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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bare with my ignorance here...

I've never owned a bike with fuel injection or any sort of on board computer, and I am really clueless what to do with a power commander, or if I even want the thing.

The '09 I just bought came with Yoshimura exhaust and a Power Commander Fuel Injection module. I'm not sure that I really want either of them, and I am thinking of trying to convert it back to stock. I'm not really sure what the real benefit of having these mods is? Are the just to try and squeeze a couple extra horse power out of the engine and make it sound a little different? If so, I am not really interested.

I am much more concerned about my gas mileage than how fast I can get from 0 - 60mph. Anyone have any idea how the power commander is effecting my miles per gallon?

Most importantly, if I do decide to get rid of the power commander, how do I take it off? Is there a stock module that goes in it's place that I am missing? Do I need to do some sort of remapping if I remove it?

I am thinking of posting an ad in the classifieds here to see if anyone is interested in doing some trading, but I am not even sure what to ask for.

 

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The only reason for the exhaust would be looks and weight savings & sound. The power commander is a waste of time and money.
 

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See what brand/type your Power Com is then lock on the website which should give you some thought how to remove it. You can however leave thing as they are and they dont cost you much in fuel usage cost.

Get the feel of it for sometime and then decide whether you want it or not.

:goodluck: and ride safe.

:cheers:
 

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I would set it aside for the future in case you wanna put them back in. Can't help with the un-installation process, may need guys that have done the mod to unplug that device. Or you could search the installation manual of the PC Commander and uninstall it.

Fuel Consumption depends on the mapping of the PC Commander. You could set it to fuel save, etc...flexible stuff, so that is why I say, keep it first (store it somewhere), decide later.
 

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No, you don't want them... send them to me, i'll even pay shipping! Lol j/k but on a serious note i'd give them a chance before you take them off... ride a couple hundred miles and if u really don't like em, take em off and post em in the fore sale section, or keep em in case you want to maybe put them on later. I think on the V the PC is a little bit un-necessary... i probably wouldn't buy one but if the bike came with it and the yoshi i'd prolly keep em, unless i had better plans for the cash in which i'd toss em in the for $ale section... stuff tends to go quick there :D
 

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one way to get rid of the Power Commander without removing it is to load a 0 map in it (can find it on Dyno Jets site) and then it will have no affect on the fuel mapping and the stock map takes over.....but really there easy to remove....

Dan
 

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I've been running a Power Commander for over 2 years, and like it very much. Originally, the fueling is very lean under 5000 rpm, and it affects the driveability. The PC richens it up and really improves things. If you remove it, you'll probably be disappointed with the notchy throttle response with the stock setup.

It's easy enough to remove, but you'll have to remove the gas tank and airbox to get at the wiring. It connects between the bike harness and the injectors and also between the harness and the throttle position sensor (TPS). Just disconnect the PC harness from everything and reconnect the bike harness to the injectors and the TPS. Don't mix the injector connectors up! (Do them one at a time.) Then disconnect the PC module from ground and its power source.

Then put the PC up for sale. Should be worth half of the new cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've been running a Power Commander for over 2 years, and like it very much. Originally, the fueling is very lean under 5000 rpm, and it affects the driveability. The PC richens it up and really improves things. If you remove it, you'll probably be disappointed with the notchy throttle response with the stock setup.

It's easy enough to remove, but you'll have to remove the gas tank and airbox to get at the wiring. It connects between the bike harness and the injectors and also between the harness and the throttle position sensor (TPS). Just disconnect the PC harness from everything and reconnect the bike harness to the injectors and the TPS. Don't mix the injector connectors up! (Do them one at a time.) Then disconnect the PC module from ground and its power source.

Then put the PC up for sale. Should be worth half of the new cost.
That's the info I was looking for. Thank you! I researched and downloaded everything I could about the Power Commander V. I found some install info, but I wasn't sure If I needed to do anything different to remove it.

I loaded the stock map onto the PCV and I have to say I like it a LOT better than the map that was loaded on there. I was running way to rich. It reeked of gas when it was running, and there was almost no space in between the gears. It functionally only had two gears. You put it in first gear to start moving and had to go to 6th as fast as you could. It was weird, hard to drive, and completely impractical for city driving. I am sure it was fun for whatever the previous owner had it mapped for, but it just stressed me out.

The stock map is a lot more laid back. It is perfect for me and my current driving style. I've spent the last few years on a custom Harley that was loud, impractical, and hard as a rock. I just want something comfortable and quiet.

As such, I just got my stock exhaust in the mail today. I plan to take the yoshi off this weekend, and the PCV next week. I will probably list them both here for sale or trade.

I'm looking for some engine guards and barkbusters, or an aftermarket seat.
 

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That's the info I was looking for. Thank you! I researched and downloaded everything I could about the Power Commander V. I found some install info, but I wasn't sure If I needed to do anything different to remove it.

I loaded the stock map onto the PCV and I have to say I like it a LOT better than the map that was loaded on there. I was running way to rich. It reeked of gas when it was running, and there was almost no space in between the gears. It functionally only had two gears. You put it in first gear to start moving and had to go to 6th as fast as you could. It was weird, hard to drive, and completely impractical for city driving. I am sure it was fun for whatever the previous owner had it mapped for, but it just stressed me out.

The stock map is a lot more laid back. It is perfect for me and my current driving style. I've spent the last few years on a custom Harley that was loud, impractical, and hard as a rock. I just want something comfortable and quiet.

As such, I just got my stock exhaust in the mail today. I plan to take the yoshi off this weekend, and the PCV next week. I will probably list them both here for sale or trade.

I'm looking for some engine guards and barkbusters, or an aftermarket seat.
Try one thing. Load the zero map. This effectively takes the PC out of the equation and runs the original map. See if you like it. You might just want to keep the PC running the "stock" map, which is a non factory map that fixes the lean original map. If you put the original catalyst/muffler back on, you will need to check whether the PAIR system has been disabled and reactivate it if necessary. If you haven't downloaded a copy of the shop manual, you really should. It'll make things easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Try one thing. Load the zero map. This effectively takes the PC out of the equation and runs the original map. See if you like it. You might just want to keep the PC running the "stock" map, which is a non factory map that fixes the lean original map. If you put the original catalyst/muffler back on, you will need to check whether the PAIR system has been disabled and reactivate it if necessary. If you haven't downloaded a copy of the shop manual, you really should. It'll make things easier.
I am pretty sure the zero map is what I have been running, but I will double check. I forgot about the PAIR valve mod. I hope the previous owner left it alone, but considering that I have not heard any popping on decel since I loaded the zero map, I'm going to assume it has been modded.

Nothing is ever easy. Think it will throw out an error code if I try putting the stock pipe on with the PAIR blocked?
 

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I am pretty sure the zero map is what I have been running, but I will double check. I forgot about the PAIR valve mod. I hope the previous owner left it alone, but considering that I have not heard any popping on decel since I loaded the zero map, I'm going to assume it has been modded.

Nothing is ever easy. Think it will throw out an error code if I try putting the stock pipe on with the PAIR blocked?
No, no code.
 

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PAIR adds air to the exhaust. It helps light and keep the cat going. It adds fresh air to burn off what did not burn in the combustion chamber.

IT WILL increase exhaust temp if you run the motor rich. It does help emissions, it does not cost in HP or any other way.

I don't think it will matter either way. Stock exhaust will not pop on decell because the gas is burned in the cat.

My bike is bone stock. I DID adjust the TPS, but within specs.

David
 

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You can get a pc3 pretty cheap and there are several maps to try. Finding the right one is fun actually. You only need a slip on though, a full system makes no difference in hp on this bike. The stock header breathes really good already, that's what my tuner guy said. Slip on $200, pc3 $200, maps free, hp gained, about 8 or 9, at least for me anyway. Big difference in performance, front end is very light when on the gas and front wheel comes up too easy! If you don't like you can either run a zero map or remove it completely which is easy to do.
 

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Btw my mods are butterfly valves removed, tps adjusted, pair valve removed, BMC air filter, snorkels shortened about in inch, Leo Vince slip on, 44t rear, pc3 with Skizzes 70hp 50 mpg map. Mileage is like stock.
 
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