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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking to find out what exactly does the Dyno V computer chip do for the bike? Does anyone have one and what has been your experience? Does it make the bike have more power or better gas mileage? I am trying to get any feed back before I purchase one.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I believe I am going to hold off for awhile and see if they might make something better.
 

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I got rid of the lean stumble at near 2800 rpm by adjusting main throttle sensor up to spec. The vacuum hose mod also improved low-end tractability and driveability. I also removed the subthrottle plates...

Look at the main (grey) throttle sensor's green alignment mark on its front from near your front left flasher, and note how it ligns up. Loosen sensor screw with T25 Torx tool. Rotate sensor counterclockwise by about half a millimeter as seen on pic. Adjust, then tighten Torx screw. Main throttle sensor's new position:



Main throttle sensor Torx screw:



Fast idle may then be higher. You can rotate subthrottle sensor (black, just above main throttle sensor) also counterclockwise with T25 Torx screw to reduce cold fast-idle rpm. I rotated mine to its maximum counterclockwise position, to which it was already near. Subthrottle sensor's new position:

1st config is a single 6" (15 cm) long, 1/8" (3.175 mm) inner diameter vacuum hose on both TB vacuum fittings. Leave the inlet air pressure sensor hose on its specific outer fitting which has a smaller inner diameter... I used GoodYear automotive 1/8" vacuum hose which has a thicker wall that is less prone to collapsing under vacuum pressure, and I also upgraded the IAP sensor hose with it. :thumb:

 

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I got rid of the lean stumble at near 2800 rpm by adjusting main throttle sensor up to spec. The vacuum hose mod also improved low-end tractability and driveability. I also removed the subthrottle plates...
I tried each of these steps a while back. It didn't really help much. The TPS sensor wasn't really out of book spec to begin with, but it was on the low side. The vacuum hose mod seemed to make no discernible difference at all. Removing the sub throttle plates made low rpm throttle response a little more....uhm...crisp, but seemed to make throttle application even more of an on/off switch than it was before. I think next step will be a tuner and some dyno time. If that doesn't cure it, she's getting traded in.

From the sound of it not every Versys runs this way, but mine is horrid under 3k rpm, so-so from 4-4.5k, and awesome above 5k. I think the only bike I've ever ridden that had worse throttle response at low rpm was an 83 CR480, but then again....how do you slowly open the throttle on a lightning bolt anyway? LOL
 

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What do you want from a bike motor below 3000rpm's?
It is not a harley with 5000rpm's max
You dont do fuel economy when you drive like this
If you want fuel economy just dont twist much the throtle, and keep the rpm's until 5000rpm's
 

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Personally, I think you're asking too much of this motor to be civilized below 3K. What's happening between 4 and 4.5K?
Below 4k the throttle is an on/off switch. Most times it's not an issue, but not everywhere is an open highway and ideal conditions. Low speed turns and slick surfaces can be tricky. Once the "switch is on" everything is good. It becomes smooth and controllable. The area between 4 and 4.5k (sometimes closer to 4.8k)is the same only generally there is enough carried speed to for it to be a non issue. The problem for me is not from a dead stop and accelerating out. All is pretty decent in that scenario. The problem for me is when already at speed, let off the throttle and decelerate, then when reapplying throttle it becomes an "on/off switch." Rarely, it will actually pick up smoothly (like a carburated engine). The rest of the time there is a loud pop through the exhaust as soon as the throttle is reopened and it jerks back to life. None of this occurs above 5k. It is smooth as silk all the way to redline.

As for the asking too much...hmmmmm. Funny how Suzuki's FI 650 twin is butter smooth from idle to redline. I'm leaning towards thinking the Vs tuning at low rpm is just poor. Above 5k it's pretty darn good from my perspective.

Edit: Just to be clear, the loud pop sounds just like decel pop, but doesn't occur until after cracking the throttle open again. Like there is air coming in, but the fuel delivery lags behind.
 

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I use the PC-V with the Autotune module. Driveability is just about perfect.

You won't be able to do much under 3000 rpm. That's essentially lugging the engine, and has nothing to do with fueling issues.
 

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jcstratt,

I know what you're talking about in terms of the on/off switch feel at low rpm's, I experience the same thing on my bike. I like to use engine braking too but if I'm not coming to a complete stop then I usually clutch in before getting back on the throttle. You could say I've adapted myself to the machine. I'm not advocating that approach; it would be nice to find a solution to this problem, but I'm not sure there is one. I hardly notice or think about it anymore.

The sv/dl 650 is a fantastic motor, perfect primary balance and all that. The Versys is quite a bit lighter than the dl, which probably accentuates the jerkiness. But you're right, the fuelling on those bikes is spot on.
 

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I've adapted as well, but I don't like it. The answer I'm looking for is whether or not a tuner can cure it. I haven't seen anyone actually say it "fixed" this issue or not. I'm sure the light crankshaft that allows such high engine braking also accentuates the on/off switch feel.

It doesn't help that I probably didn't describe the issue clearly to begin with.
 

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I found this description in an article regarding Husky's TE630. It describes what my experience with the Vs pretty well. I hadn't thought about it much, but mine surges at low speed with light throttle application as well.

and the only real issue we noted was a penchant for lurching when the throttle is opened in the first quarter-turn or so. This seems to be a common issue with FI-equipped bikes, which gets increasingly stronger with added displacement. You don’t notice it so much with a 250 because a smidge of gas isn’t producing much power, but on a 600cc machine the tiny crack of throttle sends the bike jolting. Working through paved corners is where this affects riders the most. No matter how delicate the right wrist, it was impossible to navigate cleanly unless it was a fast sweeper that allowed increasing throttle. The bike also surges a bit when holding a steady pace.
 
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