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Replacing the 'clutch-return-spring'

6.3K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  fasteddiecopeman  
#1 ·
I mentioned replacing my clutch-cable a little while ago, and mentioned that I needed to replace the clutch-return-spring TOO, which I found out as I was attaching the lower cable end, as an end was broken-off.

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As I have a SERVICE MANUAL I looked for guidance there BEFORE getting into the job, and this is what I found:

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Looking at the MANUAL I saw the "NOTICE" [Do not remove the clutch release lever and shaft assembly unless it is absolutely necessary.]

I was at a loss as to HOW to REMOVE the broken spring and put the NEW spring on UNLESS I removed the "Release Shaft" first, so I DRAINED THE OIL and removed the MANY bolts holding the clutch-cover to the engine, but BEFORE I could do that I needed to remove my SW-Motech 'skid-plate' and loosen my SW-Motech 'crash-bars' to access SOME of those MANY bolts!

I was getting ready to remove the clutch-cover.... As I looked at the "Release Shaft", I discovered that I could rotate it thru a bit OVER 90 degrees, and thought - "Maybe I can just pull the shaft out vertically W/OUT disturbing anything behind the clutch-cover...", so I moved the lever close to where I remembered it being during 'normal operations', and EASILY pulled it out vertically.

I was VERY PLEASED when I discovered that NOTHING ELSE came out w/ the shaft, and it was just a minutes' work to remove the broken spring and replace it w/ the NEW one (making sure that the new one went in the proper way!), then GENTLY push the shaft back down the hole in the clutch-cover.

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Then I attached the lower end of the clutch-cable, noticing that the "Release Shaft" NOW would move thru a bigger arc than it had before, then attached the other end to the clutch lever. The lower end would STILL move thru a bigger arc, but I HOPED it was OK...!

As I hadn't removed (or disturbed) the cover, I put the MANY small bolts back in, then torqued them to the proper tension, and filled the engine w/ oil as before. I started the engine and tried the clutch lever, and changing gears, but figured I needed to get the cable adjusted AT LEAST CLOSE TO THE PROPER amount, which I did on the lower adjusters using two 8mm open-end wrenches, then re-started the engine and tried shifting (on the paddock-stand of course!), and ALL felt NORMAL!!! Then shut the engine down.

NOW I needed to re-attach the SW-Motech 'crash-bars', as they include the rear engine-mount, so I got onto THAT, and once EVERYTHING looked right I replaced all the fairings that I'd removed to do this job,

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then went for a ride, looking for anything that didn't 'feel right' or was leaking.

YIPPEE! ALL was good, so I continued on a half-hour ride (w/ my heated grips set at LEVEL THREE - mid-range), and planned to write this up so it MIGHT help someone else w/ a similar issue...!

:cool:

(y)(y)
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
...If you had broken the clutch cable and wanted to operate the clutch with some contraption (any way you want, hands, feet, knees, elbows..), what would you do?...
As I VERY seldom shift using the clutch lever, AND AS LONG AS I WAS OUT OF THE CITY - hopefully I could get some people to push me (engine RUNNING), then shift into gear and work my way home.

The ONLY other time I broke a clutch-cable on BIG RED was around 50,000 miles ago. I ALWAYS carry a spare so I changed it at a parking lot.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Nice write-up... I'm going to go inspect my spring.
FWIW - I had NO hint that the cable was 'stiff' or going to 'break'. I was VERY glad it happened JUST as I was exiting my garage...!

The "spring"? I can't say whether I mishandled it while taking the bottom cable-end off the "Release Shaft", or it was broken when the cable LET GO....