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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Shots Fired..............

 

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It will be interesting to hear @invader has to say--my take -- the proof is in the using of oils like the Mobil ! 15/50 for 40,000 KM now on my 2015, motor doesn't use any oil and my clutch is fine.
 

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It will be interesting to hear @invader has to say--my take -- the proof is in the using of oils like the Mobil ! 15/50 for 40,000 KM now on my 2015, motor doesn't use any oil and my clutch is fine.
Not the best choice, but it is good enough for your purpose... It's always much better than no oil at all. I was running Mobil 1 0W-40 FS which offers better engine protection than Mobil 1 15W-50.

I've recently switched to Motul Ester based synthetics, and the result is absolutely amazing! It also never shifted so easily.
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Good Motul - Products index

Motul 5100 4T Semi Synthetic Oil - Riders Choice

Better Motul - Products index

Motul 7100 4T Full Synthetic Oil - Riders Choice

Best Motul - Products index

Motul 300V 4T Full Synthetic Race Oil - Riders Choice
 

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I'm too frugal to spring for the high priced synthetics but I only use motorcycle-specific oils. Currently, Castrol 10W-40 with Jaso MA2 rating is coursing through my V650's veins. It was on sale.

I've also used Formula1- a Canadian Tire brand made by Shell- with Jaso MA2 rating. I change the oil frequently, usually around 4000 km. If I can find a synthetic motorcycle oil on sale I might try it as it could extend my oil change intervals.

87000 km, never need to add oil between changes, shifts smoothly.
 

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I had to use Motul 300v in my previous bike to keep the clutch working correctly. I used Mobil 1 for years but the clutch gave me issues until I switched to Motul. It's expensive but worth it.

Currently using regular old Valvoline 10w40 motorcycle blend in the Versys and I'm happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Started using Motul 7100 10w40 on the Versys 1000 after i ran out of Amsoil. Was really happy with the Motul. Always got great prices on Amazon for the 4litre jug. Still have 2 -3 jugs in the garage but sold the bike last November...
 

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Are you planning on getting another bike, Joe? You mentioned physical ailments as the reason you sold last year, I hope you've seen some improvement.
 

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My Harley and my Moto Guzzi don't share the oil between the engine, clutch, and transmission. The engine oil is only for the engine. The Harley has 3 separate oiled areas. The Moto Guzzi has 2 separate oiled areas because it has a dry clutch.

I always use Motorcycle specific motorcycle oil and all the autoparts stores and even Walmart carry motorcycle specific oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Are you planning on getting another bike, Joe? You mentioned physical ailments as the reason you sold last year, I hope you've seen some improvement.

Yes after i have my right hip and both knee's replaced. Just not in a real hurry to do any surgeries at the moment.
 

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Good luck with the surgery and recovery! I know a lot of folks who've had really excellent outcomes. Be sure to follow the doc's recovery orders, and do what the physical therapist tells you.
 

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FWIW, imho etc, the very minor cost savings of using a good automobile engine oil vs a motorcycle JASO rated oil is so minimal it isn't worth messing with.

While the proof is in the pudding for those who are successfully using auto oils, it just seems like an unnecessary corner to cut. Skip one or two Starbucks per year and the difference in cost is paid for.
 

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Not the best choice, but it is good enough for your purpose... It's always much better than no oil at all. I was running Mobil 1 0W-40 FS which offers better engine protection than Mobil 1 15W-50.

I've recently switched to Motul Ester based synthetics, and the result is absolutely amazing! It also never shifted so easily.
View attachment 184099
Good Motul - Products index

Motul 5100 4T Semi Synthetic Oil - Riders Choice

Better Motul - Products index

Motul 7100 4T Full Synthetic Oil - Riders Choice

Best Motul - Products index

Motul 300V 4T Full Synthetic Race Oil - Riders Choice
Well today I changed out the 15/50 Mobil 1 oil and used my last 2.5 liters ( 5000 KM, man it looked really dirty) So I am at 40,000 KM now & second valve shim check this spring, all in spec!!- so sometime in 2022 I will look at this Motul 5W40
 
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Well today I changed out the 15/50 Mobil 1 oil and used my last 2.5 liters ( 5000 KM, man it looked really dirty) So I am at 40,000 KM now & second valve shim check this spring, all in spec!!- so sometime in 2022 I will look at this Motul 5W40
Beside 5W-40, you can also select 10W-40, 10W-50, 15W-50, or 20W-50.

I really like the huge improvement in how smoothly it runs, and I love how my exhaust already smells on second ride with Motul 100% ester when I do get a faint whiff of it at stops, depending on the breeze... Ester Group V synthetics actually help restore older hardened and shrunken valve seals, etc, as opposed to PAO Group IV synthetics which cause the opposite. An offensive oily smell at stops had urged me into the wonderful world of Motul.
 

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does anyone use Rotella T6 in their 650s long term? I used that in all my bikes until two larger displacement bikes (ZRXs) developed slipping clutches, one at high mileage (over 50K miles) and other with a little over 10K miles. Now I'm using valvoline full synthetic and haven't noticed any issues.
One of my 650s (09 Ninja) got a replacement engine with over 30 miles on it when I bought it. Initially I used Rotella, clutch started slipping. Of course, I have no idea how the prior owner treated it. For a quick fix, I cannibalized my old engine (65K miles) for its clutch parts, and changed oil to Valvoline. No issues over 10K miles since.
 

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I really like the huge improvement in how smoothly it runs, and I love how my exhaust already smells on the second ride with Motul 100% ester when I do get a faint whiff of it at stops, depending on the breeze... Ester Group V synthetics actually help restore older hardened and shrunken valve seals, etc, as opposed to PAO Group IV synthetics which cause the opposite. An offensive oily smell at stops had urged me into the wonderful world of Motul.
I ride with a friend who uses Motul in his Honda Shadow, but I can only smell unburnt fuel on the few occasions that I ride behind him. It must be a cruiser thing- they all run rich, and Harleys seem to be the worst, like a rolling gas pump with flatulence.

Nostalgic for the smell of castor racing oil? put a tablespoon of vegetable oil in a full tank of gas!
 

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does anyone use Rotella T6 in their 650s long term? I used that in all my bikes until two larger displacement bikes (ZRXs) developed slipping clutches, one at high mileage (over 50K miles) and other with a little over 10K miles. Now I'm using valvoline full synthetic and haven't noticed any issues.
One of my 650s (09 Ninja) got a replacement engine with over 30 miles on it when I bought it. Initially I used Rotella, clutch started slipping. Of course, I have no idea how the prior owner treated it. For a quick fix, I cannibalized my old engine (65K miles) for its clutch parts, and changed oil to Valvoline. No issues over 10K miles since.
I’ve tried Rotella T6 two different times and had clutch slipping issues both times. I now use Castrol Power 1 and have no clutch issues at all, and it shifts really smooth. I’m only riding about 5,000 miles per year and don’t see it as a big deal to pay $20 for two quarts of oil a year.
 

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Well today I changed out the 15/50 Mobil 1 oil and used my last 2.5 liters ( 5000 KM, man it looked really dirty)
Years back I talked to a Mobil tech who said that the colour of the oil means nothing. He had tested the Mobil 1- the old red cap version they discontinued- that I'd run for 20,000 km in my Concours on a cross-continent tour. Despite it being totally black in colour, it had 15% useful life remaining. He said that nearly all motor oil is changed well before the point when it has no protection, a result of most mechanics recommending more frequent changes than the manufacturer state in the manuals.
 

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He said that nearly all motor oil is changed well before the point when it has no protection
Let me fix that for you:
…nearly all SYNTHETIC motor oil is changed well before…

Conventional oils are another story. In the ‘80’s GM’s testing found that 1000 miles of any condition driving, in any of their engines, reduced the re-fried dinosaur juice to less than adequate status. Or so the internal report that I read stated.

I may be biased. The report may have been “accidentally left” where I might read it by a PChem Eng who worked his entire career in lubricants and has patents in his name for PAO base stocks, whom I may be related to.
 
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