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I took the ABS fuse out and went for a long ride, stopping every 40kms or so and turning the bike off and on again.

The ABS fuse also services the speed sensor so that when disconnected there is no speed indication, and therefore no "range remaining", and the odo and trip meters are frozen. After 120kms I replaced the fuse and rode a further 60kms home. The fault and the check engine light will not reset.

I'm guessing that like other Versys the speed sensor works off the countershaft sprocket. My next experiment will be to go back to a larger rear sprocket and buy a 16 tooth front sprocket that I now know will fit.

I'll also disconnect the battery overnight.

p.s. the two fault codes displayed by holding the two dash buttons are 24 and 25.
Don't forget to do the key switch thing--also If it was me I would put both sprockets back to stock and work from there-16 just might be to much for the ECM to handle-but may work with a 15 and stock rear
 

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Gearing Change.

I disconnecting my battery overnight in an effort to cancel the "check engine" light caused by changing the rear sprocket. It didn't work.

I will need the dealer to do it - but first I'll change the gearing otherwise it will surely just do it again - so first I will order and fit a 16 tooth front and go back to the 46 tooth rear. There is sure to be a little Asian somewhere in Kawasaki who actually knows what is happening and what the options are but I guess there is slim chance of getting any information from them. So I'll just try this and that until I have exhausted all options.

Perhaps I will even put an email through to Kawasaki. Chances are they know nothing and care even less but we live in hope.
 

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Brockie I did contact the service manger of the dealer I bought the bike from and he said he had not known this, he did say he would
pass the info on to his contact at Kawasaki . Maybe if we all did this it would help.
 

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Brockie I did contact the service manger of the dealer I bought the bike from and he said he had not known this, he did say he would
pass the info on to his contact at Kawasaki . Maybe if we all did this it would help.
I agree. They cannot be expected to address an issue that Kawasaki knows nothing about. It was always my intention to gear up as even for a dirt bike 1st is so useless and the X-300 is not a dirt bike. Even the stock Ninja 14/42 would be more appropriate.

And I need to have the dealer cancel the fault codes anyway. Cheers.
 

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looking for some plain old info from some who owns x300 and has done this. which size sprocket works the Best for the rear only' to get a little more speed and lower rmp? I was thinking 2 teeth small? And does anyone know of a (kaw ver-x300 mods website. SEAT mods, snorkey remove mod- commander programmer install- others farkels ect
 

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15/42 Gearing

I had 2nd thoughts on gearing and wondered if I could fool the ABS/ECU by staying 1 up on the front at 15 and going back up 4 on the rear to 42.

This gearing is more realistic for the VX300's power output. The 38 rear I fitted was too big a step. Now to visit a Kawasaki dealer and have the "check engine" light cancelled. And then wait to see if it comes back. The speedo now shows an indicated 95 km/h at 6,000 rpm (59mph) and feels good. I'll have to connect a GPS to confirm the actual speed but it does seem close.

Incidentally, the ABS still works. Even thought the "check engine" light comes up and with fault codes 24 and 25, the ABS light goes off as you pull away indicating that it is working - so why? Surely an ABS fault should cause the ABS to fail?

I am not convinced that the engine fault will be permanently cured but will wait and see before involving Kawasaki in a cure, and reverting to stock gearing is to my mind not a cure. Surely I am not the first ABS bike/car owner to desire non stock gearing?
 

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Plenty of Versys 650 owners swapping out front/rear sprockets without diagnostics throwing out codes. As motorboy stated, sounds like this anomaly is Versys-X ABS model related :(
 

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I had 2nd thoughts on gearing and wondered if I could fool the ABS/ECU by staying 1 up on the front at 15 and going back up 4 on the rear to 42.

This gearing is more realistic for the VX300's power output. The 38 rear I fitted was too big a step. Now to visit a Kawasaki dealer and have the "check engine" light cancelled. And then wait to see if it comes back. The speedo now shows an indicated 95 km/h at 6,000 rpm (59mph) and feels good. I'll have to connect a GPS to confirm the actual speed but it does seem close.

Incidentally, the ABS still works. Even thought the "check engine" light comes up and with fault codes 24 and 25, the ABS light goes off as you pull away indicating that it is working - so why? Surely an ABS fault should cause the ABS to fail?

I am not convinced that the engine fault will be permanently cured but will wait and see before involving Kawasaki in a cure, and reverting to stock gearing is to my mind not a cure. Surely I am not the first ABS bike/car owner to desire non stock gearing?
No going back to stock is not a cure- but what IF it's not the gearing and the faults just happen to come on when you changed sprockets you will never know unless to start from stock...
 

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No going back to stock is not a cure- but what IF it's not the gearing and the faults just happen to come on when you changed sprockets you will never know unless to start from stock...
Others with the ABS model have ended up with the same fault after regearing so it's a good indication that the fault is a result of the gearing change.
I'm still interested to hear from anyone with the ABS version who has regeared and not ended up with a 24/25 fault code.
 

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Re-gearing Causes Engine Fault Light

Re-gearing your X300 ABS brings up the "engine fault" light and causes your gear indicator to go dead.

From comparing notes with others this only seems to affect the ABS version. I'm attempting to get some sort of consensus on this issue before going to Kawasaki. I'm reasonably confident that the Kawasaki distributor, and most dealers have no knowledge of it.

I have geared my Versys-X 300 up from stock 14/46 to 15/42 as 1st gear was useless and this bike is intended as an adventure tourer which means open road speeds as well. I can still easily start off in 2nd gear. I'm also aware that many other motorcycles with ABS have been re-geared to the owners preference without any issues - the Versys 650 for instance. I have manually cancelled the fault light but it just keeps coming back.

Can anyone here who has experienced an issue with re-gearing (or not experienced an issue) please respond to this thread so that together we might be able to show Kawasaki cause to address it. Thanks. Brockie.
 

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Assuming X300 is similar to Versys 650

I copied a old post to this thread. I also combined the original thread, of which I read today for the first time. The Versys 650 had 2 fuses, one for the ABS pulsing and one for the sensor/relay/ communication. Clearing codes hasn't changed over the model years, however the X300 could be a different animal.FYI just trying to help here. A electrical drawing would be helpful.
 

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could it just be a coincidence that you got the light after you changed gearing? Did you switch back to the stock gearing just to see if the ight stays off?
 

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There is a manual way to clear the code I suspect if you went back to stock gearing it would not come back but the stock gearing is silly low. Every red light you are in a panic when the light changes to get up to speed. A 16 Tooth front change the rpm by 1000. So at 57mph
you are going 6000rpm instead of 7000rpm. If clear the code the error code comes back
after a few miles of riding.
 

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I think we have been all over this before--maybe go back and reread it
My post was originally a new thread starter specifically for those who have had an electronics issue when re-gearing - or even for those with an ABS model who have re-geared with no problems but onewizard thought it best to put my post back in this thread.
I was attempting to collate the numbers of ABS riders who have re-geared, and at what point that re-gearing causes an issue.
The fact that re-gearing causes a 24/25 engine fault is no longer in doubt.
Any distributors first response would normally be to fob it off as a one-off issue.
 
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Combined New Thread For a Reason

I think we have been all over this before--maybe go back and reread it

I took that post to be directed at me, as a mod I try not to take things personally and need to keep a open mind, since much of the changes and modifications and moderating falls under the mods , I sometimes don't get the opportunity to read every new thread,that happened to be the case of the new thread,I did a search and found the thread Sprockets/Re-gearing Causes Engine Fault Light explaining everything . Somehow I ended up with my post as a thread starter, deleting my post would delete the whole new thread, so I copied the following posts to the old thread and changed the Title to reflect on the changes,just so no one else gets offended by repeating something,that has already been discussed.

My post was originally a new thread starter specifically for those who have had an electronics issue when re-gearing - or even for those with an ABS model who have re-geared with no problems but onewizard thought it best to put my post back in this thread.
I was attempting to collate the numbers of ABS riders who have re-geared, and at what point that re-gearing causes an issue.
The fact that re-gearing causes a 24/25 engine fault is no longer in doubt.
Any distributors first response would normally be to fob it off as a one-off issue.
Your original new thread would have been post 50, my post that I deleted was 51, and motorboy response would have been 52.

When it comes to electrical, I can say there are very few people in the world able to do what I did before retirement and still consult at. What I don't have access to is the design of the ECU and mapping, from a troubleshooting perspective, I try and share my knowledge, that is why there is a How To forum on this site, and why I have developed tests for the stator and the Polaris Regulator install, to name a few, there are other equally smart people on this forum, and whenever I see a person with that ability and a helpful post, it gets copied to the How To forum. FYI there is a electrical flaw on every Kawasaki 650 motor made, I tried contacting Kawasaki Canada, they aren't interested, unless it could cause damage or injury, no worries.
 

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After reading all 57 posts

Post 54 states;The speedo is not affected on 300 when you regear it.

The pickup sensor at the counter shaft sends a pulse to the ECU, this is scaled to equal the actual speed. We also have a crankshaft position sensor , used to determine engine rpm.What some of the early after market gear position sensors did was use the speed sensor and rpm sensor , running the motor at 30% of red line RPM in each gear to teach the gear indicator,for each gear, to re -teach it involved grounding a white wire, telling it how many gears it had etc. and starting all over. I happen to have one of those, but never installed it.
The conflict with the ABS could be a electronic error / wiring problem. Since the ABS is to detect rotational difference between the front and rear wheel, how that ties in with the gearing I can't answer, and it shouldn't. If I had a full electrical drawing I am sure that I could shed some light on this subject.
If the speedo is functioning normally with 15 or 16 tooth sprockets, the problem is else ware, and quite possibly what I just said, a wiring error and conflict between engine rpm and speed sensor in relation to the gear indicator.
 

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I took that post to be directed at me, as a mod I try not to take things personally and need to keep a open mind, since much of the changes and modifications and moderating falls under the mods , I sometimes don't get the opportunity to read every new thread,that happened to be the case of the new thread,I did a search and found the thread Sprockets/Re-gearing Causes Engine Fault Light explaining everything . Somehow I ended up with my post as a thread starter, deleting my post would delete the whole new thread, so I copied the following posts to the old thread and changed the Title to reflect on the changes,just so no one else gets offended by repeating something,that has already been discussed.



Your original new thread would have been post 50, my post that I deleted was 51, and motorboy response would have been 52.

When it comes to electrical, I can say there are very few people in the world able to do what I did before retirement and still consult at. What I don't have access to is the design of the ECU and mapping, from a troubleshooting perspective, I try and share my knowledge, that is why there is a How To forum on this site, and why I have developed tests for the stator and the Polaris Regulator install, to name a few, there are other equally smart people on this forum, and whenever I see a person with that ability and a helpful post, it gets copied to the How To forum. FYI there is a electrical flaw on every Kawasaki 650 motor made, I tried contacting Kawasaki Canada, they aren't interested, unless it could cause damage or injury, no worries.
My post was not directed at you but to Brockie--he's the one having the problem-he has all the info he needs through these post to figure out what is going on-but for some reason he doesn't want to except it-I can do no more
 
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