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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I m a new member to the forum from Tx. I acquired an excellent blue 09 Versys with less 12 000 miles from my brother. Its in perfect running condition with givi cases . Its been lowered previously and im glad as i can tiptoe being shortlegged . So far ive ridden it close to 500 miles around the neighborhood ( no interstate highway as of yet ) and love every minute of it. This one has the made in Japan label.
BTW this is my first big bike after 30 yrs of not having a motorcycle. I started on a Honda C70 passport back in the 80s . That was a great little scooter and its still being made by honda... Anyway that s another story.
With the shortage of micro processors and all sorts of supplies thats now going on , ive been anticipating the day when the stock stator and R/R will fail. So what better than to get them now .. I know this has been discussed for many times. Many advise to stay away from cheap chinese made stators and R /R sold at Ebay. So what brand s do you recommend that s at least of quality made in the USA? And where s the best place to order them ?
 

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WELCOME aboard!

I've replaced BOTH items on my '09 (since replaced by my '15) and '08. You should get an answer from onewizard - "HE da man!"
 

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So in my post #27, the first photo is unnamed --take a guess where I got it.
Several people have installed Electrosport-which is delta wound and more importantly machine wound.
The price is about 1/3 of OEM









Price has gone up--now about half of OEM


I will do a separate post on regulators, although a simple search using series regulator and my name will find lots of threads with the same answers..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Onewizard . For the stator you have recommended the one from Electrosports
Just waiting for your recommendations for the R /R and harness .
BTW the Versys ( which is a California version with emission canister) i own already has a rear tire hugger . My bro said he upgraded to protect the regulator from rain and mud. Also i noticed the oil level is a little above the top level. I called my bro and he said to leave it as is. So i guess he must have some knowledge about the fact it cools the stator.
 

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Well in 2019 / 2020 I had a promising plug and play using the triumph harness and either polaris regulator. I ran into some difficulties and my home and property came first this year. I have since come up with what I think is a workable solution, but it needs to wait until the snow flies here. The issue is the header plug I have, is designed for printed circuit boards, it cannot withstand the heat required to solder wires to it, however--I think I have a way of doing it and instructing others how to.

FYI, anyone reading this and thinking they have the skill needed, be aware of what I am able to do or have done:
Over 40 years ago I silver soldered a radiator using an oxyacetylene torch. I worked in an electric motor shop, we silver soldered all y or delta connections, the same way, that includes 28 gauge maget wire. I have a hot air/vacuum / pencil- rework solder station and have repaired many double-sided printed circuit boards. I have a multitude of soldering irons, pencils and solder stations. When I made the last harness, I used freeze on each connection to remove the heat to prevent melting of the header plug, this is extremely time-consuming and you need to be quick-as in less than 3 seconds-obviously very stressful- so I destroyed one header plug on my final power connection- I was able to recover the triumph harness but I put a stop to go further--Like I said, I think I have a solution..
As to best fit for anything other than a MK-3 is the 4012941 SH775BA Polaris, unfortunately they are out of production and 98% of the new ones are fake-Here is a example of a legitimate new one, I think I could buy the 4016868 which is 50 amp for about $45 less than what this seller is asking for a 35 amp Polaris regulator ( actual continuous rating is 25 amp- which exceeds the 22 amp max output of the stator)--And it is a legit regulator, those numbers on the end of the regulator are what distinguishes the legit from the fake ones.

I would look at buying a used one, the only problem is I have had, what I think was a defective one that had 1 SCR not firing, it may have been intermittent however I sent it to @Fastoman , that was an expensive lesson, and it was load tested on my bike, but it should have seen 10 hours of use--hindsight is 20/20
I have made an inquiry with our local dealer to see if they still have the 50 amp in stock and what the going price is. Once I know I will post it, be aware our dollar is 0.80 US
The last time I checked, the 50 amp was $115 Canadian, new!!
Below several legit new and used ones;


 

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After reading a bunch of posts (and translating myself into my own language) about the stator and those things I got lost in the information. I have a 2018 V650 and for now I don't have any problems with charging, everything works perfectly for now.
So as long as everything works OK it is not necessary to change anything.
I can leave everything to the OEM for now, and when the charging starts to be problematic, then I need to change the Regulator Rectifier or the stator (depend what is issue).
I mean, I don't have to pay attention to that until the charging problem starts.
 

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For your consideration, IMHO, the Roadster Cycle kit of your choice is the way to go. Get his harness which eliminates any weaknesses in the factory wiring, you really can't build a harness any cheaper yourself with the quality of wire being used. It also includes a circuit breaker. Wire this directly to your battery. I'd also recommend not relying on a crimped connector to the stator wires and my preference is to use a crimp and solder with appropriate heat shrink tubing. All your R/R worries are then over.

If you retain the factory R/R for now, just ensure the connections are totally clean and tight, as this is the most common point of overheating and oxidation. I'd also recommend installing a direct wired (and switched) voltmeter so you can see resting voltage of the battery with the bike off, and also monitor your power usage/charging state while running. Just remember to switch it off when you're done riding to avoid any additional parasitic draw. You can leave it on while the battery is on a Battery Tender, kind of interesting how that works too.
 

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For your consideration, IMHO, the Roadster Cycle kit of your choice is the way to go. Get his harness which eliminates any weaknesses in the factory wiring, you really can't build a harness any cheaper yourself with the quality of wire being used. It also includes a circuit breaker. Wire this directly to your battery. I'd also recommend not relying on a crimped connector to the stator wires and my preference is to use a crimp and solder with appropriate heat shrink tubing. All your R/R worries are then over.

If you retain the factory R/R for now, just ensure the connections are totally clean and tight, as this is the most common point of overheating and oxidation. I'd also recommend installing a direct wired (and switched) voltmeter so you can see resting voltage of the battery with the bike off, and also monitor your power usage/charging state while running. Just remember to switch it off when you're done riding to avoid any additional parasitic draw. You can leave it on while the battery is on a Battery Tender, kind of interesting how that works too.
That is 100% incorrect, the wire from the regulator goes directly to the load side of the 30 amp fuse, connecting directly to the battery makes the 30 amp fuse carry 10% current, that produced by the regulator and battery. Done properly, a crimp is superior to a solder connection. I was a licensed professional electrician, master electrician. But like what I have below each post, no need to listen to me. I have over 10 years on two Versys, I never expect to replace my stator, unless I crash on that side.

Also I can buy a Triumph harness for under $20 Canadian , and a new equivalent to roadster cycle for under I think $130, I will know for sure tomorrow.
 

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After reading a bunch of posts (and translating myself into my own language) about the stator and those things I got lost in the information. I have a 2018 V650 and for now I don't have any problems with charging, everything works perfectly for now.
So as long as everything works OK it is not necessary to change anything.
I can leave everything to the OEM for now, and when the charging starts to be problematic, then I need to change the Regulator Rectifier or the stator (depend what is issue).
Rarely does the regulator fail, usually the battery and then the stator, the older MK-1 and MK-2 are more vulnerable due to the old way of winding the stators. 2015 on, have a higher insulation class and are wound with the delta connections on the backside. One advantage of converting to a series regulator is the longer life of the battery.
 
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Hi I m a new member to the forum from Tx. I acquired an excellent blue 09 Versys with less 12 000 miles from my brother. Its in perfect running condition with givi cases . Its been lowered previously and im glad as i can tiptoe being shortlegged . So far ive ridden it close to 500 miles around the neighborhood ( no interstate highway as of yet ) and love every minute of it. This one has the made in Japan label.
BTW this is my first big bike after 30 yrs of not having a motorcycle. I started on a Honda C70 passport back in the 80s . That was a great little scooter and its still being made by honda... Anyway that s another story.
With the shortage of micro processors and all sorts of supplies thats now going on , ive been anticipating the day when the stock stator and R/R will fail. So what better than to get them now .. I know this has been discussed for many times. Many advise to stay away from cheap chinese made stators and R /R sold at Ebay. So what brand s do you recommend that s at least of quality made in the USA? And where s the best place to order them ?
So, thanks for asking, you have the answers now, one thing you never asked, the battery life. I did a post on this, I average 6 years on a Yuasa OEM battery, I attribute that to the series regulator.
14.2 VDC is the ideal charging voltage, 14.5 to 15 VDC which is what to expect from an OEM shunt regulator that will eventually cook your battery.
As to buying a stator to keep on hand, I don't have one! I do have my old Compu-Fire regulator and am looking at getting a used 4012941 if the price is right.

To everyone else that posted, this wasn't a debate, the OP asked a simple question, for me, the cost of 3 tanks of fuel=a series regulator !-

Unless you are an electrical engineer, you should stop here.

Well I have a huge advantage, I still have the core of @Smiley stator, I doubt I will ever rewind it, but have the winding dope, one key would be to get the core epoxy coated, allowing more room to rewind, I would also be winding Y connected and with 15 gauge wire. I would also possibly drop a turn or two every second pole ( six pole 3 phase stator) Personally I think the output voltage is too high, watts is volts times amps--so a brief explanation-your 12 volt charger has possibly a center tapped transformer with two diodes.

So 120 VAC primary and 24 VAC secondary so hypothetically we have 120 turns on the primary, 1 turn equal 1 volt, so the secondary has 24 turns , center tapped. A second more sophisticated charger has a full wave rectification with polarity protection and uses all the copper 100% of the time, ( someone wants me to explain center tapped two diode, you need to ask me)


That winding is hypothetically 120 primary and 12 secondary turns, so 1 amp on the primary produces 12 amp at 12 volts AC on the secondary, say I changed the secondary to 10 turns, I need to convert to watts, 120 volts X 1 amp =100 watts, using 10 volts into 120W =12 amp-- it is this that I considered when rewinding @Smiley stator.--Yes this is complicated- say that same charger was 16 VAC and our original wattage was 330 watts ( the Versys stator is this), by having 16 VAC our charger output would be 20 amp, however, if I changed to 12VAC it would be 27.5 amp- which is what I considered doing.
I see many advantages to upgrade the regulator, one caution on MK-1 and MK-2 is to do my stator test before converting, most failures are insulation breakdown, either from expansion and contraction or vibration, the moving magnetic field produces a vibration, which is why the stator is epoxy coated or varnish dipped and baked. So a higher continuous AC voltage will be expected using the series regulator because you are only running at 50 to 60% output power.
 

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One of the worst suppliers, and their replacement is Y connected China crap.
Do a quick search of my posts, Right now , I am on a android phone, not as easy to copy and paste.
My apologies. Had we been asked for a diagnostic chart I would have offered Electrosport. I will remove RM from my mental store.
 
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My apologies. Had we been asked for a diagnostic chart I would have offered Electrosport. I will remove RM from my mental store.
Like anything, I am all for preventing problems from arrising, it appears that Kawasaki has transitioned to series regulator on the V1000, the Ninja 1000 and a few others. Not the same regulator connector , identical to the Polaris connectors.
 

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Hi I m a new member to the forum from Tx. I acquired an excellent blue 09 Versys with less 12 000 miles from my brother. Its in perfect running condition with givi cases . Its been lowered previously and im glad as i can tiptoe being shortlegged . So far ive ridden it close to 500 miles around the neighborhood ( no interstate highway as of yet ) and love every minute of it. This one has the made in Japan label.
BTW this is my first big bike after 30 yrs of not having a motorcycle. I started on a Honda C70 passport back in the 80s . That was a great little scooter and its still being made by honda... Anyway that s another story.
With the shortage of micro processors and all sorts of supplies thats now going on , ive been anticipating the day when the stock stator and R/R will fail. So what better than to get them now .. I know this has been discussed for many times. Many advise to stay away from cheap chinese made stators and R /R sold at Ebay. So what brand s do you recommend that s at least of quality made in the USA? And where s the best place to order them ?
i bought 650 veryse 2010 of a scam artist motorcycle mechanic, he had siezed the bike off a customer, no doubt, about it that he had over charged the original owner customer,,, Well the next one to be scammed in the feeding frenze was myself and my mechanic, So it broke down on way home, So my mechanic determined it was the stators,,,, a $700 item from kawasaki dealer,,,,, So that was why the scam artist was doing somersault in manipulations to prevent us from working it out,,, the fault,?? As i had no more reserves of money,,,, i started looking at the china sources,,,,,, i bought two,, expecting failure ,price was nominal about $56 each delivered so thats $56 +$56 .So 40 months later , still have not used the second stator,,, yes i buy two of every thing from china, as i am worried about quality of china made,,,,but in this case the scammer scammed himself
 

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i bought 650 veryse 2010 of a scam artist motorcycle mechanic, he had siezed the bike off a customer, no doubt, about it that he had over charged the original owner customer,,, Well the next one to be scammed in the feeding frenze was myself and my mechanic, So it broke down on way home, So my mechanic determined it was the stators,,,, a $700 item from kawasaki dealer,,,,, So that was why the scam artist was doing somersault in manipulations to prevent us from working it out,,, the fault,?? As i had no more reserves of money,,,, i started looking at the china sources,,,,,, i bought two,, expecting failure ,price was nominal about $56 each delivered so thats $56 +$56 .So 40 months later , still have not used the second stator,,, yes i buy two of every thing from china, as i am worried about quality of china made,,,,but in this case the scammer scammed himself
I did a post possibly 6 years ago, it was a equivalent to china stator- Y connected with one 18gauge per phase line out. What I said then and will say now. If you add a series regulator such as the Polaris 4012941 SH775BA. You have a electrical system that is running at about 60% load, compared to 100% load at or above 3500RPM using a shunt regulator.
The challenge is finding a good used polaris , as there are at least 100 sellers of fake ones
on Ebay
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I might get get one of these voltmeter at Amazon.
 
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