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Going all out for 2 up touring aspect......have a production date for a russell day long seat and replacing the stock cases on my 650LT with some kappa kgr 46 liter side cases. Keeping the wife happy is priority one.
 

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Installed the frame sliders. Anodized green with versys logo is a nice touch.
I like that! Where did you purchase those from?
 

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Put 150 miles on the brand new Fiona last weekend. Coming off vintage scooters, that machine pulls! Hardest thing was keeping her at 4,000 RPMS when she hates 3,000 rpms. Need to do something about that seat!
 

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It's a good mark for a Fall ride when you have to strip off layers you left the house in then put them back on before you're back home. 8 and a quarter hours today to add about 550 kms to the Versys' ODO. Great sights along the North shore of Lake Erie! Crazy mail box too!
 

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What seat do you have on your Versys? Looks like the Corbin?

It's a good mark for a Fall ride when you have to strip off layers you left the house in then put them back on before you're back home. 8 and a quarter hours today to add about 550 kms to the Versys' ODO. Great sights along the North shore of Lake Erie! Crazy mail box too!
 

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Purchased the seat used from a forum member who had it built to spec. Slightly lower than stock, much wider and more comfortable, wider for teh pillion too. First owner used it for about 3 or 4 months before deciding on some design changes and ordering a second Adcox seat. I've had it for about 4 years and 40,000 kms now. It is very comfortable. I have gone on some very long tours (7, 8 thousand kms in 12 days) with it.

More common to see a flatter version of the Adcox seat on the V (see seat posts from weljo) This one was built with a passenger in mind.
 

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I "did" the valves on my '15 650 (second time). Out of the eight valves, ALL four intakes were STILL at the MAX clearance end (L to R: .22mm, .22mm, .215mm, .22mm), while three of the four exhausts were tighter than I like at the MAX clearance end - altho' they were ALL w/in the limits, and they were (L to R: .295mm, .280mm, .275mm, .320mm), so I "sandpapered" the first three down.

When I finish the job later, I'll include their clearance values AFTER.

BTW - I spent FIVE hours doing them thus far (obviously I'm NOT a certified mechanic, tho' I have done valves on the V 650 around SEVEN times), so IF I was paying a Kawi service-man to do them....:censored:...!

OTOH - they were ALL w/in limits, so most mechanics would have just 'buttoned' it up...:nono:..., so LESS than five hours....
 

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Installed Motowerks (Speedy's) lowering kit on the rear of the bike today. I gave her a bath and took it out for a quick ride to note the difference. Obviously lower, but will be lower still when I've dropped the front . Easier to get on the bike and didn't notice any ill effects on the short ride. I wanted to keep my stock kickstand intact, so I ordered a Ninja one from ebay (this is before I heard that it's not a direct bolt on). I'll take a look to see what needs to be modified and I'll probably proceed if I don't have to grind on my frame, grinding on the Ninja kickstand is ok. Kickstand just showed up late today as it was delayed from Florida for some reason.
 

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I "did" the valves on my '15 650 (second time). Out of the eight valves, ALL four intakes were STILL at the MAX clearance end (L to R: .22mm, .22mm, .215mm, .22mm), while three of the four exhausts were tighter than I like at the MAX clearance end - altho' they were ALL w/in the limits, and they were (L to R: .295mm, .280mm, .275mm, .320mm), so I "sandpapered" the first three down.

When I finish the job later, I'll include their clearance values AFTER.

BTW - I spent FIVE hours doing them thus far (obviously I'm NOT a certified mechanic, tho' I have done valves on the V 650 around SEVEN times), so IF I was paying a Kawi service-man to do them....:censored:...!

OTOH - they were ALL w/in limits, so most mechanics would have just 'buttoned' it up...:nono:..., so LESS than five hours....
Finished doing the valves yesterday, so here are some observations for those w/ Gen 3 650s:

I installed a "Bikemaster" air-filter about 17,000 kms ago (10K+ miles), and pics one and two show how clean it still is, so I just re-installed it.





Pic 3 shows the top of my engine w/ the fuel injection throttle-bodies system removed - it gives WAY-Y-Y better access, and is NOT difficult to do.



The next 6 show MY solution for re-installing the "cam-chain-tensioner" on the Gen 3s - seems to be way more difficult to install than it was/ IS in my Gen 1 Vs.

The central "cap-bolt" is VERY difficult to get back IN, and started threading against the pressure from the spring. I FINALLY cut my 'obstruction' 12mm/13mm wrench into two pieces; determined at which point the cap-bolt threads STARTED to engage (did THAT w/out the spring, then marked the bolt at the 12 o'clock position); then re-installed the spring and w/ the HALF wrench on the cap-bolt was able to PUSH it in while the aprox. 90 degrees I could turn the shorter wrench allowed me to 'engage' the threads and continue turning it till it was seated.











THIS 'modification' made it significantly easier to finish the job!

:thumb: - :thumb:
 

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I recently installed some bike master heated grips and the vstrom hand guards. very nice. Had a guy offer to trade his 2013 KTM 690 Duke with 6500m for my 09 650 Versys with 19000m. Thought about it for a while... came to the conclusion that I would miss my versus every time I rode the lighter, faster, more powerful bike. I realized that since i have owned this bike I have never got off the bike and said "If only this bike was______". This bike is just reliable, comfortable and FUN! Thats why we ride it. I have put more miles on this year and have not HAD to do anything to it.
 

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Purchased the seat used from a forum member who had it built to spec. Slightly lower than stock, much wider and more comfortable, wider for teh pillion too. First owner used it for about 3 or 4 months before deciding on some design changes and ordering a second Adcox seat. I've had it for about 4 years and 40,000 kms now. It is very comfortable. I have gone on some very long tours (7, 8 thousand kms in 12 days) with it.

More common to see a flatter version of the Adcox seat on the V (see seat posts from weljo) This one was built with a passenger in mind.


My flat Terry Adcock Seat...Real comfortable and you can slide back to streatch your legs a bit. If you have a passenger not the seat to get...

IMG_1489 by weljo2001, on Flickr

IMG_1491 by weljo2001, on Flickr

IMG_1493 by weljo2001, on Flickr
 

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I filled out a online info form and yet to hear back from him....no biggie really since I already have my Russell day long seat production date. Just counting the days until I ship my stock seat in.
 

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I filled out a online info form and yet to hear back from him....no biggie really since I already have my Russell day long seat production date. Just counting the days until I ship my stock seat in.


Russell Day Longs are nice. I had one...Along with a Baldwin Tall, Terry Adcock, Corbin, Seat Concepts and 2 Kawasaki Gel Seats. All of them better than the stocker....:smile2:
 

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Finished doing the valves yesterday, so here are some observations for those w/ Gen 3 650s:

I installed a "Bikemaster" air-filter about 17,000 kms ago (10K+ miles), and pics one and two show how clean it still is, so I just re-installed it.

Pic 3 shows the top of my engine w/ the fuel injection throttle-bodies system removed - it gives WAY-Y-Y better access, and is NOT difficult to do.

The next 6 show MY solution for re-installing the "cam-chain-tensioner" on the Gen 3s - seems to be way more difficult to install than it was/ IS in my Gen 1 Vs.

The central "cap-bolt" is VERY difficult to get back IN, and started threading against the pressure from the spring. I FINALLY cut my 'obstruction' 12mm/13mm wrench into two pieces; determined at which point the cap-bolt threads STARTED to engage (did THAT w/out the spring, then marked the bolt at the 12 o'clock position); then re-installed the spring and w/ the HALF wrench on the cap-bolt was able to PUSH it in while the aprox. 90 degrees I could turn the shorter wrench allowed me to 'engage' the threads and continue turning it till it was seated.

THIS 'modification' made it significantly easier to finish the job!

:thumb: - :thumb:
Too bad you didn't see my http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1428418-post9.html and post 8. My cam chain tensioner bolt went in by hand two full turns, no wrench required and I used three fingers, absolutely easy, the breaker bar was key to success . And I have your excellent advice from your previous valve shim attributing to me finding a solution. Also a FYI, if you leave the main TPS wire hanging in the air it is very similar to running like crap and no fast idle, did a vacuum sync then decided to tighten the clamps for the air box, easier to see with the sensor unplugged, it worked out for the best because now I know what the bike sounds and runs like when the sensor fails:grin2:
 

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- Completed installation of LED driving lights on the engine guards. Triggered their relay with the high beam.
- installed rubber washers between the rear rack mounts and the grab handles to reduce vibration.
- Added 1" breathable mesh between the sheepskin seat cover and 3/4" neoprene foam pad, which I also hollowed out to reduce coccyx pressure.
- Adjusted chain and aligned rear wheel correctly. The stealership had over torqued the axle nut as it took my 200+lbs bouncing on a 3' breaker bar to get the nut to move. The right side adjuster took 3 additional flats of rotation to get the chain running true.
 
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