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2017 Kawasaki Versys-x 300; 14/46 sprockets (stock);
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JT, I too got only 10K out of the stock chain which really surprised me. I normally get 20K+ from a chain. I noticed that the rear hub does not include a cushion drive which may be a contributing factor. Or, perhaps the stock chain is poor quality. I replaced mine with stock front and JT 46 rear and a high quality DID chain. It is not difficult to replace them but you need a good quality chain breaker/press tool. I use an RK but there are other good tools available. Don't remove the old chain. Use it to pull the new chain through and around the drive sprocket. I recommend using the rivet master link when installing the new chain, but the tool will also install a clip link. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the advice @Ridesalot - appreciate it. How long have you had the DID chain / is it wearing well (VX3?)

Looks like JT sprocket has a 14T cushioned front now too ... are you happy with their quality?

Thanks again!
JT
 

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Vx300 Don’t fear the Revs!
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you need a good quality chain breaker/press tool.
Cut-off wheel works just fine for permanent removal 👍
I’m using the JT cushioned 14T. Have 2k miles on it now. Like it just fine. I used the natural DID x-ring chain with clip style master link. I’ve had some practice and am comfortable with using those.
 

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I have an old chain breaker somewhere that has not seen use in 30 years.
Angle grind any two pins on the same link plate to below the surface of the plate and punch the link out with hammer and nail. Sometimes I use a fine drift.
Quick, clean and easy.
You can even use the removed link to connect the new chain to the old and pull the new chain through.
 

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Vx300 Don’t fear the Revs!
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Removing the pin seemed like too much trouble for me. I just sliced the 2 plates 😂
Had all the covers off anyway to change the sprockets. So pretty easy to put the new chain on.
 

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Thanks for the advice @Ridesalot - appreciate it. How long have you had the DID chain / is it wearing well (VX3?)

Looks like JT sprocket has a 14T cushioned front now too ... are you happy with their quality?

Thanks again!
JT
I used the stock Kawasaki 14 tooth drive sprocket and a JT 46 rear because Kawasaki was out of stock on the rear 46. The JT seems well made and appeared to be lighter weight that stock. (I didn't weigh them) Too soon to determine how the DID is wearing.
 

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I used the stock Kawasaki 14 tooth drive sprocket and a JT 46 rear because Kawasaki was out of stock on the rear 46. The JT seems well made and appeared to be lighter weight that stock. (I didn't weigh them) Too soon to determine how the DID is wearing.
Brockie made a good point about the pins. I use an angle grinder to grind two pins flush with the plate. The the tool will easily push out the pins. If you don't grind those pins, there is great risk that you will break the drive pin on the tool.
A little more discussion on using the breaker/press tool. Modern O and X ring master links are a press fit. The tool allows you to slowly press the plates accurately to the proper position. If you use slip joint pliers to squeeze the plates you may squeeze them too much which will compress the O/X ring which may cause premature failure of the link. A very small C clamp may work but I have not tried that.
 

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Vx300 Don’t fear the Revs!
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There seems to be many off-road enthusiasts here. Curious if anyone here has tried or uses 14/48 gearing?

Most of us have probably seen RyanF9’s 2017 review. It pretty much sold me on the bike. Not that I was looking an off-road machine. That seems to be Ryan’s forte and he added 2 teeth on the rear. I find myself curious about improving torque. Has anyone here crossed over to the dark side and raised the revs on this machine?

If you haven’t seen it:
 

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2017 Kawasaki Versys-x 300; 14/46 sprockets (stock);
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There seems to be many off-road enthusiasts here. Curious if anyone here has tried or uses 14/48 gearing?

Most of us have probably seen RyanF9’s 2017 review. It pretty much sold me on the bike. Not that I was looking an off-road machine. That seems to be Ryan’s forte and he added 2 teeth on the rear. I find myself curious about improving torque. Has anyone here crossed over to the dark side and raised the revs on this machine?

If you haven’t seen it:
I forgot he mentioned going UP 2 teeth on the rear sprocket - I watched that video before I realized how low the -x 300 was geared. It would make an off road tractor... kinda like a tw200 ... but still with a decent top end (>60mph anyway).
I loved the high rev shots "where you had no business " ... like the drive thru 🤣
 

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Vx300 Don’t fear the Revs!
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My favorite was in the parking garage 😂. I’m thinking it might be fun to gain some rear wheel steering on dirt roads n such. Perhaps even wheelie a little without dumping the clutch. There’s a pair of closely spaced little speed bumps leaving the parking lot where I work. I don’t really want to dump the clutch on asphalt, but it be fun to lift it up a little on the first until I clear the second. Maybe even cross it up a little on a Friday. I bet it’d still do over 90
 

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Vx300 Don’t fear the Revs!
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I’ve concluded the freeway stability probably has something to do with the gyroscope of an engine spinning up around 10k at cruising speed. The solid build quality of the bike certainly helps too. I never feel much if any flex
 

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I geared up because I found 1st gear a waste of time. Getting away from traffic lights etc, plus the bike revved a little less at speed. With just a little clutch starting off in second was no problem.
Why they geared the very same engine as in the Ninja 300 down is beyond me. Gearing up also spaces out the gear changes a little. All in all, gearing up makes the bike a far more rideable bike for the average rider.

You may disagree. You are entitled to. It's a free world.

Engineering wise the Ninja 300 seems identical to the Versys motor, specs, valve timing, power and torque statistics. Only the ECU must be different, but will it match, and what others changes might there possibly be inside?
 

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I thought 1st was pretty useless, besides saving a little clutch with the stock gearing. This bike sure isn’t much of a hole-shot machine. Then I thought of something.

What happens if I get Into the 8k-12k power band straight away? You can get right up to 12k pretty quickly in that short 1st gear. With a quick and timely shift to 2nd; I was looking at about 8k hehe. Perfect! It’s not entirely useless after all. It’s no lunge monkey. But definitely an improved hole shot style launch! If you’re in the mood for a spirited ride...

I’m really curious about what kind of hooligan action might be possible with a little better torque response. In the name of science, I’m going to see what happens with 2 extra teeth on the rear. Will report in the up coming season.
 

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I’m really curious ... hooligan action ... In the name of science ... 2 extra teeth ...
This sounds like a great dystopian movie ... grab the popcorn - I can't wait to see what happens!
 
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Got me thinking aluminum rear sprocket now. Anyone have experience with these?

My first thought is anodized hard coat. Second is it would probably wear off the load bearing surface quickly leaving sharper edges on the sprocket. Perhaps a mild hardening for even contact under wear if not too brittle. Might last a reasonable time <40 hp?
 

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Got me thinking aluminum rear sprocket now. Anyone have experience with these?

My first thought is anodized hard coat. Second is it would probably wear off the load bearing surface quickly leaving sharper edges on the sprocket. Perhaps a mild hardening for even contact under wear if not too brittle. Might last a reasonable time <40 hp?
I believe you'll be dissapointed at how quickly they wear out.
 

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5000 miles would be acceptable. Or more like a single race kind of item?
You probably right. I see the alum inner steel outer bolted together, but question much if any weight reduction once you factor in the extra fasteners. Certainly additional cost. Lightened steel is probably it. Have to see what’s out there. Might even drill one out a bit?
 
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