It's a good mark for a Fall ride when you have to strip off layers you left the house in then put them back on before you're back home. 8 and a quarter hours today to add about 550 kms to the Versys' ODO. Great sights along the North shore of Lake Erie! Crazy mail box too!
Finished doing the valves yesterday, so here are some observations for those w/ Gen 3 650s:I "did" the valves on my '15 650 (second time). Out of the eight valves, ALL four intakes were STILL at the MAX clearance end (L to R: .22mm, .22mm, .215mm, .22mm), while three of the four exhausts were tighter than I like at the MAX clearance end - altho' they were ALL w/in the limits, and they were (L to R: .295mm, .280mm, .275mm, .320mm), so I "sandpapered" the first three down.
When I finish the job later, I'll include their clearance values AFTER.
BTW - I spent FIVE hours doing them thus far (obviously I'm NOT a certified mechanic, tho' I have done valves on the V 650 around SEVEN times), so IF I was paying a Kawi service-man to do them.......!
OTOH - they were ALL w/in limits, so most mechanics would have just 'buttoned' it up...:nono:..., so LESS than five hours....
Purchased the seat used from a forum member who had it built to spec. Slightly lower than stock, much wider and more comfortable, wider for teh pillion too. First owner used it for about 3 or 4 months before deciding on some design changes and ordering a second Adcox seat. I've had it for about 4 years and 40,000 kms now. It is very comfortable. I have gone on some very long tours (7, 8 thousand kms in 12 days) with it.
More common to see a flatter version of the Adcox seat on the V (see seat posts from weljo) This one was built with a passenger in mind.
I filled out a online info form and yet to hear back from him....no biggie really since I already have my Russell day long seat production date. Just counting the days until I ship my stock seat in.
Too bad you didn't see my http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1428418-post9.html and post 8. My cam chain tensioner bolt went in by hand two full turns, no wrench required and I used three fingers, absolutely easy, the breaker bar was key to success . And I have your excellent advice from your previous valve shim attributing to me finding a solution. Also a FYI, if you leave the main TPS wire hanging in the air it is very similar to running like crap and no fast idle, did a vacuum sync then decided to tighten the clamps for the air box, easier to see with the sensor unplugged, it worked out for the best because now I know what the bike sounds and runs like when the sensor fails:grin2:Finished doing the valves yesterday, so here are some observations for those w/ Gen 3 650s:
I installed a "Bikemaster" air-filter about 17,000 kms ago (10K+ miles), and pics one and two show how clean it still is, so I just re-installed it.
Pic 3 shows the top of my engine w/ the fuel injection throttle-bodies system removed - it gives WAY-Y-Y better access, and is NOT difficult to do.
The next 6 show MY solution for re-installing the "cam-chain-tensioner" on the Gen 3s - seems to be way more difficult to install than it was/ IS in my Gen 1 Vs.
The central "cap-bolt" is VERY difficult to get back IN, and started threading against the pressure from the spring. I FINALLY cut my 'obstruction' 12mm/13mm wrench into two pieces; determined at which point the cap-bolt threads STARTED to engage (did THAT w/out the spring, then marked the bolt at the 12 o'clock position); then re-installed the spring and w/ the HALF wrench on the cap-bolt was able to PUSH it in while the aprox. 90 degrees I could turn the shorter wrench allowed me to 'engage' the threads and continue turning it till it was seated.
THIS 'modification' made it significantly easier to finish the job!
:thumb: - :thumb: