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Yeah, I was really confused that Wilbers called for a 195mm air gap and Kawasaki says 63mm (left fork). My retailer (BeemerShop) as equally confused. They called Wilbers, who also couldn't explain the extreme difference. I discovered that the difference was parts-out (Wilbers) vs parts-in (Kawasaki) when measuring.
 

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Hyperpro specifies:

Left fork: 180 mm air gap without spring
Right fork: 60 mm air gap

OEM Gen 3 650:

Left fork: 63 to 65 mm with spring, etc.
Right fork: 43 to 45 mm air gap
 

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If I don't have to change the fork seals do I need to disassemble the forks to change the fork oil?

I found this video


where the guy drains the fork oil by just removing the forks from the bike and unscrewing the top cap. He uses brake cleaner to clean the forks. Is this recommended or a bad idea?

He also doesn't seem to use a compression tool when disassembles the forks to replace the seals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
If I don't have to change the fork seals do I need to disassemble the forks to change the fork oil?
Pretty much necessary to disassemble them.
 

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When you're replacing the fork oil (I use ATF from Walmart) be aware that IF you let go of the damper-rod, oil WILL squirt out the top in DIRECT relation to the speed it was falling at...:cool:

I read this thread again like 2 weeks ago and just started my forks today. I knew I should have read it again. Got a nice face full of oil today :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well, AT LEAST the "quote" came back to mind for you while you watched the damper-rod disappear into the tube....

;)
 

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Well, I had luck getting my left fork apart, and getting the spring replaced. Here's a pic of the tool I had welded up. The black nut is a truck lug nut that's 33mm outside diameter. The silver-colored nut it's welded to is 1.25" diameter. The 33mm side is the side that drops into that female nut, called a rod guide case. I had about 2mm shaved off the end to get rid of the rounded corners so that it seats well.

To the left you can see I have an extra nut of each. If anyone wants them, you can have them for my cost (about $4) + postage.

There's one weird thing I noticed regarding fork oil level. I have a hard copy of the factory manual that says to measure the air gap with an empty fork. Then, I have an e-copy of the same manual that says to measure the air gap with the spring, spring seat, adjuster guide rod and rebound spring all installed. The e-copy is correct. The 473 mL fill gives the correct air gap when you measure the oil level with these parts installed.

You always measure the air gap without spring.
 

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Forgot to post a pic of how I got my front end up, hope it helps someone. Threw it up on the paddock stands, then slid two stacks of 4x4s under it and put some Jack stands under it, they fit perfectly under my crash bars. Removed the paddock stand and had plenty of room to pull the front end apart. Like $8 in lumber. Just had a 8ft 4x4 cut into 8 pieces.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Rim
 
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