[stagehand38]

OK fellas,
I just got done testing the faulty buttons on the dash after the CRC fix.
Happy to confirm that the spray did the trick:yeahsmile::yeahsmile::yeahsmile:

Gotta love it......I feel like I can do anything I set my mind to with this bike...along with a little help from my friends
Love you guyspenarms:

Off to the hardware for some proper screw and nuts etc so i can toss those hideous plastic thingies that hold the black dash trim together.

...to be continued:cheers:
UPDATE:
Zeph!!!! your CRC spray is a miracle!!! CLOCK BUTTONS WORKING FINE.
The bikes back together...with...new stainless hardware for the "IP" surround TOO
Thanks "Zeph", Thanks "Versys forum".penarms:

 

[panamafrog]

It looks like I'll be needing to take the gauge unit apart and do the spray fix myself. At around 7300 miles, I received a new gauge unit under warranty when my mode button got to the point that it wouldn't work at all. The shop installed it at no cost to me.

I'm about 3K on the new one now and the reset button is now acting up. I've already got one sticky on my handlebar riser with the original mileage, I don't think I want another.

Come to think about, we did have 3 & 1/2 days of rain on our 5 & 1/2 day trip in September and some of this was of the frog strangler variety.

Frog

 

[stagehand38]

FYI....I did it...and if you knew me...well, if I can do it anyone can...LOLOL

 

[rcfield]

rubber button

A little armoral for lubrication around the edge of the button...then with a thin, smooth object, (thin teaspoon or similar) slip it under the lip of button, press to the center to narrow it sideways and pry up

The rubber cap has a groove in the edge that locates it in the dash panel

reverse to install

DON,T DROP IT !

 

[QtrLitre]

Cleaner didn't work for me reset button was working maybe once in 6 tries, cleaner made it not work at all. Thought i could live without it, that lasted about a day [I use trip A for gas and trip B for lube or miles on real long trips] really like that feature wish my sportbike had two. I could live without the time but that was irritating too [it being wrong and all]

So I did a board level repair [I have a degree in electronics what the hell its only a $395 part on bikebandit lol ] works like a charm now. It is basic board you can clearly see the connection the button is closing. just solder a wire to one of each set. Drill the smallest hole you can in the center of the case with it assembled and buy a serial cable to cut up and use the really small wires out of. Also leave some strain relief in the case. You want a momentary normally open pushbutton.

sorry the pics are a bit blurry [cheap camera]

 

[6272]

I did a board level repair.. You want a momentary normally open pushbutton.

I would recommend a waterproof switch for that location. Looks good! :thumb:

Also, some people have actually wired up the mode switch to the flash to pass button at the left trigger finger as well.

 

[Doctor Shifty]

Is there a similar fix for the reset button???

The reset button will probably be the same circuit board configuration as the mode button, but I didn't look at it. So I imagine it's easy enough to solder a pair of wires to the back of the board and run them to an external switch.

Use very fine wire so it doesn't take much heat from the soldering iron, otherwise the switch wafers on the other side of the board can heat up and dislodge.

There are some blanked off holes in the back of the dash panel unit. It's easy to drill one so the wires can run through it, then hotmelt glue over it to seal it. Leave some slack in the cable inside the unit so the case can be split easily.

 

[Doctor Shifty]

Stop worrying about the clock on your motorcycle:

Best quote from The Wild Hogs,

Thanks for the quote, but I've already done it.

I took off my wrist watch almost 40 years ago and have not worn one since. However, I have clients and meetings in various parts of the city each day and I need to be on time. The clock on the bike (or the car if I'm driving that day) is part of my work life.

I also have to keep track of distance covered, so I also need the odometer. Clicking between them sounds simple, but those little buttons are annoying with the multiple click-through that is needed to cycle the range of functions just to keep track of two that I need. The high beam flasher mod makes it easy.

Ironically, in my state, flashing your headlights is a traffic offense. So the original function is not needed.

 

[Doctor Shifty]

@OP: does the PASS button still trip the high beams? If so, be cautious when you flip from mode to mode so you don't give some cager or pedestrian the idea that you're flashing to offer them the right of way.

The high beam wiring is cut to make the mod. The main reason is that connecting a live 12v feed to the rear of the printed circuit board of the dash is not a good idea. I cut the wires inside the switch block, they can be easily joined up again if needed.

See my previous point about flashing your high beam in this state being a traffic offense.

There is also the confusion of what another driver means by the flashing.

 

[Pumpaljka]

Instrument Cluster/ Repair/ Mode-Reset Button

I had issue with my two buttons, first was Reset and later Mode button, and I was looking for the pictures on internet to help me solve this problem.

Someone was suggesting to just take the rubber cover on the top of buttons, but I decided to do it properly.

After removing all plastic fairings I have removed those two screws and one on the right side where is tank for coolant.

After that should be removed those 2 x 10mm screws and 3 Philips screws.

Then remove all these little ones and open the speedometer, gently...

Use the air duster and later on electronic cleaning solvent

On these holes....

And I have decided to use some isolation plastic from old car wirings instead of plastic straws (suggested somewhere else), they should be shorter then press buttons, AND PUT A LOT OF WD40!(or something else) to prevent them to get dry which will cause button to jam. (DO NOT SPRAY WD-40 ON ELECTRIC BOARD AND SWITCHES!!!! JUST LUBRICATE WHATEVER YOU HAVE DECIDED TO PUT INSIDE)

Last thing before putting all back is to put front screen back and test how everything works. Red scale position is in "idle" and green scale position is when the button is pressed...

Hope those pictures make your life easier.

Good Luck!

 

[Lours_Polaire]

That's nice work !

Can't read your multimeter because the pic isn't as clear has I need it to be but,
If it's "idle" you should read nothing, I think
Since those button are either open circuit (button depressed) or close (pressed)

Maybe I'm confuse about something here ...



LOP

 

[Pumpaljka]

Hello Lours_Polaire, in "idle" mode it is not open circuit, I´ve got something about 50-60 Ohms. On pressed mode scale went to 0 Ohms, like it should be.

Thanks for support m8. :cheers:

 

[Mt. Versuvius]

Thanks for posting that up. The trip reset button on my bike is stuck. I just kind of gave up on it and started writing mileage down in a little book, but I think I'll take the cluster apart and see what can be done. Cheers.

Doug

 

[Baron650]

I've had mine apart twice with no joy. The Mode button works but the reset does not. Without an accurate fuel gauge this would be a major inconvenience. With my V, it's only a minor one. If that's that's the only part to fail in 38000 miles, I'm OK with that.

 

[Lours_Polaire]

Hello Lours_Polaire, in "idle" mode it is not open circuit, I´ve got something about 50-60 Ohms. On pressed mode scale went to 0 Ohms, like it should be.

Thanks for support m8. :cheers:

Where do you connect your probe ?

On one side of the switch connector, it's ground (#1), on the other side it's + (#2)

Putting a probe on ground anywhere on the bike and the other probe on one of the button connector, you should find 0 ohm
Leaving your the first probe same place, putting the other probe on the opposite connector of the buton, you should find "open" circuit

This according to my own logic and not based on actual mesurement I have taken

Again, maybe I'm missing something here and you or someone else could enlight me ...

But in the end, what's realy important, is that you have resolve the problem of the faulty button !!


LOP

 

[Pumpaljka]

Where do you connect your probe ?

Testing pins for measuring should be here on "red" and "green" arrows

 

[DustyOne]

Great post Pumpa.....and the pics help greatly to show the details of yr work

I personally have not had the unit apart, so commenting about the buttons and the electronics is difficult for me

However, I can say this:
While wd-40 is a super lubricant when utilized in the right situations,
It should not be used in electrical applications.

For instance, in this case, if the switch is totaly enclosed and a lubricant is needed, wd-40 would be a great choice as long as it cannot seep out of the switch to contact any electrical part or any electrical connection.
wd-40 sprayed on electrical connections or electrical switches = BAD :devil:

 

[fasteddiecopeman]

...wd-40 sprayed on electrical connections or electrical switches = BAD :devil:

FIRST time I remember using WD40 was in an enduro in eastern Ontario, probably 1978, in rain. Going over (through...?) a stone fence the points-cover on my TT500 got smashed and the bike stopped as the rain soaked the points.

A buddy handed me a can of WD40 and said to 'soak' the points, which I did, but I couldn't see how THAT would get it going. Kicked it over, it STARTED! :thumb:
Was then able to ride to where the cars were parked to get it home. Made me a believer...!

 

[DustyOne]

FIRST time I remember using WD40 was in an enduro in eastern Ontario, probably 1978, in rain. Going over (through...?) a stone fence the points-cover on my TT500 got smashed and the bike stopped as the rain soaked the points.

A buddy handed me a can of WD40 and said to 'soak' the points, which I did, but I couldn't see how THAT would get it going. Kicked it over, it STARTED! :thumb:
Was then able to ride to where the cars were parked to get it home. Made me a believer...!

Yes, wd40 definitely has it's uses
And yes, it can be used to help all kinds of immediate needs

But as time goes by, it is bad forelectrical switches, contacts, and other connection type of items.

People have been using wd40 for years on these items, and the still continue to do so.

A while back, do not remember how many years, but a while. Itcame out the this chemical is not recommended on those electrical type uses I have mentioned.

And there was a lot of resistance......still is.

However, I believe that wd40 has come out and finally acknkwledged that using the regular blue can product on electrical is not recommended.

I do not k now if they did this because they finally accepted the past research, or if it was the fact that they now have released several other sub-products of wd40 that have been developed for other specific uses :yeahsmile:

Now come on now eddie.....you know that if you spray your wd40 on everything electrical THAT YOU NEVER WILL HAVE ENOUGH to bathe your chains in the manner they have grown so accustomed to :funnypost:

 

[Holden]

Last weekend I took my speedo apart. I tore off a small piece of aluminum foil and smashed it into a tiny, flat piece that I dropped into the hole where the reset button resides. I did the same for the mode button. The goal was to raise the profiles of those buttons, which are buried too deep into those holes. Then the little rubber rods on the undersides of the rubber button covers can push harder on the buttons. It seems to have worked.