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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Folks,
New to the forum. Not currently a Versys owner, but I'm considering a new V650 or V1000.
Reading through the "Series Regulator / Why Bother??" thread makes me a bit apprehensive though.
Is stator failure an inevitability on the Versys?
Is this a feature of all the Versys years and models?
Is there a certain milage this takes place?
Just curious.
Thanks!:smile2:
 

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It's kinda like putting overflow tubes on Connie carbbies or upgrading the dohickey on a KLR. Relatively minor operations/improvements to stave off a major issue. Although a burned stator isn't quite the results that you would get if you are unlucky enough to suffer the affects that can happen by not doing the dohickey or overflow tubes. In those instances you may very well grenade the engine.

It doesn't happen to everybody but it happens often enough for a prudent person to consider it. The 650 does have up to six years of warranty so you could just not worry about it. I do extended traveling with mine so I really don't want to have to deal with an avoidable issue that could tie up the bike for over a week minimum, probably more.
 

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I've had a ninja 650 (same engine) and changed the failed stator at around 100'000km.

My current versys 650 is at 67'000 km. I watch my added voltmeter every ride and it only recently went from the steady 14.1 to 14.0 V (your steady voltage at 5000 rpm may be different, but the fact that it changed is important - for instance, if mine goes up from 14.1 to 14.4, I know I have a burned headlight bulb!). Is a drop of 0.1V a sign of things to come? Or just the load of the fan by hot days? I will know next cool morning...

I think you can live with the prospect of changing a stator after that much mileage. I do, because it represents a tiny amount compared to tires and fuel. I think this is a normal life for a stator too. A Quick search indicate that other brands have worse problems in less mileage.

Go ahead and buy!
 

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1. Is stator failure an inevitability on the Versys?
2. Is this a feature of all the Versys years and models?
3. Is there a certain mileage this takes place?
Just curious.
Thanks!:smile2:
1. No
2. Yes
3. No, and it MIGHT NOT Happen.

It DID happen on my '08 [at about 65,000 miles] so I replaced the stator and put in a "series" regulator, a Polaris. BECAUSE of that I replaced the regulator in my '15 w/ another Polaris one.

I've had a ninja 650 (same engine) and changed the failed stator at around 100'000km.
Go ahead and buy!
:thumb: - :thumb:
 

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While we're on the subject I have a question (maybe a dumb one) about the issue as well. Is the stator issue a direct result of adding on additional electrical accessories, or were some having the issue on completely stock V's and is just a poorly designed part? Obviously i understand that anything can fail for any reason at any time on anything mechanical, but thought maybe the increased load might be increasing the odds.
 

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i just changed out my stator and regulator with r and m parts. i bought them years ago and finally put them in because i have about 52k on the bike. but everything was working fine. the new stator and regulator worked fine for about 400 miles then my volt meter dropped down to 11.5 volts and i headed for home. putting the old reg back changes nothing. is my problem likely the new stator?
 

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i just changed out my stator and regulator with r and m parts. i bought them years ago and finally put them in because i have about 52k on the bike. but everything was working fine. the new stator and regulator worked fine for about 400 miles then my volt meter dropped down to 11.5 volts and i headed for home. putting the old reg back changes nothing. is my problem likely the new stator?
Or could be a bad connection. I lost charging on my recent trip. Got out the volt meter and traced it to a bad connection at the regulator(Polaris). Having a volt indicator on the dash saved a whole bunch of hassle.
 
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I put one of these into BIG RED, my '08 in AZ, and THEN added a digital volt-meter, as this one is NEARLY impossible to see in day-light.

...Very similar to Signal dynamics Heads Up voltage monitor , readily available US and Canada https://www.jpcycles.com/product/382-167/signal-dynamics-corporation-heads-up-voltage-monitor-early-warning-system?v=1

I have a "Signal dynamics Heads Up voltage monitor" on my '15 (had it on my '09 till I had it 'written-off'), and it's the CAT'S MEOW!!!

>:)
 

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I put one of these into BIG RED, my '08 in AZ, and THEN added a digital volt-meter, as this one is NEARLY impossible to see in day-light.



I have a "Signal dynamics Heads Up voltage monitor" on my '15 (had it on my '09 till I had it 'written-off'), and it's the CAT'S MEOW!!!

>:)
Sparkbright has different models, some, the eclipse series, have auto dimming and bright. I have the eclipse and it works well, sun light or in the dark. I'll have to show you in AZ this winter. We can compare our "units".

:eek: :thumb::cheers:
 

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Neat Little Voltmeter

I would never go back to the signal dynamics unless I was challenged to find enough real-estate for the neat little voltmeter, for those in the electrical field, many digital meters also have a bar graph, as the processor is changing the digital readout slower than the bar graph, between the colour green ( something like 0.3 VDC for each led), and the fact it is left to right illuminating, very similar to a bar graph like this one


I still recommend this one
, as the accuracy and build is superior to anything I have come across for the $$$, I mentioned before in another post that I tried to destroy it using a pressure washer:frown2:, no luck, it is still working 100%. I now see other places carrying them and jacking up the $$$$
 

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I like onewizard's recommendation. Its nice looking and simple to install.

After reading all the posts about the stator, I was concerned at first, but then I realized with all the info and good people here, I could fix it myself if needed. Hard part would be money for the parts. If you aren't scared to wrench on your bike, then get what you like riding and go test ride some things.

The upright position on the Versys is what sold me in 2008 when they came out. I got a 2009 Versys last year with 16500 miles on it with no fear.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you all for your replies, and thank you onewizard for all of your information on this subject.

Your replies have eliminated my apprehension about buying a new Versys.:smile2:
 

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A bit of a follow up on my lack of charging issue. It has happened two more times. I diagnosed this as a bad connection on the battery positive wire coming out of the regulator. Obviously Positap connectors are not up to the task of carrying large current. Proper soldering connections are on today's project list.
 

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As in the title. I am a little baffled as to the positap comment, first I would ask is this under warranty ? Next, if not, is it the Furukawa FSW

Photo's would be helpfull. I would suggest to upgrade this winter to the Polaris 4016868, I expect some time in early 2019 to do a How To post on this regulator, sitting in my garage now, waiting to replace my CompuFire regulator .



Cycle Terminal

OEM Style - Japanese Motorcycle R&R Connectors - Furukawa FSW Series
View Cart

6 pin FSW sealed Voltage regulator - rectifier connector by Furukawa.

Some applications include


Furukawa FSW Series R&R Connectors
I have a Polaris style series regulator with the Triumph harness adaptation. Repair has been effected with use of a soldering gun. The negative wire from the regulator now goes directly to a ground point instead of the blk/yel wire. All is good with good voltages
 
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Frame Ground / Engine Ground / Negative Wire Terminal

I have a Polaris style series regulator with the Triumph harness adaptation. Repair has been effected with use of a soldering gun. The negative wire from the regulator now goes directly to a ground point instead of the blk/yel wire. All is good with good voltages
If you are tying into the engine ground NP, I have never heard of a member having a problem with the black / yellow tracer ground. You mentioned earlier a problem with the positive wire which is white / blue. I assume the blk/yel burnt back to the point that it was easier to go directly to ground, the heaviest wire gauge is directly from the battery negative post to engine ground. If this connection is oxide free and a good one, no problem, however be aware that steel is a poor conductor, that ground point is supplying 100 % of your load plus battery charging current.
 

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If you are tying into the engine ground NP, I have never heard of a member having a problem with the black / yellow tracer ground. You mentioned earlier a problem with the positive wire which is white / blue. I assume the blk/yel burnt back to the point that it was easier to go directly to ground, the heaviest wire gauge is directly from the battery negative post to engine ground. If this connection is oxide free and a good one, no problem, however be aware that steel is a poor conductor, that ground point is supplying 100 % of your load plus battery charging current.
The blk/yel connection was fine. I wanted to remove the Positap connector so I wired up the ground coming out of the regulator directly to a frame ground at the nearby bolt that holds the fairing cage.

The white wire coming out of the factory regulator showed signs of over heating at the point where the Positap was. I soldered the Triumph wire in at a different location. All is now good. Can't remember exact voltage at battery when idling but it was well up in the spec range.

I did leave the Positaps in place for the wires coming from the stator as the current is much less there.

I originally chose to use Positaps because it would be relatively easy to return the wiring to stock appearance and install the factory shunt regulator if I have a stator issue that would be covered under the extended warranty.

I currently have about 39k miles on the install. It took about 34k miles for this issue to come up.
 
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