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2017 Versys X300
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Discussion Starter #1
Just done the 24,000 km service on my x300. Valves didn't need adjustment and only other work done was oil, filter & spark plugs. Cost me $740 and quoted 5 hrs work to access and check the valves. Does 5 hrs for this major service sound right? I feel violated...
Can I please ask that only x300 owners respond? Not sure if it's completely different for other models. Thanks.
 

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Don’t remember exact number but my dealer quoted under $200 to check valves last year but said the price was double if they adjusted them. That did not need adjustment.
 

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Don’t remember exact number but my dealer quoted under $200 to check valves last year but said the price was double if they adjusted them. That did not need adjustment.
A VG reason to learn HOW to adjust your own valves - if they say that they are WITHIN specs (say at .21 on a range of .31 to .21), they ARE correct, but they are at the TIGHT end, and might lead to a valve contacting a piston BEFORE you 'check' them again.

A LOT of us who "do" our own valve-checks OPEN them to the LOOSE end of the specs so that they're good for a long time.

(y)(y)

:cool:
 

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Just done the 24,000 km service on my x300. Valves didn't need adjustment and only other work done was oil, filter & spark plugs. Cost me $740 and quoted 5 hrs work to access and check the valves. Does 5 hrs for this major service sound right? I feel violated...
Can I please ask that only x300 owners respond? Not sure if it's completely different for other models. Thanks.
Did the valves need to be adjusted at the 12k interval?

5 hours sounds right enough to me, however...

Let's say they charged you $50 for parts that leaves $690 about $140 an hour... My local dealer is $80 an hour I believe? Pretty sure they charged me $48 for something that took 0.6 hours so $80 an hour.

$400 labor plus $50 in parts sounds alot more like what it should be.
 

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Did the valves need to be adjusted at the 12k interval?

5 hours sounds right enough to me, however...

Let's say they charged you $50 for parts that leaves $690 about $140 an hour... My local dealer is $80 an hour I believe? Pretty sure they charged me $48 for something that took 0.6 hours so $80 an hour.

$400 labor plus $50 in parts sounds alot more like what it should be.

Fasteddie are the valves really close enough to the piston to contact them from lack of valve adjustment?
 

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IF they are TOO tight, I hazard the guess that - YES - they would contact, and that's $$$$$.
 

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I wonder if you would lose significant compression before that happened or not. Seems like a fair assumption though.
 

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2017 Versys X300
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Discussion Starter #8
What a saga! Rode the bike back from workshop and was leaking (oil, I thought). Took it back and it was loose radiator clamp. Looked at the invoice, was 5hrs at $120 AUD , plus parts (oil, filter & plug). Didn't need to adjust, just checked and all good, apparently. I fell off my chair because he quoted me $300 plus parts before I booked it. Then, bam!

Worse still, not sure if it's in my mind but the bike seems to be running rougher now (more vibration at 8000 RPM. 8000 was a bit of a sweet spot on my bike...just hummed along (7000 was rough but smoothed out at 8000, in 5th. I can now feel the vibe in my hands. This may sound paranoid... I won't be going back there.

I'm not game to do my own valves, but may need to reconsider.

Anyway, thanks all for your contributions.
 

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2017 Versys X300
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Discussion Starter #9
Did the valves need to be adjusted at the 12k interval?

5 hours sounds right enough to me, however...

Let's say they charged you $50 for parts that leaves $690 about $140 an hour... My local dealer is $80 an hour I believe? Pretty sure they charged me $48 for something that took 0.6 hours so $80 an hour.

$400 labor plus $50 in parts sounds alot more like what it should be.
Sorry ,forgot to mention. Doesn't look like valves needed adjustment at 12k. I've seen posts suggesting the are still good at 48k (other bikes). Cheers.
 

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2017 Versys X300
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Discussion Starter #11
That's rough man, sorry to hear all that.
All good, Holeshot. You live and learn.

I usually service my bikes at the dealers so Im used to getting ripped off there. I decided to go elsewhere this time, opting for a small local bike shop. My Spider-senses were tingling when I went in, but I ignore them.

I recon I'll service the bike myself every other 6k and then use a mechanic the other 6k, and try to build my mechanical confidence (and hopefully competence) in the meantime.

Cheers!
 

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I wonder if you would lose significant compression before that happened or not. Seems like a fair assumption though.
I believe that YES - as the piston's top breaks ALL the compression would be gone.

IF you're lucky you might notice the noise as the valve began "nibbling away" at your piston. I've seen engines from TOP FUEL dragsters that "swallowed a valve". NOT pretty!
 

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A VG reason to learn HOW to adjust your own valves - if they say that they are WITHIN specs (say at .21 on a range of .31 to .21), they ARE correct, but they are at the TIGHT end, and might lead to a valve contacting a piston BEFORE you 'check' them again.

A LOT of us who "do" our own valve-checks OPEN them to the LOOSE end of the specs so that they're good for a long time.

(y)(y)

:cool:
Had them set loose at 8,000 miles before heading to Alaska. Discussed with mechanic ahead of time I did not want them on the tight side when checked at 24,000 miles. They were near middle.
 

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Fuzzy where were they at 8000?

Ed, I'm just guessing here but the more I think about it I really doubt "normally tight" valves are going to interfere with the piston. I mean I near guarantee that you can install the head without a gasket and turn the motor over without interference (every engine I have ever rebuilt you can do this safely and easily). The gasket is probably 0.8ish thick? You'd be running with valves @ 0.6 open when they were shut at that point engine wouldn't run. This is not a thing I am near positive. Let's say your valves would hit the piston at -0.2 you think the entire tolerance stack from the crankshaft to the crank bearing to the connecting rod to the piston to the head gasket to the head to the valve seat to the valve is plus minus 0.41? I'm betting its a number closer to 2 or 3.
 

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The risk with tight valves is not that they will contact the piston. It is that the exhaust valve does not stay in contact with the seat long enough on each cycle to dissipate sufficient heat. Then the valve stem starts getting brittle and can break, and the valve head will be set loose in the cylinder causing engine destruction.
 

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Fuzzy where were they at 8000?

Ed, I'm just guessing here but the more I think about it I really doubt "normally tight" valves are going to interfere with the piston. I mean I near guarantee that you can install the head without a gasket and turn the motor over without interference (every engine I have ever rebuilt you can do this safely and easily). The gasket is probably 0.8ish thick? You'd be running with valves @ 0.6 open when they were shut at that point engine wouldn't run. This is not a thing I am near positive. Let's say your valves would hit the piston at -0.2 you think the entire tolerance stack from the crankshaft to the crank bearing to the connecting rod to the piston to the head gasket to the head to the valve seat to the valve is plus minus 0.41? I'm betting its a number closer to 2 or 3.
I guess I just don't want to find out, so I "do" mine 'loose'.
 

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ok, that is all a very interesting subject. i am new to that shim clearance valve system, as I had most of my life classic bikes with push rods (like the original enfield, not the crap they make these days, or Harley); anyways, the principle remains the same. With pushrods, the timing cams are at the bottom (not cam chain), and the pushrods push to rockers up or down, as the cams move around, to open and close the exhaust and inlet valves. When the piston is on TDC (top dead center), you should be able to move the pushrod around; if not, the valve is too tight. when it is spinning too freely, the engine is just noisy or in extreme situations, the pushrod can fall off from its seat. when it is too tight, it does not touch the piston (that is impossible), but rather it can cause the valves or valve seats to gradually burn because the valves cannot 'breathe'.

the valve can touch the piston only if the timing is all wrong, like you put the timing cams in wrong position, or when the piston moves too high in TDC. It happened to me when I tried to increase the compression with a longer con-rod and was forced to add some gaskets under the engine barrel to reduce the upward piston travel.

I am not sure, but there seems to be here too much hysteria about the valve clearance issue. if the company says that we need to check the clearance every 24000km or even 42000km, it means that there is enough tolerance so that even if the clearance is really tight, it is still far from damaging the engine.

Ok, I know people here who messed up their engines in that way. But these guys just did not care about their bikes. Hardly ever changing the oil or air filter, brake fluid, fork fluid, coolant, or anything at all. They think that the only thing they need to do is to fill up their tanks with gasoline, and the bike will just run forever.

and just to add, it is hardly unlikely that with getting to zero valve clearance you will experience an immediate engine failure. First, you should notice a loss of power/compression. Then if you keep going like that, the valves will begin to leak and you will see white smoke coming from your exhaust. Then, either you need to change the valves or polish them with valve-paste and this usually would fix the problem. In other words, you would experience that something is wrong 'gradually', and then noticing all the symptoms, you need to open the engine. sometimes white smoke coming from the exhaust can also indicate that the piston rings are shot...
 

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Adjustment. Quoted 440 labor + parts, 10. Didn’t ask for anything else. K&W Cycle. I haven’t purchased a bike from them Or anything, so regular rate.

 
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