Thanks for sharing. Looking for one and this item is long on my wanting list.

 

you are welcome. if you plan to use it only for 2 cylinder bike, 2 channels unit is slightly cheaper.

 

The one thing that I am not clear about, what the numbers on the display represent? I had 154 reading on both cylinders. Are they just arbitrary numbers?

 

This is what I got from site FAQ:-
Each digit represents 0.113 inHg. Note that there is an offset from atmospheric pressure of 2.823inHg (25 digits). That is why the gauge reads approx. "25" when the engine is not running. Please note that the actual values are not important for balancing carbs or throttle bodies. What is important is consistency (balance) between all the measurements. All the values should be within 1-digit of each other for accuracy. Doing this will ensure your machine runs at it's optimum and will likely synchronize your engine with higher accuracy than your local mechanic's tools will allow.

 

That is correct. We always tell our customers to focus on getting the numbers to match (sync). You will have the best luck with that.

However, this is a very common question. So, we are considering a software update that will display in inHg.

 

All Vacuum is measured in Hg and that will be a good direction to consider. Thanks for the update.

 

I received an email from Digi Sinc team, and 1 unit represents 0.1129 inHG which is 2.86766002 mmHg. Now that multiplied by 154 equals 441.61 mmHg. Meaning that it is higher than what is 'recommended' in manual which is around 300 mmHg. I have been told many times that this does not matter at all, and to ignore it, but it is still interesting. Any explanation for having such a high number?

When I look at the manual, it speaks about installing the air cleaner housing before doing the reading, and I have done it without the air box installed. Could that influence the reading? According to many forums I read, most do the vacuum sync with air box removed. It is also difficult to access the adjustment screws with the box on.

 

From what I recall most of us down here do the vacuum adjustment with the filtter on. Give it a go and see the difference in readings.

 

I think there is no difference. in Yamaha manual, you are supposed to do the sync without the air filter, at least this is what I read forums. Kawasaki instructions are just too anal.

 

In my photo the bike is completely together, just came back from a ride, it takes about 5 minutes from start to finish. I can then be back riding. Cost about $10 for the vacuum line and two 1/4 stainless hex bolts.

 

I am curious if there is any data showing the correlation/difference between digital vs liquid measurements. The mass of the liquid will affect the reading, as will the frequency of the pulses of vacuum vs a steady state vacuum.

Iow, there may be different readings from different types/brands of tools.

 

My readings are very close to the service manual, what is Key is the fact they are balanced. My first valve shim on the 2015 , they were off considerably, never took a photo but @Steve in Sunny Fl had a post about vacuum sync being related to tight valves. I had someone recommend I bring the vacuum lines out, I took that advice. I also purchased that expensive screw driver from Kawasaki , never had to use it.

 

having the vacuum lines seems like a neat idea. but if the sync is off, you need to take the tank off anyway. considering that i check the valves and throttle bodies every 10000km, I open the all top anyway.

 

My point was that I checked in August 2020 and found them balanced ( I was over the 10,000 KM distance, in fact I was over 20,000 KM since the last shim check), took 5 minutes. This winter I did major electrical work. Checked valve shim, replaced my chain and sprockets, air filter, oil change and filter. Built a couple triumph harnesses for a Polaris regulator more to do , on a rainy day.

 

In my tiger 800, I can just connect 'dealer tool' interface to ECU and check all that stuff on the laptop. I can even balance the throttle bodies in that way, or bleed the ABS. Why Kawasaki has not come with such a simple system?