[dddd]

** Speeds are not what the gearingcommander.com site predicted.

if you went from factory 15/46 to 16/45, then it should be 91.7% of rpm,
That fits your 6000 rpms speeds.
But 5000 rpms should become 4585 rpms.
If your rpms go down to 4250 (85%), you'd have to have about 16/42.
So gopro is quite off!

 

[jaikanth123]

Hello folks, on this topic, I tried to change to16/43 but then found that the 16T that came with the Chain kit was too big for the engine casing. (so big like it was like the chain got stuck and wouldn't move). Hence I had to order a 15T sprocket separately and fit it along with the 43T rear...

Now my question to those who upgraded to 16T, can you guys share me the website link from where you purchased? I'm from India and it's a PITA to get such aftermarket parts here.

Thanks in advance!

 

[onewizard]

Hello folks, on this topic, I tried to change to16/43 but then found that the 16T that came with the Chain kit was too big for the engine casing. (so big like it was like the chain got stuck and wouldn't move). Hence I had to order a 15T sprocket separately and fit it along with the 43T rear...

Now my question to those who upgraded to 16T, can you guys share me the website link from where you purchased? I'm from India and it's a PITA to get such aftermarket parts here.

Thanks in advance!

First today is my first day back as a regular member. Super Mod gone, I recal something like this before, first you probably have the wrong chain. I had a 16T sprocket on my 07, that 43 is way off, you need to return to stock rear. Listen to all the others that have posted , you should have 16/46 if you go that way, the chain needs to be a quality chain EK- SRX2 , be aware you will have about 0.020 clearance around the housing, you need the rubber dampened front sprocket , part number is in this post #20 So, having some issues, need help diagnosing

 

[jaikanth123]

First today is my first day back as a regular member. Super Mod gone, I recal something like this before, first you probably have the wrong chain. I had a 16T sprocket on my 07, that 43 is way off, you need to return to stalk rear. Listen to all the others that have posted , you should have 16/46 if you go that way, the chain needs to be a quality chain EK- SRX2 , be aware you will have about 0.020 clearance around the housing, you need the rubber dampened front sprocket , part number is in this post #20 So, having some issues, need help diagnosing

Thank you for that link. You're right I did buy the wrong kit (cus I'm a noob to biking) I had bought the KAWASAKI 2013-2017 ZX6R VORTEX 520 CHAIN & SPROCKET KIT OEM GEARING 16-43 GOLDi kit from ebay that time thinking that there won't be any issues with the fit... 🤦‍♂️

So now I realize that only JT sprocket makes a 16T compatible for V650 not other sprocket manufacturers.

 

[Jungle Phantom]

Thank you for that link. You're right I did buy the wrong kit (cus I'm a noob to biking) I had bought the KAWASAKI 2013-2017 ZX6R VORTEX 520 CHAIN & SPROCKET KIT OEM GEARING 16-43 GOLDi kit from ebay that time thinking that there won't be any issues with the fit... 🤦‍♂️

So now I realize that only JT sprocket makes a 16T compatible for V650 not other sprocket manufacturers.

all 16 tooth 520 sprockets are the same size... JT, Supersrox, OEM, Acme... you name it Bro.

The fault lies with the chain, not the sprocket. Low quality chains have bigger links
to make up for the weaker steel... dont get that confused with more distance between
the rollers.

The chain size ie. 520 is imperial. and relates to 1/8th of an inch.
The first number 5 designates the pitch. in this case it is 5/8ths of an inch pin to pin.
the second dimension also relates to 1/8th of an inch. However the second numerator
is the last two numbers ie. 20 and is in fact 2.0... 2.0 1/8ths of an inch... which
of course is 1/4 inch. That dimension is the width of the chain between the inner plates...
for all intents and purposes the width of the rollers.

A 525 chain has 5/8ths of an inch from pin to pin.... but 2.5 eighths of an inch of course
is 5/16 of an inch wide.

 

[onewizard]

As to 16T rubber dampened front sprocket, up until 2019, it was a Ninja part number, many have used a non dampened sprocket, my feeling is it helps with the chain slack as opposed to a non dampened sprocket. A post earlier about clearance, 0.020 was measured by Speedy MotoWerk on a 16T UN-dampened sprocket, I found with my 2015 and the PR5 tires, I am within 3 KM/HR using the OEM 15T , knowing how little clearance there is, I stuck with the 15T. You get a couple ceased links and you might be kissing your A^*= goodby and your gearbox.

 

[fasteddiecopeman]

Since the FIRST countershaft sprocket change on ALL THREE of my V650s - I've replaced w/ NON rubber-damped, and have had NO issues.

 

[jaikanth123]

all 16 tooth 520 sprockets are the same size... JT, Supersrox, OEM, Acme... you name it Bro.

The fault lies with the chain, not the sprocket. Low quality chains have bigger links
to make up for the weaker steel... dont get that confused with more distance between
the rollers.

The chain size ie. 520 is imperial. and relates to 1/8th of an inch.
The first number 5 designates the pitch. in this case it is 5/8ths of an inch pin to pin.
the second dimension also relates to 1/8th of an inch. However the second numerator
is the last two numbers ie. 20 and is in fact 2.0... 2.0 1/8ths of an inch... which
of course is 1/4 inch. That dimension is the width of the chain between the inner plates...
for all intents and purposes the width of the rollers.

A 525 chain has 5/8ths of an inch from pin to pin.... but 2.5 eighths of an inch of course
is 5/16 of an inch wide. View attachment 179493

Appreciate the info but this is also confusing me because in my case I only used the 520 pitch chain which means I shouldn't have had fitting issues with the front sprocket, correct? Below are the chain kit's pics for reference. You think the chain is oversized or the front sprocket which led to the fitting issues?

 

[jaikanth123]

Since the FIRST countershaft sprocket change on ALL THREE of my V650s - I've replaced w/ NON rubber-damped, and have had NO issues.

Hi Eddie, can you share some pics and the part# pls?

 

[fasteddiecopeman]

Here's a pic of my Gen 1 w/ the OEM (damped) sprocket

DSC01421 copy 2 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

and here's the "SUNSTAR" replacement (I use JIS ones also)

DSC01427 copy by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

the worn OEM on the left, SUNSTAR on the right

DSC01428 copy by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

and 'looping' the NEW chain over the SUNSTAR - I ALWAYS paint one link so I can see 'where I am' while lubing the chain, and IF you want to see CLEAN - watch for "weljo" pics...!

DSC01432 copy by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

 

[jaikanth123]

Here's a pic of my Gen 1 w/ the OEM (damped) sprocket

DSC01421 copy 2 by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

and here's the "SUNSTAR" replacement (I use JIS ones also)

DSC01427 copy by Ed Copeman, on Flickr

Awesome! Thank you

 

[Dr.House]

I have the same bike as the OP (Mark3) but model year 2016.

According to the SunStar search form , the Factory setup is this:

SUNSTAR

www.sunstarmoto.com

_
FRONT SPROCKET: 15
REAR SPROCKET: 46
CHAIN: 520
LINKS: 114
_

BTW, my stock rear sprocket was also a Sunstar 46.

I changed it with this new Susntar 43

SUNSTAR

www.sunstarmoto.com

I must say that I highly doubt that it is possible to have a 19/33 combination.

1 - The clearance in the front (engine housing) seems way too small for a 4 teeth increase from stock.

2 - going to 33 rear !!! means that in order to have the chain in the correct tension/slack,
you have to move your rear axle way-way back. Or else remove links from the chain in order to avoid this.
@OP Did you have to shorten your chain in your case?

In my case I only changed from 46 to 43, and I was immediately past the middle of the tension marks on the swing-arm.
It looks like this:

3 - The rear sprocket diameter would be reduced so much that the chain would almost certainly keep
scraping/grinding against the swing-arm metal.

My two cents:

I would advise not to increase the front teeth by more than 1, and then you can play/experiment
with the rear sprocket with values like 40,41,..46 ..etc. Extreme changes must be avoided.
After all, is it only a 650cc engine.

 

[jaaklucas]

I also used a non rubber dampened countershaft sprocket last change. Not by any particular design and it works well.

 

[16VGTIDave]

The rubber sprocket is designed to reduce noise and vibration from the chain. While it isn’t necessary, it does make riding a bit nicer, even when wearing ear plugs. If one uses an un-dampened sprocket, the chain lash has to be adjusted looser than the factory spec or it will be too tight. I’ve found 55mm works well on my gen2.

 

[betoney]

I must say that I highly doubt that it is possible to have a 19/33 combination.

My two cents:

I would advise not to increase the front teeth by more than 1, and then you can play/experiment
with the rear sprocket with values like 40,41,..46 ..etc. Extreme changes must be avoided.
After all, is it only a 650cc engine.

Correct, its not physically possible and even if it was, the motor doesnt make enough power to run the gearing he claimed. The OP later posted a much different sprocket combination when he actually counted the teeth.

"As far as sprockets; stock is the 15/46. And I looked into it, and my set up right now is 16/41"

 

[microbhai]

Did the MPG drop?

 

[BrokeAssCycles]

 

[Jungle Phantom]

Hello all. I have a 2015 Versys 650 LT.

This year, I changed my stock sprockets to be almost all centered around cruising, top end, high MPG, and long riding. So I went down as much as I could in the rear, and up as much as I could in the front. It ended up being something like down 13 rear, up 3 or 4 in the front I think.

NOW, before everyone says "wow, that's such a crazy change" I have to say, that I had previously given it a try where I went only slightly lower, rather than the max I could. And it just wasn't the difference I wanted. I pretty much ONLY do highway miles, and when I'm at 80 mph, I don't want to be at 6K vibrating as all get out. So I'm very pleased with the end result so far, because the RPMs are wayyy lower and make it more comfortable to ride.

DOWNSIDES: There is two huge downsides occurring however.
1. The speed calibration. It is showing as 10 miles under my actual limit. So I have to do some math to make sure I'm "going the speed limit"
2. The MPG has gone unacceptably low. I went from 48-50 MPG to now about 35 MPG. At first I chalked this up to punching the bike when I got it back from the shop, just to see it's new limits. And that's not the issue, I have ridden it in the most Eco friendly riding style, and I can not for the life of me pass 38 MPG.

So talking with a friend of mine, he recommend the solution to both of these downsides would be to get a DynoJet Power Commander. I wanted to probe the V650 community and get everyone's thoughts on that. If I went that route, I could even set up different maps for riding conditions. Highway, sport, off road, etc. He also mentioned something about the Power Commander even controlling the ABS module, which I wasn't sure about either, but this guy's ridden way longer and is a mechanic. So what do I know? If it could control the ABS module, than I could remove my ABS breaker switch that I keep in the right outlet on the panel, and put a system in place to rapidly change between Power Commander Maps.

What are your thoughts on these? Any advice is appreciated!

EDIT: Gearing is 16/41

Usually manufacturers set the gearing to
the right of the peak... so it's fairly calm
at highway speeds. And often to achieve sound and exhaust emission regulations) However my gen II Versys650
(and I believe all Versys 650s) are set very close to
the peak of that curve standard from the factory

IMHO, that means that at full throttle on a flat road
during average atmospheric conditions the bike will
be able to (have just enough power and no more) to reach redline RPM.

The way the OP has the bike geared it would do over 275 if it could reach
its redline RPM geared as he says... he has done to it...
Of course the Kwaka 650 twin just does not have the mumbo
to overcome the aerodynamic drag of 275 +

Also IMHO, fuel economy is best when geared just ever so slightly to the right of the peak of my curve above... any further to the right fuel economy will suffer.

And what is not just IMHO, but is fact, is that the max acceleration is grossly reduced by the way the OP has the bike geared. Not to mention the lifespan of the engine is compromised... if he uses top gear.

In short, what the OP has done is a Cluster F**k, and
the thought that it can be remedied by a reprogram of
the EMU (I always felt Engine Management Unit has more
charisma than Engine Control Unit... I digress) is laughable.

Having said all that; don't feel too insulted Shadow Rider...
when I was an adolescent wanna be avgas cowboy I did some
horrendously stupid s*** to my wheels too.

 

[Jungle Phantom]

If I consistently rode my ZX12R in the rev range good ol' Ryan suggests I'd be arrested and locked up and my bike would be confiscated and put in the crusher and probably be recycled into baked bean cans.

 

[JT in GA]

If I consistently rode my ZX12R in the rev range good ol' Ryan suggests I'd be arrested and locked up and my bike would be confiscated and put in the crusher and probably be recycled into baked bean cans.

Just keep it in 1st gear 😉
(if it's still too fast, swap for a bigger rear sprocket 😜)