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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went for about an hour ride today with no issues, got home and killed bike in the driveway to take my things inside. went back out to move bike into my shop where i park it, it cranked then died when i gave it gas. ever since it wont turn over. turn the key and dash lights up, fuel pump primes, but when i hit the starter the electric start noise happens with no engine turnover. release the starter button and the dash and fuel pump reset as if i turned the key off and back on. battery was charged but i put it on a tender for a while anyway. no change. flipped kill switch and kickstand and key off and on also no change. ideas?

2011 650
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Check your battery connections and ground. It sounds like a bad connection, when it comes under load from the starter.
terminals and engine ground are clean and tight. where is the frame ground located on a 2011? I understand the follow the cables part, just dont want to pull everything apart if there's a simple access. first bike and learning these things as they happen. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The electric starter will click for as long as i hold the button down. It doesn't lose power on it's own, only when i release the button does the dash snd pump reset happen. Dont know if that makes a difference in diagnosis.
 

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Are you saying the starter is turning the engine over/ Or are you saying the solenoid clicks but no starter motor tuning over?
 

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A quick battery test after charging, place a meter across the battery.What I did on a new battery ; jumping the start solenoid with the key off, using the starter as a load test ( starter draws 50 amp as measured with my meter) the current was 50 amp at 11.0VDC ( this is the actual voltage measured while producing 50 amp, no load voltage was 12.9 VDC)
Here is my test link , use post #12 Battery Testing Using Starter or Load Tester
 

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Use Your meter and see if you have power coming out of the start solenoid when you push the button. I have had a failed solenoid and it clicked but didn't make a connection through the solenoid.
 

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Let us go one step further, connect a meter across your battery, set it on the floor, key off. jump the start solenoid with a 10 gauge wire, I want to know what the voltage is when the starter is running, and also the voltage before you try.
 

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The battery has died. They go all of a sudden with no warning. Buy a new one. Just did it on my 300 same symptoms.
Charged the battery, it shows OK voltage but...
 

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Yes do a load test on the battery.If the resting voltage has been dropping over a short period of time, then you likely have a bad cell. Another thing you could check is for any voltage drop over the positive cables, from the battery to the starter solenoid, solenoid to the starter. Many years ago I had a positive cable that had corrosion inside. It looked fine, and you couldn't see anything wrong with it. It showed continuity through its length. When you put a volt meter on the battery it was fine, but when you checked the voltage at each cable end, ( opposite of the battery ) there was a very small difference in voltage when compared to the battery. Replaced that positive cable and no more problems. The symptoms were the same as yours. Key on lights etc come on, but when you pushed the starter button, a click or nothing and everything dimmed. Also have a look at the main fuse and maybe replace it. Electrical is always a process of elimination.
 

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First, if the solenoid clicks, the fuel pump runs. The main fuse is fine, the starter motor is connected to the battery through the start solenoid. It would be impossible for me to measure 50 amp on a 30 amp main fuse.
Secondly, the wire from the battery to the start solenoid is rated for 50 amp, in 14 years I have never heard of that wire failing . Lots of start solenoid failures, some poor engine grounds.
That test was developed by me for anyone with a meter, it is quick and maybe I need to do a separate post.
I am always sceptical of taking a battery in for testing, does the guy behind the counter know what he is doing? Will the new battery he urges you to buy solve your problem? You are looking at 6 hours of charge time, plus resetting your clock-- only to find the new battery does the same thing. And you are out $$$$ and your back to the drawing board.


My test takes more time to hook the meter up and set it to volts DC than anything else. I did something like 6 runs of 10 seconds each, at 50 amp and 11 VDC. I will also reiterate that the only load was the starter, pushing the start button isn't the same. Two key elements in my test- a fixed known current - a fixed run time . I may have done 20 second tests- best to read my thread on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The battery has died. They go all of a sudden with no warning. Buy a new one. Just did it on my 300 same symptoms.
Charged the battery, it shows OK voltage but...
Swapped battery and it cranked right up. That's what i get for trusting the battery tender telling me it was fully charged and the lights coming on to assume it couldnt be the battery.

I didnt have a volt meter but after this discussion i guess I'll be getting one.

Thanks yall.
 

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Headlight(s) going dim when the button was pressed was usually a bad sign. Now with LED bulbs that diagnostic tool has gone.
 

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Glad to hear that a different battery solved your problem. It is more often than not the route of a lot of electrical issues and the first place to check. When using battery tenders, you should always periodically check their charging voltage. As with all things, not all are equal.
 
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