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Guys,
I'm presently riding an '04 KLR650, and '03 Bandit 1200S, and I do pretty much all my own maintenance. I'm considering a Versys, but want info on valve adjusting. How often, how 'challenging'?
Thanks.
Ed:huh:
 

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Valve Clearance

My owner's manual says to check the valve clearance after 15,000 miles. I don't know how hard it is to check. All I can think of is how much the Kawasaki dealer probably charges you to check it.
 

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My manual for my 08 says it needs to be checked every 26,000 miles. The dealer said it would be about $180 to perform the valve check.
 

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shim under bucket

They are shim under bucket style, bulletproof and long lasting adjustments..... which also means you have to remove the camshafts to swap different size shims when adjusting. The bonus is that to inspect ( measure) you only need to remove the valve cover and use feeler guages. V/c gaskets are rubber and reusable so I'd do the inspections yourself and then if they do need to actually be adjusted, get a qualified mechanic to do that part for you. If you don't time it correctly putting it back together after an adjustment, you definately won't have saved any money in the long run...............:eek:
 

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I talked to a very good motorcycle mechanic who said he has seen a decent amount of people really screw up doing their own valve adjustment. Not so much the valves, but how they put it all together again.

Cost them BIG bucks to fix. As seldom as it actually needs to get done, best leave it to the pros, IMO. Just getting measurements though is not bad. Even then, care should be taken.
 

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The last bike I had that didn't have shims under buckets was a '91 Katana. Once you get used to the idea that you have to remove the camshafts, actually doing it is not that difficult. But, as mentioned above, you have to do a good job of assembling everything right, so that the timing is not off. It's not that difficult. I've done it on V-Twins and V-Fours that are much more of a pain, because you have two sets of cams with different timing. Adjusting valves on a parallel twin is trivial after that... ;)

I've seen several reports of tight exhaust valves when checked at or before the 15K interval specified for the US and Canada (interesting to note that Euro bikes list 26K as the inspection interval), so I wouldn't skip the inspection/adjustment. My guess is that after this initial adjustment, if you set the valves to the middle of the range, they will likely not need another adjustment in a long time.


Gustavo
 

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What diameter are the shims for the Versys valves?
Replacement 7.48 mm diameter shims are only available in 0.05 mm increments.

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/2054-kawasaki-2008-versys-KLE650-A8F/assemblies/41017

http://www.powersports360.com/eshopprod_cat_5326-6058-5416_product_678195.HOT_CAMS_REFILL_VALVE_SHIM_PAC.htm?utm_source=VersaFeed&utm_medium=VersaFeed&utm_content=Hot+Cams+Refill+Valve+Shim+Packages&utm_campaign=base&v_traceback=c0131_2320_f0201_1734

I switched a couple valve shims around and thinned a few to have all my inlet valve lash clearances at 0.18 mm, and exhaust at 0.26 mm... At 4600 miles, I already had an exhaust clearance just under minimum spec.

My measurements.
Exhaust: 0.24, 0.26 / 0.27, 0.21 mm
Inlet: 0.20, 0.17 / 0.18, 0.17 mm

Specified allowable range.
Exhaust: 0.22 - 0.31 mm (0.0087 - 0.0122 in.)
Inlet: 0.15 - 0.21 mm (0.0059 - 0.0083 in.)
 

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(interesting to note that Euro bikes list 26K as the inspection interval),

Gustavo

15,000 miles is about 24,000 kilometres. Euro specs are undoubtedly using Km's - I'll bet a Canadian Owners manual says 26,000 Km as well.

Rub
 

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I switched a couple valve shims around and thinned a few ...
How did you thin the shims, i.e., Emery Cloth or Valve Lapping Compound on a flat surface like glass, etc. or what?

Also, are these shims case-hardened and if so, do you know how much you can take off before getting thru the surface hardening?

Thanks
 

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I talked to a very good motorcycle mechanic who said he has seen a decent amount of people really screw up doing their own valve adjustment. Not so much the valves, but how they put it all together again.

Cost them BIG bucks to fix. As seldom as it actually needs to get done, best leave it to the pros, IMO. Just getting measurements though is not bad. Even then, care should be taken.
Good info, that is what I was thinking! Not for the novice to try!:exactly:
 

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I used wet fine emery cloth on a flat wooden table. They seem to be the same hardness all the way through. The shims are not subject to wear, sitting snuggly withing the valve retainers under the lifter. They would have to wear considerably to cause the clearance to increase, or to not decrease as it usually does.

You can get this 0-25 mm metric micrometer in padded wood case from WholeSale Tool Co. for $10.75 plus shipping with the 10% off "newcus" discount code. (code valid till May 2nd)

http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/17073/nm/Metric_Micrometers_WT_Import_


 

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15,000 miles is about 24,000 kilometres. Euro specs are undoubtedly using Km's - I'll bet a Canadian Owners manual says 26,000 Km as well.

Rub

No it clearly states 26,600 MILES or 42 (I think)KM's, UK measures in miles, and the UK owners manual and service manual are very clear on the miles part, they list it as miles and then the km conversion. The best answer I got for the difference in the USA was because of emissions. If the valves get out of spec the bike can give off more emissions, so they lowered our checking procedure to ensure the valves are kept within a tight spec.
 

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Tight? Anyone else? 2009 KLE650

My check at just under 17k miles, which I performed myself, led me to the following: Using a feeler gage set, I slid the in tolerance gage in with a little push, and the gage snapped into the gap. The next smaller gage, which is out of tol, slid in nicely.

So I am right at the tight tolerance in all valves. At least they are all the same. But at the limit of the tolerance on the tight side I am concerned.

Will be checking them again at 20K, but I was wondering if anyone else has experienced a need for changing the shims for tight measurements. What was your mileage, measurements if possible? Also curious if dealer/mech made you pay or was willing to swap the shims. Thanks for any assistance.
 

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I checked mine at 17k and one exhaust was close to the limit, but within spec. I'll check again at the end of this riding season and will probably bring them all into the middle of the spec.
 

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The best answer I got for the difference in the USA was because of emissions. If the valves get out of spec the bike can give off more emissions, so they lowered our checking procedure to ensure the valves are kept within a tight spec.
I'm not sure this explanation is correct. First, valve lash has little if anything to do with emissions. And second, even if it did, Europe (in general) is so much more stringent than N.A. (in general), when it comes to atmospheric polutants, that it would be European bikes with the more frequent valve inspection intervals. I've wondered about this question myself and thought maybe it had to do with the severity of our winters or maybe Kawasaki thinks we drive on dirt roads year-round. Who knows?
 

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My check at just under 17k miles, which I performed myself, led me to the following: Using a feeler gage set, I slid the in tolerance gage in with a little push, and the gage snapped into the gap. The next smaller gage, which is out of tol, slid in nicely.
Did you use a standard feeler gauge that reads in 1/1000 inch increments? The 0.008" feeler gauge fit on the exhaust valves, but not a 0.009"? A 0.005" fit on the inlet valves, but not a 0.006"?
 

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The only issue to doing it your self is to mark the link on the chain and the tooth that goes in it to retain timing. Also to use some wire to keep the chain from dropping down into the cylinder. Be careful keeping it tight as it can jump teeth on the bottom.
 
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