oxford heated grips and twinshacks carbon hugger
SEE Fuze for more info on wiring etc.
SEE Fuze for more info on wiring etc.
Excellent Ed, when you have time could you post some photos of your install, I am sure there have been enough knowledgeable people on this forum to confirm the OEM grips just suck and are overpriced , I like the fact that the controller is part of the grip, frees up real estate for other things, also thanks to Weljo for the original post and being the guinea pig for testing them:thumb::thumb::thumb:I received a set of KOSO Apollo heated grips for Christmas, but I realized that my bars were 'slightly' tweaked from a low-side I had back in '09 (I know, I KNOW - HOW can it take THAT long to realize that there's a DIFFERENCE left-to-right...?:huh:...), measured at 7/8" a few days ago (left side HIGH), so I decided that yesterday was to be the DAY to change bars, then install the KOSOs, as the weather here in S AZ was forecast to be "crappers".
I have ZETA handguards, as well as the 'usual' stuff on my 'bars, so I started at 0930, removing the various fairings, windscreen (and the mount, to give it a "rattle-can" paint update), seat and gas-tank, then measured everything around the handlebars as well as I could so as to get the new(ER) bars installed CLOSE to the same position. Got everything OFF, then the tweaked 'bars OFF, new(ER) 'bars ON, then 'reversed-course' w/ all the stuff I'd just removed. Got it all pretty much as it had been, then cut off the OEM grip from the throttle, and checked-out the fit of the KOSO. It was DEFINITELY gonna be 'tight', so I got some dish soap and 220 grit sand-paper to 'smooth-out' the left-side handle-bar, and the plastic throttle-tube. Once they were really smooth I 'soaped-up' the left, then GENTLY pushed the KOSO in just a LITTLE bit, as it's VERY tough to do that, then realized that it was going to be a BIT of a challenge.
I grabbed a rubber mallet, soaped-up the 'bar and the INSIDE of the grip looking for the best orientation for installation (I could pretty much see that IF and WHEN I got it ON, there'd be NO way to rotate it, even a LITTLE), took a deep breath, pushing it ON as far as I could (maybe an inch?) then WHACKING it w/ the mallet! Several whacks later I had it just shy of the light/ turn-sigs switches, and knew that THAT is where it's gonna stay!
Now I knew how, I went to the right-side, lubed-up everything w/ soap, checked for orientation, then began whacking. After several that one was also (permanently!!!) installed. Now to wire it.
I ran the left-side wires alongside the other wire-bundle to the left of the steering-head, then back around the steering-stem to under where the gas-tank mounts, and the right-side wires similarly on the right of the steering-head, to join the others behind the steering-stem (there's a joint in the left-right wiring there), then carefully routed them along the right side of the frame, past the battery and rear brake master and OEM tools, then routed the + to my FUZEBLOCK, the - to a convenient ground, altho' I FIRST touched the + and - wires to the battery to ensure I DID have continuity.
I re-installed ALL the body-work (now it was 1530), then 'retired' to the house for a ...:cheers:..., planning a ride to Mass this AM to 'check-out' the grips and my install, as forecast was around freezing at 0630.
Suited-up, including my heated jacket-liner, but wearing fairly light gloves, I hit-the-road at 0630, grips on "4", for the 10 mile ride.
LOVE the grips...:loveeyes:...! They are larger in diameter (1.4" vs 1.27" on the OEM ones) which takes a bit of 'getting-use-to', plus I ride w/ two fingers covering the brake and clutch levers, so those fingers got COLD until I gripped my whole hand around the grip. My experience is that BOTH got to the same heat-level, so I'll get a set for the GREEN HORNET TOO in BC.
:thumb: - :thumb:
I received a set of KOSO Apollo heated grips for Christmas, but I realized that my bars were 'slightly' tweaked from a low-side I had back in '09 (I know, I KNOW - HOW can it take THAT long to realize that there's a DIFFERENCE left-to-right...?:huh:...), measured at 7/8" a few days ago (left side HIGH), so I decided that yesterday was to be the DAY to change bars, then install the KOSOs, as the weather here in S AZ was forecast to be "crappers".
I have ZETA handguards, as well as the 'usual' stuff on my 'bars, so I started at 0930, removing the various fairings, windscreen (and the mount, to give it a "rattle-can" paint update), seat and gas-tank, then measured everything around the handlebars as well as I could so as to get the new(ER) bars installed CLOSE to the same position. Got everything OFF, then the tweaked 'bars OFF, new(ER) 'bars ON, then 'reversed-course' w/ all the stuff I'd just removed. Got it all pretty much as it had been, then cut off the OEM grip from the throttle, and checked-out the fit of the KOSO. It was DEFINITELY gonna be 'tight', so I got some dish soap and 220 grit sand-paper to 'smooth-out' the left-side handle-bar, and the plastic throttle-tube. Once they were really smooth I 'soaped-up' the left, then GENTLY pushed the KOSO in just a LITTLE bit, as it's VERY tough to do that, then realized that it was going to be a BIT of a challenge.
I grabbed a rubber mallet, soaped-up the 'bar and the INSIDE of the grip looking for the best orientation for installation (I could pretty much see that IF and WHEN I got it ON, there'd be NO way to rotate it, even a LITTLE), took a deep breath, pushing it ON as far as I could (maybe an inch?) then WHACKING it w/ the mallet! Several whacks later I had it just shy of the light/ turn-sigs switches, and knew that THAT is where it's gonna stay!
Now I knew how, I went to the right-side, lubed-up everything w/ soap, checked for orientation, then began whacking. After several that one was also (permanently!!!) installed. Now to wire it.
I ran the left-side wires alongside the other wire-bundle to the left of the steering-head, then back around the steering-stem to under where the gas-tank mounts, and the right-side wires similarly on the right of the steering-head, to join the others behind the steering-stem (there's a joint in the left-right wiring there), then carefully routed them along the right side of the frame, past the battery and rear brake master and OEM tools, then routed the + to my FUZEBLOCK, the - to a convenient ground, altho' I FIRST touched the + and - wires to the battery to ensure I DID have continuity.
I re-installed ALL the body-work (now it was 1530), then 'retired' to the house for a ...:cheers:..., planning a ride to Mass this AM to 'check-out' the grips and my install, as forecast was around freezing at 0630.
Suited-up, including my heated jacket-liner, but wearing fairly light gloves, I hit-the-road at 0630, grips on "4", for the 10 mile ride.
LOVE the grips...:loveeyes:...! They are larger in diameter (1.4" vs 1.27" on the OEM ones) which takes a bit of 'getting-use-to', plus I ride w/ two fingers covering the brake and clutch levers, so those fingers got COLD until I gripped my whole hand around the grip. My experience is that BOTH got to the same heat-level, so I'll get a set for the GREEN HORNET TOO in BC.
:thumb: - :thumb:
As did I, a 27mm impact socket.Along with the soapy water i used a large deep socket to hit with the mallet to get the grips on with when they started to get hard to slide on...:nerd:
I just used super glue.......a lot of itI didn't use enough glue on the clutch side/ I twisted it before 24 hours was up so I think I broke the glue bond and now it rotates a little when warm. Does anyone have recommendations for good glue? I had some oxford stuff left but it is prob dried out by now...
Does anyone (weljo...?) have an idea of HOW to rotate the Apollo grips once they've been installed? :huh:
I'd like to rotate the left grip about 10 degrees or so, but it ain't the end-of-the-world IF I can't.:thanx:
did you glue them on? if not just grab it and turn it....if they are glued then just grab it really good and turn it...Does anyone (weljo...?) have an idea of HOW to rotate the Apollo grips once they've been installed? :huh:
I'd like to rotate the left grip about 10 degrees or so, but it ain't the end-of-the-world IF I can't.:thanx:
No, I didn't glue them, but they are ON! Could NOT turn them when I tried, but...did you glue them on? if not just grab it and turn it....if they are glued then just grab it really good and turn it.......
I'll give Glen's suggestion a try.I would suggest to run at maximum for 5 minutes , let it warm up, if you have those really good silicone oven mitts, use two hands, you want the maximum surface area, the rest is self explanatory:goodluck:
I tried this yesterday at the end of a 200 miler (it was ALREADY HOT - 80F), so I turned them ON to the hottest level about 5 minutes from home. Got there, didn't even get off my seat, just reached up w/ BOTH hands (in riding gloves) and using a fair amount of force - turned my left grip the 10 degrees I needed!I would suggest to run at maximum for 5 minutes , let it warm up, if you have those really good silicone oven mitts, use two hands, you want the maximum surface area, the rest is self explanatory:goodluck:
I installed a relay, however according to Oxford that isn't required, what it does is monitor the voltage, any drop below a certain voltage it shuts off, for instance, hit your kill switch while the bike is running, it will be within 6 seconds turning off. I question why the dealer hooked up the grips directly to the battery?? If that is what they did, as there is sufficient power available from the auxiliary switched circuit. Only drawback to a direct connection to the battery is you could turn on the grips , they would work, until the voltage dropped below the threshold of minimum voltage around 12.3 VDC ( guessing at this), they would then shut off and remain off no matter how many times you tried to turn on. The second drawback to this is the electronics requires a ceratin amount of energy to monitor this voltage, so like your clock, it draws power, after possibly 1 year it would kill the battery:grin2:, as you know, if the bike has been sitting for a year, you should have had a tender on it or sold it>Thanks all for your help.
I had Kawasaki Heated grips installed a month ago and had problems. They were very weak in heating and they were uneven with the throttle heater being 10 degrees Fahrenheit lower than the left grip. Thanks to some help from people on the forum I had the OEM Grips removed and Oxford Premium Touring installed. They are completely even in heat and much hotter than the Kawasaki Grips. Just had them installed today.
What I don't understand is that when the bike is shut off the grips appear to stay on instead of shutting off, at least for a minute. Not sure if that is the way it is supposed to be. The box says that it will shut off when you shut off your bike and also if it goes to a low voltage on the system. I think it's functioning perfectly but I've got more to learn.
Does anyone know how it should work for Oxford when you shut off the bike?