupla three ounces? As soon as you start the engine, the level drops significantly..... do you even see it in your sight glass now? A healthy quart or more just went all through the engine.
In the interests of science, I measured the oil drop on an FJR as I had an engine all apart...... 2 litres disappears as soon as you start it. However, significant overfill does get too close to the crankshaft, top of the sight glass on that bike is 36mm to the bottom of the crank, which was an "overfill" of about 0.5 litres. On a Versys with their lower oil capacity, I'd think overfill to the top of the sight glass would be somewhat less. You do keep track of how much you dump in I hope, so also hope you don't grossly overfill. With a couple of oil changes, you should know exactly what to dump in...
What I'm saying is if you know it's not over the top of the sight glass, call it good.
Thank you! I was wondering how to take the excess oil out? according to the manual, with a syringe from the fill-cap. It did not work for me; i could not reach with the rubber hose the oil.
 

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One time I inadvertently overfilled, so I took my plastic oil-pan, cleaned it WELL, then drained the oil into it, decanted the oil back into the oil-cans and refilled the sump CORRECTLY!

(y)(y)

:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
One time I inadvertently overfilled, so I took my plastic oil-pan, cleaned it WELL, then drained the oil into it, decanted the oil back into the oil-cans and refilled the sump CORRECTLY!

(y)(y)

:cool:
Yes, this what I did too. And one time, I took the oil filter out to remove small amount of oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I saw this youtube posted on 300 forum. while it refers to first oil change, this maybe also serve as an inspiration to change the oil more frequently.

 

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I changed the oil every 12,000kms on my previous Versys and had not problems with it, so dit with 136,000kms on the clock. Always used car oil, synthetic, and Bosch 3300 filters.

IIRC the manual calls for oil changes every 12,000kms with mineral oil, following that interval with synthetic is already on the safe side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I changed the oil every 12,000kms on my previous Versys and had not problems with it, so dit with 136,000kms on the clock. Always used car oil, synthetic, and Bosch 3300 filters.

IIRC the manual calls for oil changes every 12,000kms with mineral oil, following that interval with synthetic is already on the safe side.
that quite amazing. did you have to open the engine at sometime to fix anything?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I have one more question. I live part time in India, and several of my bikes are sitting there. I always fill the bikes with fresh synthetic oil when storing them. But now they are sitting there almost 2 years, and I doubt that in the current situation I can go back there any soon. Would I need to change the oil again? Does it deteriorate in time? Sitting in the bike, is not the same as in a bottle, as some oxidation takes place.
 

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I put amsoil full synthetic in my bike and ride it every single day essentially since I don't have a car and I change it every year don't even bother with the mileage!
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
yes, but what if the bike is not being used. does the oil go bad in time?
 

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yes, but what if the bike is not being used. does the oil go bad in time?
If the bikes are stored indoors they will be fine. Tires and batteries would be of more concern from sitting than the oil in the crankcase.
 

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My only concern with going longer distances between oil changes is that the Versys only carries 2.3 liters of oil and you actually change just 1.8 liters with a filter change. In my books that is not a lot of oil. As to leaving oil in an engine for years, yes it will deteriorate after a couple of years. That is why the manufactures always state " Even if you don't put enough miles to do an oil change, change the oil at least once every year". There are always acids , including moisture left in the oil that will start to do its thing on the parts inside an engine. As time goes on the moving parts inside the engine & transmission loose their oil film protection. Synthetics are better at providing this oil film protection but given long enough even that will end up in the sump.

I tend to change earlier than later. Oil is cheap insurance in my mind.
 

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I HOPE this isn't a repeat post: I ALWAYS change oil at 5,000 miles// 8,000 kms, so I just look at my odometer for the current mileage and IF the numbers LEFT of the " , " are divisible by " 5 " in the US, or by " 8 " in Canada, then it's time to change the oil and filter!

AND I ONLY use Mobil1 15w-50

(y)(y)

:cool:
 
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