That looks pretty good... You now have considerably more tire to fender clearance than stock. Is there still enough clearance above the fender if suspension bottoms out?

 

We checked that before mounting the fender, no problems.

Gary

 

I've seen JDrocks bike it looks awesome imo ( i put a pic of it under "Naked Versys Pics", after the black one) ..i'm assuming thats a rear tire you have used on the front, is that an issue at all?
also any chance of a close up on the extender fender post thingamedoodad?
cheers

 

I don't think that the rear tire on the front is an issue, jdrocks says to expect 12,000 miles on the 130/80 (he is the expert on this set up). Scott made the front fender riser from 1 inch by 1/8 inch aluminum bar. Hope this helps.

Gary

 

Hi everyone! This is great info! I'm looking at new tires in about 2k miles and I'd really like to have the 130 rear up front. Doing some quick research leaves me with a question.... Does the rear tire have to be mounted backwards from the directional arrow if it's installed in the front?
Any help is greatly apprecited!!
Phil

 

When you mount a "rear type tire" on the front, you will obtain more braking traction if you reverse mount the tire.

The reason for this is - the tread in a rear type tire has a V type pattern in it. When mounted correctly on the rear wheel, the V points to the rear (when on the ground). When you open the throttle, the point of this V digs into the dirt, which gives you more traction, which allows you to accellerate forward. Farm tractor tires work the same way, just check one out next time you see one.

When you put a "rear type" tire on the front wheel, there is no need for it to provide traction to accellerate, since your front wheel is not connected to your engine. But, at times, the front wheel is needed to slow your bike down. It can best do that (in the dirt) by having the point of the V in the tread (on the ground) pointing forward. And in order to do that, you end up installing it as "reverse rotation" as shown on the sidewall.

You can install it however you like though. Its your choice.

S'ok?

 

Thanks JD!! I was reading another thread that was suggesting mounting it reversed, which didn't make much sense to me. Anyway, I think I have all I need from all of your previous posts! Much appreciated for a rookie, such as myself!!!!

 

Shoot, sorry, one last question. I love the look of the Tourances, but I won't be doing much dirt riding. Probably just once a month or so when I visit my bro in the mountains. How are these tires on regular pavement, dry and wet?
Thanks!

 

JD,
I have 21,514 miles on the front Tourance, I agree there in so reason to reverse these tires, I'm now thinking I could see 30,000 miles on it. I got 11,400 miles on my first rear Tourance, the second one has made it to 10,000 miles but I have to replace it soon. I found a rear Trailwing at Dakar Motors here in Buenos Aires http://www.dakarmotos.com/ I may have to buy it if I can't find a Tourance.
I need your expertise, I know I just said there is no reason to reverse the tire, 20,000+ miles proves that but I am starting to see some cupping. What do you think about reversing the front tire to counteract the cupping? It is just a thought. I'm heading back to Chile then back up to Lima in a few days.

Gary

 

I actually have a brand new set of these on a shelf in my garage. I'm just waiting to wear out the current sneakers and these are going on.

I agree and understand what trialsguy is saying about the directional forces placed on the tire by reverse-mounting the rear tire on the front of the bike.

However, by mounting it backwards, I would be more concerned as to how the "V type" pattern in the tire contacts the road and disperses water in wet riding. I would guess that mounting the tire backwards would more likely pull water to the center of the tire instead of dispersing it to the outside, causing loss of traction, or even hydroplaning. I think I'll mount it going the normal direction as I know I will be riding in all sorts of weather this year.

Curse them for making such a great tire in the wrong sizes. There would be a lot of happy V and Tiger riders out there if they just did a 17 in front. I guess we'll go on unnoticed to them unless we have this on the side of our tanks.....

 

That is ONE!!! serious front tyre there!!!! WOW...

 

Thanks JD, that is good advice, I did find a rear Tourance today for $271 at the BMW shop in Buenos Aires, I'll install it later, will try and get another 500 miles on the one I have now.

Gary

 

Also, for the Versys Forum members out there in keyboard-land - keep in mind that this entire forum is just a collection of personal opinions, personal observations, ideas, advice and anecdotal evidence.

Take whatever information you think you can safely use, and leave the rest.

And if you see a video of a guy on a website, doing a wheelie at 80 mph down a crowded interstate highway, you alone can decide if that would be something that you would want to do too.

 

Has anyone here run the 150/70 rear tire with a rear hugger? I'm guessing that a 160/60 and a 150/70 have the same rolling diameter so it shouldn't be a problem? Any sort of handling deficiencies with replacing the 160/60 rear tyre with a 150/70? Any less grip?

 

x2 on the hugger, does the Tourance work ok with a hugger on roads?? Of course mud would be a problem with the hugger with any tires.

 

How many miles do you have ...

BMW Motorrad produced 87,306 motorcycles in 2009,[1] compared with 104,220 in 2008.[2] The most popular model is the R1200GS and its sibling Adventure, which sold 24,467 units – accounting for 28% of BMW's annual production.

So, in 2009 alone there were 24,467 GS's sold. Assume similar sales for the past 6 years (which is probably a low estimate, based on the 16% drop in sales from '08 to '09), that's 146,802 GSs riding around out there with the front tire mounted this way. So assume each bike averages about 4,000 miles per year for an average of 3 years (for this group) that's 146,802 bikes X 4,000 miles each year X 3 years = 1,761,624,000 collective miles or 1.76 billion miles! There have been no tire mounting related recalls on these bikes in that time period, over all those miles.

1) ^ a b "BMW Motorcycle Sales for 2009 and Prospects for 2010". webBikeWorld.com. 5 February 2010. http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-news/2010/2009-bmw-motorcycle-sales.htm. Retrieved 18 February 2010.

2) ^ a b "Annual Report 2008" (PDF). BMW Group. http://www.bmwgroup.com/annualreport2008/_downloads/BMW_Group_2008.pdf. Retrieved 10 January 2010.

 

Also, if you are still not sure, you can ask any competent, experienced motorcycle mechanic which direction the treads should point on the front tire, and he will give you the same answer.

That doen't mean it won't work the other way, it just means that you will get better performance with the V pointed to the front.

 

Nope, and nope. :cheers:

 

For the past several years I have been reversing the rear tire on my Trials bike about every 6 months, until it wears out, to get extra life out of it. It is a tubeless radial competition trials tire. It has the usual "rotation arrow" on the sidewall. I have had no bad effects running it in reverse rotation. The tread on trials tires are symetrical. When I reverse the tire, I obtain the benefit of the now sharper leading edge on the knobs of the tire. Admittedly, I've not ridden this tire at high speed for long distances though.

 

I just email the Metzler Corporation and asked them if it is safe to mount a "rear" Tourance on the front of a Versys, in "reverse rotation". I will post their answer when I get it.

 

I just emailed the Metzler Corporation and asked them if it is safe to mount a "rear" Tourance on the front of a Versys, in "reverse rotation". I will post their answer when I get it.

Here is the official reply from Metzler on the Tourance - It appears they do not recommend either mounting the tire in reverse rotation, nor mounting a rear tire on the front wheel.

***************************
From: Metzeler B2C Moto, US [sa.motobc01us@pirelli.com]
Sent: Fri 3/12/2010 8:17 AM

Subject: tourance tire - rear mounted on front

Hello
One should never run a tire backwards. The exception to this rule is if the tire is marked (at the sidewall arrow) as a dual rotation tire. This happens typically only with scooter tires but virtually never with a motorcycle tire.

Tire's have a tread pattern and tread cap (compound) orientation that is important to the safe handling of the application and by running the tire backwards one could help fester a future problem with the tire. Then one should note that the construction differences between a front and rear tire are radically different in material, shape, and compound so this too could have a negative effect on the handling of the bike. The last thing to look at is the possibility of uneven wear when the tire is used backwards. Thanks for the question and have a great day.

NA Metzeler Consumer Affairs
877 202-4993
www.us.metzelermoto.com

-----Original Message-----
Country of interest: United States of America Current Site: METZELER US
Sent: Thursday, March 11, 2010 6:33 PM
Subject: tourance tire - rear mounted on front
Message:
Hello - I ride an '08 Kawazaki Versys 650. It has 17" wheels. I would like to mount a "rear" tourance tire on my 17" front rim. In order to get the tread to "point" the correct way I have to install the tire in "reverse rotation". Is it safe to do this? Thanks."

**************************

Given this information, I plan to keep the Dunlop RoadSmarts on my V. And when I want to ride in the dirt, I will ride my Gas Gas 280 TXT. (I've decided that dancing in the dirt with a 440 lb top heavy bike is not for me).

 

Is there a difference in construction of the tire for a front and rear tire? I'm guessing there is, otherwise they would just have different sizes, without specifying whether it is a front or a rear tire?

 

Jdrocks: the email did mention differences between a front and rear tyre, and that you shouldn't put a rear tyre on the front, in any direction. Isn't that particular size tourance a rear?

 

Then one should note that the construction differences between a front and rear tire are radically different in material, shape, and compound

I know what you mean about the email jumping back and forth, but it does note that front and rear tires are different, and thus they don't recommend swapping a front and rear tire. Of course, like you said it might just be a liability thing and not that the tire won't work (as has been proven - it *does* work), but I suppose it would be nice to know what the actual differences are, to know really what *could* go wrong with running a rear tire on the front. If anything at all I would think that it may be worse running a front tire on the rear, since the rear tire is under a lot more stress (accelerating, braking AND cornering)? Or maybe the only difference is the tire profile, in which case it may just be a case of strange or less-than-ideal handling (which can be noted and compensated for)? Or maybe it's tire thread, although it looks the same?

 

Hi everyone,
I'm finally getting everything together for this mod, and have a quick question on the brake line. With raising the fender, can I simply add a longer crossover line (7"?), or do I need to replace the entire brake line assembly ?
Thanks!

 

You can do that, or you can run 2 lines up to the master by swapping the banjo bolts between the master and RH caliper. You need the longer one up top because the double banjos will be there instead of on the caliper.

 

Hi, Greatings from Wales, UK.

I have only just got a V but was wondering why you guys are using the 130/80as opposed to the 120/90 tourance ??...

Looking forward to your replies.

P.S. JD - am really liking your work with these bikes...awesome.

 

I've never seen the 120/90-17 for sale from a US dealer. Motorcycle Superstore doesn't list them nor do the other couple sites I checked real quickly.

 

Kimel - just double checked and metzler UK list it here

http://www.metzelermoto.co.uk/web/c...atalog/moto/EnduroStreet_Tourance.xml&menu_item=/products/catalog/enduro_street

It is also listed by several UK suppliers. Maybe as you say it is not imported to the USA.

I gues my question was would the 120 width be better as it is stock width??

 

Installed mine over the weekend.

These things definitely take some getting used to.
You have to sort of muscle it into the corners. I've had larger tires up front before, but this one is much more noticable. Counter-steering isn't as intuitive, anymore - not just a simple shift of your body.

Also, once it's in a lean, it wants to fall over. To the inside. Feels like the tire is pyramid-shaped or something. It wants to turn VERY tight into the corners. Like, instant-high-side tight.

Basically, you have to strong-arm it to get it to lean. And, once it does lean, you have to strong-arm it back up from falling or slipping to the inside. And, it happens QUICK!

Tire pressure is at 32 psi, for commuting. The highway distance heats up the tire and raises pressure up to 35..36 maybe. The higher pressure helps longevity. At lower PSI (28), the initial turn-in is slower and requires more steering input. But, once it's in the corner...like I said, it REALLY wants to turn tight. The higher pressure helps, but VERY slightly. Plus, the higher the pressure, the less grip.
External lead balancing weights. Spacers, axles, retaining screw and such all correctly torqued.


Edit:
Not trying to blast the tire. Just a warning - NOT RECOMMENDED FOR NEW RIDERS!
If you're in the UK, and can get the 120... definitely get it instead of the 130. The extra height is squirrely.

 

Thanks for the report...good stuff. I'm glad I went the route I did (scorp trails). I only did about 10 miles of dirt last weekend and they are very confidence inspiring. On the road they are better than the stock dunlops, handling is very neutral, solid.

If they are heating up that much you are probably starting too low. Consider trying them at 35F and 40R cold and see how that does.

 

Oooooh no, I never start that high, cold.

I hit my highway commute route within a mile. I like them to warm up to the mid-30's just as I get on the highway. Then, just a wee bit more during the route.


They're growing on me, pretty quick.
Just wanted to warn the Newbies (which I still consider myself, after 2 years) -- might wanna steer clear.
(like they'll listen....)

 

Research my friend...
That's what the bimmer riders use. Since you're about a hundred pounds lighter then maybe drop a couple of pounds. I would still say to try them at 40R and 36F and see how they do. It's reported they grip just as well, run cooler, and handle better. Lower pressure for off-pavement, 25R and 20F. Possibly even less if you're not carrying a lot of weight.

Most are running too little air in their tires anyway, then complain about wear. The factory rubber balloon tires are 32/37. Some brands recommend higher pressures regardless of factory spec.