[Tgoods]

Man I love that trick of zip-tying the camshaft sprockets to the chain. That would have saved me 30 minutes.

 

[onewizard]

More Pictures 07

I thought I added these photos somewhere , anyway, the proper position for cam chain sync position. A long but excellent thread should be a sticky!!

Photo 1 and 8 show proper position for valve timing.
Photo 6&7 show the proper cam chain sprocket positions c/w paint marks, note #6 is looking just over the edge of the casting, note both white paint marks align with top of head..
Photo #7 is taken from a above head showing the same white paint marks on the cam chain sprockets

Note in service manual 2/T , because it isn't possible to print -- 2 -- , However the manual has a picture off to the side
-------------------------------------------------------------------------, T

with the correct same as my photo position!!!

 

[onewizard]

Valve Shim Update/ Poor English

Hi onewizard,

Thx for your long answer but honestly I did not understand if you are ignoring me or trying to help.Because of my poor English, I ve difficulties to understand technical and complicated words:)
Just a question, can I do that valve adjustment myself or better let it to dealer to do.

thx in advance.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/9-technical-discussion/22058-valve-check-adjustment.html just updated my pictures to this thread!!

First lots of pictures, if you don't understand this thread, best to PAY someone, expect to pay around $500 USD if adjustment needed.

If you are willing to try yourself, and are patient, lots of members here are willing to help or clarify any questions. You can also private message in a language you are familiar with, Google translate works somewhat OK, although Italian isn't it's strong point!!

Complete manual is available in PDF format on this site!!
Caution, very easy to do permanent damage if :
#1 -you don't have a torque wrench
#2 -you don't set the torque wrench to the proper value
#3 - you force things, this is precision mountings for the cams , and are ground as a set, break one and you are :badidea:
it has happened when another member thought the bolt was tight and didn't notice the cam block wasn't seated properly or mixed them up! Once broken no turning back-----Patience is the key, once complete you will say it was easy.
#4- what I said in #3, applies to taking things apart, some have been able to get the airbox off leaving the throttle mounting intact , the time it takes to remove the throttle mounting is well worth the frustration you may encounter trying to get the airbox off without this process !!
#5 while you are at it check your stick coils and plugs, use dielectric grease on the boots of the stick coils, explained better in another thread--However at your mileage not absolutely needed to check these coils and plugs.

:feedback:

 

[onewizard]

After reading/looking at that I do believe I'll just take it to a shop. I have the tools and the ability just not the ambition.

My comment is if you don't have the ambition but have the money, why not, well my take on someone not having the ambition, is nothing worse than getting the bike back, a week later and finding you spent $500 to $600 dollars and begin to wonder if they just took your money. It is at that point where you are kicking your ass for not doing it yourself. Just keep in mind the largest part of the cost, say $400 worth is getting at the valves, several have posted where bolts / parts were missing when returned.

I have said before; your bike your decision your money:thumb:

 

[onewizard]

Have Camera? Take Pictures

Ok.I really thank you so much onewizard.
I all read thread about EVS.But that looks really difficult and complicated.I do not trust myself that I can do it.I wish I could.
I bought all tools what I need for Center Stand Installing and Tire Changing etc and payed almost 250$ for all.Tork Wrench etc. looks like I have all main tools even for EVS.But oooopps really difficult.
I'll ask dealer how much they will charge me for that
I wish somebody could help me about that.

Thx a lot.

Get a quote from your dealer and post it, lots of members on here that have done this service and if you had the time, you could always post pictures and ask questions, our normal charge out fee is $00.00 dollars US:grin2: Canadian currency is even cheaper >

You have all the tools,this one is a step by step with pictures of a ninja Bucky's Ride: Valve Clearance Adjustment Tips

This is part of the original link, with a list of what you need complete with pictures :http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/234873-post15.html

Like I said, if you have time, several things can be done to make the job easier, wire ties on the cam chain sprockets, before you start, you need a special wrench for the cam chain tensioner on the 2015, this has been discussed here;
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...iscussion/116569-gen-3-v650-cam-chain-tensioner.html?highlight=half+moon+wrench

 

[fasteddiecopeman]

Ok.I really thank you so much onewizard.
I all read thread about EVS.But that looks really difficult and complicated.I do not trust myself that I can do it.I wish I could.
I bought all tools what I need for Center Stand Installing and Tire Changing etc and payed almost 250$ for all.Tork Wrench etc. looks like I have all main tools even for EVS.But oooopps really difficult.
I'll ask dealer how much they will charge me for that
I wish somebody could help me about that.

Thx a lot.

You WILL need a 1/4" torque wrench (some bolts require AROUND 106"/# of torque [or LESS]), which is ONLY a bit LESS than NINE FOOT POUNDS. Some have broken bolts by TRYING 106 '/#.

BTW - the 1/4" torque wrenches at Harbor-Freight were highly rated by CAR CRAFT magazine, and run about $12 w/ a coupon.

FWIW - I had to convince myself BEFORE I did my valves the first time. Just be careful, READ the SERVICE MANUAL a few times before you start, and TAKE YOUR TIME....

:goodluck:

 

[onewizard]

Good Advice from a Wise Old Owl

You WILL need a 1/4" torque wrench (some bolts require AROUND 106"/# of torque [or LESS]), which is ONLY a bit LESS than NINE FOOT POUNDS. Some have broken bolts by TRYING 106 '/#.

BTW - the 1/4" torque wrenches at Harbor-Freight were highly rated by CAR CRAFT magazine, and run about $12 w/ a coupon.

FWIW - I had to convince myself BEFORE I did my valves the first time. Just be careful, READ the SERVICE MANUAL a few times before you start, and TAKE YOUR TIME....

:goodluck:

What Eddie said:funnypost::goodidea::thumb::thumb:

 

[onewizard]

Price is Right

Lately I got a quote from my dealer for EVS service+7600 miles periodic maintenance.
Are you ready?
Yes 715$ for all.May be little bit more according the time they will spend extra.
So, I read everything about EVS here in this pages and everywhere.I ll open my bike may be I can do that or not.May be I break my bike but I ll not pay that money for the dealer.
Anybody close to Newport Beach / CA which can help me about that, I ll be very happy.

Thanks for posting, that price reflects the amount of labour that goes into doing the job, reality is a good $300 to $400 is just getting at the valve cover, so paying someone $300 to$400 to remove the seat, plastic,signal lights , gas tank, air box, connectors, throttle cable mount,pull the stick coils, pull the plugs, and reverse the procedure, well that is really what happens. The Vacuum sync can be made real easy after the first time, no fuel line extension needed, no taking anything apart, 5 minutes and you are ready to ride, provided it is in sync it was suggested to me in a prior post, I have explained that and thanked the OP for the suggestion. Nothing worse than taking things apart to find nothing needs adjusting.

So keep us posted EVS isn't something to be concerned about, one early warning is rough idling, being hard to start.
Thought I would add a excellent post by Invader; http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/636202-post2.html
Now that I have a proper set of gauges, and I need to thank Smiley, I wish I had purchased many years ago, sure is better than my homemade manometer !!

 

[Beezerboy]

my experience with shim kits is you get too many that you will never need. the valves almost always get tighter over time, not looser. no harm in sanding them down for a fit, they are through hardened high alloy steel

before I got a surface plate I used a piece of glass. tape the sandpaper to the glass, hot glue the shim to a piece of dowel

 

[Steve in Sunny Fl]

If you look at the very first picture, you will see my sync of my 2015. Exactly the same and in spec. you need to read the manual for carbtune. The service manual says 37.9 KPA which is 28.7 cmHG. In my photo I was at 26, carbtune states within 2 cmHG , on the first page they are talking balance being the most important , not the value of 26 or 28.


http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1216537-post19.html

Well this is not exactly true. Let's remember that the vacuum achieved has everything to do not with sync but with valve timing and seating, particularly seating. so if a bike is in need of a valve adjustment, the vacuum will be low on the cylinder with tight valves. I have done video's that address these issues

1)

2)

If you'll watch the first one you'll understand how the valve clearance results in pressurizing the intake, if you watch the second one, and particularly the part about how guys try to close the throttle adjuster to bring a low cylinder vacuum higher and only result in wedging the throttle valve against the bore which results in the inability to effect any further adjustment, you'll begin to understand how the valve adjustment is the primary driver of what the sync vacuum will be.

Also, whether or not the airbox is connected has nothing to do with the sync, as the manifold vacuum is separated from the airbox by the throttle plates. HTH, Steve

 

[fasteddiecopeman]

my SIXTH valve check...

When I did the first valve check on my '08 back in Dec '10 at 20,429 miles to find the exhaust were 'tight' as were two intakes
#1 L EX .19mm R EX .195mm #2 L EX .18mm R EX .18mm
#1 L IN .19mm R IN .19mm #2 L IN .15mm R IN .15mm
I ordered all the required shims from Kawi (six in all, ALL exhausts plus two intakes), and when they came I measured them to find that they were NOT exactly what I wanted (I believe in having clearances as close to the "loose" end as I can get) but the mechanic let me go thru his selection for various MXers, and I got them all pretty close, ending up w/:
#1 L EX .30mm R EX .29mm #2 L EX .29mm R EX .29mm
#1 L IN .19mm R IN .19mm (ORIGINAL SHIMS!) #2 L IN .18mm R IN .19mm
and I changed the spark-plugs.

Next check was Jan '13 at 39,394 miles when I measured, and found that they were ALL OK, just slightly tighter on the exhausts, but still toward the 'loose' end
#1 L EX .29mm R EX .28mm #2 L EX .28mm R EX .28mm
#1 L IN .18mm R IN .19mm #2 L IN .19mm R IN .19mm
so I put it all back together and continued riding, but did NOT replace the sparkplugs.

When my stator 'died' on Wednesday the 18th I ordered a new one from Ebay, and decided I'd do some routine maintenance while awaiting the new stator, so I started in to 'doing' the valves, as there were now 68,680 miles on.

While reading my SERVICE MANUAL to remove the throttle-cables, I remembered someone asking if he needed to remove the throttle-bodies to do the check, so I took a look at them, and saw that there are four (I believe) electrical sockets (all different so impossible to mix up!) as well as two socket capscrews UNDER them holding them in. My throttle-cables were already off, so I got busy and removed the throttle-bodies, amazed at how EASY it became to remove the "cylinder-head-cover" now, and put rags IN to keep stuff OUT.



I checked my clearances, finding, altho' still w/in limits, my exhausts HAD tightened slightly while the intakes were still essentially where they'd been for 48,450 miles since the FIRST valve check!
#1 L EX .27mm R EX .25mm #2 L EX .26mm R EX .25mm
#1 L IN .18mm R IN .19mm #2 L IN .185mm R IN .19mm

The other three checks on my Canadian Vs I'd 'sanded' the shims to correct them, so I did the same here.



As I only needed to adjust the exhausts, I removed its cam cover and zip-tied the cam-chain to the sprocket so I wouldn't 'slip' the timing.



It was nice working w/out the throttle-bodies in the way, and I soon started buttoning-up the engine.



Next was to reinstall the cam-chain-tensioner (which had been a huge PITA on my '15 in BC) as its 'cap bolt' must go against the spring's tension, then I realized that I could HOLD the spring against the cam chain w/ my finger, turn the crankshaft about 20 degrees using the same socket I'd used to turn the crank during checking the valves - CW ONLY! - so the tensioner would START taking-up the chain's tension. This time installing the cap bolt was fairly easy, and I finished putting it all together.

I had already installed the new stator, so I 'suited-up' and went for a 20 mile ride to confirm that everything worked OK, there were NO leaks or strange sounds, and it was FINE!

:thumb: - :thumb:

Additionally I went for a 216 mile ride yesterday, and everything worked just FINE!

 

[onewizard]

Anyone Checking, I have a host of pictures/ improvements, wiring harness issues related the the valve shim check, probably 50 photos. I am being sidetracked by additional wiring, removed my fabricated GoPro mount, made a new one, added a Innovv K1 camera, have 2 yellow and two white led strip lights, 2 single pole double throw relays for the strip lights triggered off the signal lights, so lots of work, and tomorrow and Thursday it is to be 15'C, so my time on the forum is limited. FYI, the valve shim set up I have come up with eliminates any cam chain tensioner problem on reassembly, eliminates 100% being off in the cam chain timing, and eliminates guess work.Yes this is like offering a donkey a carrot, sorry, my bike comes first!

Hopefully posting photos and text July 2017

 

[fasteddiecopeman]

I "did" the valves on my '15 650 (second time). Out of the eight valves, ALL four intakes were STILL at the MAX clearance end (L to R: .22mm, .22mm, .215mm, .22mm), while three of the four exhausts were tighter than I like at the MAX clearance end - altho' they were ALL w/in the limits, and they were (L to R: .295mm, .280mm, .275mm, .320mm), so I "sandpapered" the first three down.

When I finish the job later, I'll include their clearance values AFTER.

BTW - I spent FIVE hours doing them thus far (obviously I'm NOT a certified mechanic, tho' I have done valves on the V 650 around SEVEN times), so IF I was paying a Kawi service-man to do them.......!

OTOH - they were ALL w/in limits, so most mechanics would have just 'buttoned' it up...:nono:..., so LESS than five hours....

Finished doing the valves yesterday, so here are some observations for those w/ Gen 3 650s:

I installed a "Bikemaster" air-filter about 17,000 kms ago (10K+ miles), and pics one and two show how clean it still is, so I just re-installed it.

Pic 3 shows the top of my engine w/ the fuel injection throttle-bodies system removed - it gives WAY-Y-Y better access, and is NOT difficult to do.

The next 6 show MY solution for re-installing the "cam-chain-tensioner" on the Gen 3s - seems to be way more difficult to install than it was/ IS in my Gen 1 Vs.

The central "cap-bolt" is VERY difficult to get back IN, and started threading against the pressure from the spring. I FINALLY cut my 'obstruction' 12mm/13mm wrench into two pieces; determined at which point the cap-bolt threads STARTED to engage (did THAT w/out the spring, then marked the bolt at the 12 o'clock position); then re-installed the spring and w/ the HALF wrench on the cap-bolt was able to PUSH it in while the aprox. 90 degrees I could turn the shorter wrench allowed me to 'engage' the threads and continue turning it till it was seated.

THIS 'modification' made it significantly easier to finish the job!

:thumb: - :thumb:

 

[onewizard]

Finished doing the valves yesterday, so here are some observations for those w/ Gen 3 650s:

I installed a "Bikemaster" air-filter about 17,000 kms ago (10K+ miles), and pics one and two show how clean it still is, so I just re-installed it.

Pic 3 shows the top of my engine w/ the fuel injection throttle-bodies system removed - it gives WAY-Y-Y better access, and is NOT difficult to do.

The next 6 show MY solution for re-installing the "cam-chain-tensioner" on the Gen 3s - seems to be way more difficult to install than it was/ IS in my Gen 1 Vs.

The central "cap-bolt" is VERY difficult to get back IN, and started threading against the pressure from the spring. I FINALLY cut my 'obstruction' 12mm/13mm wrench into two pieces; determined at which point the cap-bolt threads STARTED to engage (did THAT w/out the spring, then marked the bolt at the 12 o'clock position); then re-installed the spring and w/ the HALF wrench on the cap-bolt was able to PUSH it in while the aprox. 90 degrees I could turn the shorter wrench allowed me to 'engage' the threads and continue turning it till it was seated.

THIS 'modification' made it significantly easier to finish the job!

:thumb: - :thumb:

Too bad you didn't see my http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1428418-post9.html and post 8. My cam chain tensioner bolt went in by hand two full turns, no wrench required and I used three fingers, absolutely easy, the breaker bar was key to success . And I have your excellent advice from your previous valve shim attributing to me finding a solution. Also a FYI, if you leave the main TPS wire hanging in the air it is very similar to running like crap and no fast idle, did a vacuum sync then decided to tighten the clamps for the air box, easier to see with the sensor unplugged, it worked out for the best because now I know what the bike sounds and runs like when the sensor fails:grin2:

For those wanting more info my main thread:
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...om/forums/74-how-forum/133514-valve-shim-vacuum-sync-2015-650abs-onewizard.html
A handy spread sheet

 

[SteveJ]

Here's a little toy to help with the math of it all:

https://www.crfsonly.com/calculators/crf450-valve-shim-calc.php

Iff'n you don't feel like sanding things down there are shim kits avalable for about $70-80. The one I bought had 47 sizes, three each. The brand name is Hot Cams. They come in .05 increments.

HTH.

 

[Gigitt]

I used this site to do my shim calculations. It is very comprehensive:
Triumph Universal Valve Shim Calculator Tool

I also found a Australian place that manufactures shims and has them in 0.02 sizes.
Most of the kits you find and I think OEM shims are all 0.05 or 0.025 sized

When I did my shims in 2014 on my 2012 Versys, I set mine as close to the upper/loose limit as this will allow for a longer wear interval.

For us Ozzies, the Australian site I bought my shims at is: Flat Shims

 

[onewizard]

A More Detailed Explanation

I've been using regular feeler gauges since the very early sixties.
I guess it's time to get up to date.

This explanation found on the net permitted me to see the usefulness of these go no go gauges.

"The stepped or go/no-go feeler gauge is more convenient to use in many cases than the common or flat blade type gauge. The blades of the stepped feeler gauge are of two thicknesses.
If the desired clearance is 0.011 inch, select the blade labeled ".010 - .012." One-half inch of the tip of a 0.012-inch blade is ground to a thickness of 0.010 inch.
If the 0.010-inch tip will enter the opening, but the blade stops when it reaches the 0.012-inch area, the clearance is between 0.010 inch and 0.012 inch or very close to the measurement desired, 0.011 inch."

Thanks for the tip! I'll be shopping.

Like I said, someone will explain it better!!

Redirect To Active Thread http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...technical-discussion/22058-valve-check-adjustment.html?nojs=1#goto_threadsearch

:thanx::thumb::thumb::thumb:

 

[twowheels]

Thought I would post this for anyone contemplating doing this. I learned a few things along the way I wanted to pass on and to also thank those on this forum who gave me good advice.

The process itself is reasonably well documented in the manual but there are a few things that might help in no particular order....

• it's relatively easy to do yourself if you have a some basic mechanical skills, patience, and own a socket set and other basic tools
• you need an environment to work where you can set aside the bike with the valve cover off for a few days while you order in new shims. I covered my engine with a lint free rag for this.
• buy a roll of tear resistant, lint free shop towels instead of using paper towel
• clean the top of the engine first and nearby areas with WD-40 or brake cleaner to prevent contaminates from entering the engine when you open it up
• fill up the spark holes after removing the plugs with bunched up shop towel so you don't drop bolts or other parts into the cylinder, this will ruin your entire day. I did this twice however the holes where blocked so there were no issues. You don't need to remove plugs however you may want to check or change them. Removing or loosening them makes it easier to rotate the engine by hand.
• use twisted wire to hold up the cam chain when you remove the cams. Dropping it into the unreachable deep recesses of the engine will ruin your entire day.
• be extremely careful not to scratch the cam buckets when removing them with tools like needle nose plyers
• put some grease or oil on cam bearings when reassembling them
• make 100% sure cam timing is correct and rotate engine twice with rachet after cams are bolted in position and tensioner reinstalled, to ensure there is no obstruction with valves. Count out cam chain links multiple times (32) between cams as pictures in the manual are not precise on this.
• try to set the valves clearances near the top of the range as they will elongate over time
• measure everything multiple times until you see a pattern of consistency
• purchase a device to measure shim thickness online or at Princess Auto/Harbor Freight for < $20. Any oil or dirt on shim will impact measurement
• purchasing a shim kit ahead of time only makes sense if you are doing multiple bikes
• put each shim and bucket into a labeled (Intake 1a, Exhaust 2b, etc.) zip lock sandwich bag so you don't get them mixed up. Cylinder 1 is on left of bike
• it can be helpful to have two people when reinstalling cams but is not mandatory.
• clean dry and then oil the air filter when putting stuff back together
• do a throttle body sync after putting the engine back together as a valve clearance adjustment may throw this off although mine was bang on after this and required no adjustment
• Removing the center bolt of the cam chain tensioner does not release the cam chain tensioner. You will need to remove the cam chain tensioner entirely with the two small bolts before removing cams from their mounts. Leave the center bolt alone for removal. Remove center bolt and spring only after it is removed from the engine and reset it by pushing it fully back fully into itself while pressing the ratchet release. Install back on bike without center bolt and spring with tensioner reset. Only install the spring and center bolt after cams are bolted in place and the tensioner is mounted on bike.
• it should be fine to reuse the engine valve cover gasket unless you already have oil leaks. It will however be handy to have some RTV sealant on hand to use where directed by the manual during reassembly.
• the intake and exhaust cams are different but are marked. the gears on the end are identical. no need to remove gears from the cams shafts as the manual suggests
• I put everything back together only to discover the radiator shroud plate that attaches to the valve cover was still sitting under a paper towel on the workbench. Don't do this.

have on hand....

• work light plus flashlight/light from phone
• roll of shop towels
• clean area on workbench or table to lay out removed parts plus old muffin tin or other to hold removed parts, maybe put down clean cardboard on workbench first
• 8 zip lock bags with marker
• measurement device for measuring valve shims accurately down to one, one ten thousands of a meter (eg. digital caliper) (accurate to at least + or minus 0.005mm
• 2ft of wire
• RTV sealant
• metric feeler gauge
• pen and paper
• bolt/part retrieval magnet on arm to reach hard to retrieve dropped bolts and washers

 

[fasteddiecopeman]

I added a few things to this post when twowheels put it into the "Go to first new post Valve Shim /Vacuum Sync 2015 650ABS /Onewizard" thread, just ABOVE this thread.

 

[onewizard]

Friction / Torque/ Dry / Wet/ wear surface

1. Be careful. I've NEVER had to replace any of 'em.

2. Just checked my '15 SERVICE MANUAL - it says "...Cylinder head cover bolt washers should be metal side up...". I've "done" valves on my three V650s many times, and have just done what the MANUAL says to do, and that's on TWO GEN 1s as well as the Gen 3.

:goodluck:

The reason for metal up, is the head of the bolt creates friction, the rubber could be easily damaged while turning the head of the bolt, if the washer were to bind on the valve cover. With the rubber side down against the valve cover, tow things occur, one the washer acts as a seal, prevents the washer from turning while torquing and allows some expansion when the motor heats up, I guess that is 3.Proper torque at ambient temperature, also keep in mind, whendoing the valve shim check, keep all bolts in a separate container, oil free , this applies to the casting threads as well, oil free, I have used brake cleaner to remove traces of oil. Many never consider the original assembly of the motor, the oil was added after assembly, all bolts were oil free
Wet torque ( as in lubed threads) is about 75 % that of dry torque, so very easy to strip aluminum threads if you aren't careful . https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf

Here is the active thread where further questions and discussions can take place. From time to time updates get copied to this thread, intent is to keep all discussions in the technical discussion thread, as posting count restrictions limit this thread to long time members.

https://www.kawasakiversys.com/foru...l-models/223795-valve-shim-check-valve-timing-valve-adjustment-lgajohnymac.html