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Discussion Starter #1
I am pretty satisfied from my configuration, but i want more :cool:

Lets see again the parts i installed

-Both cams from ninja650r/er-6
-Headers from er-6n
-Snorckels out
-Mivv x-cone with cut db killer to 2cm(gives more power to high end)
-14T front sprocket

I didnt do a dyno run, but the bike feels very good for the stock ecu map, and it is very fast for its capacity/cylinder(i had several bikes in the past and i can compare)

I want to do some little mods again, just to renew the love with this bike :lol:

-Cams-> intake-> stock versys intake cam
........->exhaust->ninja650r intake cam

-Trim the head for about an 1mm to raise the compression

-PCV+AUTOTUNE with a map of European er6n map(snorckels out + mivv exhaust db killer up)


What do u say about this?
 

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Some ER-6 owners have removed the cylinder base gasket to raise compression from 11.3:1 to about 12:1, so it would raise Versys compression from 10.6:1 to about 11.25:1.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
why not just plug in the ECU from the 6F/6N series and see how it runs? same part number, mount, and connector, should be plug and play.

Ι dont have a er6 ecu, and i will install PCV anyway, so it is not necessary

Invader i want to achive er6's compression, thats why i want to trim the head
 

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Simply removing the cylinder base gasket would have you at pretty damn close to ER6's compression.
An ER6 ECU would also be better adapted for use with ER6 cams and compression, PCV or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Simply removing the cylinder base gasket would have you at pretty damn close to ER6's compression.
An ER6 ECU would also be better adapted for use with ER6 cams and compression, PCV or not.
I am afraid to have a leak, otherwise removing the gasket is not a bad idea

Question about the ecu
If/when i will put a PCV, doesnt take completaly the control of the map?
Why is importand to have a er6's ecu installed?
 
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I've been using sealant in place of a base gasket for year on a TLs for exampe. But you need to check squish cerfully on these as are running fairly tight as is.

ER6 ECU will have different ignition timing, not to say fuel maps.
 

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does anyone know the stock base gasket thickness?
how about the head gasket? is it 1-piece, 3 piece, etc. thickness?
I'm tempted to do some headwork and a compression bump, too.
 

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does anyone know the stock base gasket thickness?
how about the head gasket? is it 1-piece, 3 piece, etc. thickness?
I'm tempted to do some headwork and a compression bump, too.
Cylinder base gasket is about 0.25 mm thick. Head gasket is a 3-layer steel, about 0.75 mm thick... You can remove the center layer of the head gasket, using copper head gasket sealer to seal the outer layers together. Such is BRP's prefered method, instead of removing base gasket. Lowering the cylinder also lowers any wear ridge at top of stroke.

http://www.brp650forum.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1670
 

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Honestly fellas, do you really think you would notice any gains by removing the cylinder base gasket? Consider the amount work involved........not worth the hassle.
 

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I agree, mcrider... We already have the best possible powerband. It's been engineered, refined and tested to run on regular gas. All the effort and money invested in attempting to tweak it will have an impact on its reliability and driveability.
 
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base or head gasket is not so much about compression as it is adjusting the squish. (the V's quite tight as is) Better mixing/burning/power at no detriment to the power band, quite the reverse. Worth it? its free HP but 2/3 Hp on my 133HP twin for example so no, not in isolation and nor unless engine down anyway. All good fun though/each to his own etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ι am close to take the decision to trim the head for about 0.5mm
If 0.25mm of cylinder gasket removal brings +0.7:1, then maybe 1mm of trim is too much
 

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Lowering the head also retards cam timing by as much (not a lot)... I'm not against modding, actually. None of my engines are ever left stock. I did remove sharp edges and smoothed out from the exhaust ports' outlets, smooth matched the intake flanges, advanced ignition timing, replaced exhaust, removed subthrottle plates and exhaust PAIR valve... A thorough porting job with the valves removed from the head wile the head is off would yield better gains. The squish band needs to be measured to determine optimum head shaving rate, and possible remachining of the combustion chamber.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, Invader, but you could remove the cylinder base gasket WITHOUT pulling the cylinder by 'pulling' the head, then gently raising the cylinder (pistons at TDC) about 1/2" and VERY gently lifting and 'sectioning' the base gasket with care not to get any into the crankcase then removing the pieces. :goodluck:
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, Invader, but you could remove the cylinder base gasket WITHOUT pulling the cylinder by 'pulling' the head, then gently raising the cylinder (pistons at TDC) about 1/2" and VERY gently lifting and 'sectioning' the base gasket with care not to get any into the crankcase then removing the pieces. :goodluck:
Only one piston is at TDC at a time on this 180 degree parallel twin. I think it would be better and easier at that point to remove the cylinder block for better access, to insure a clean job without damaging the aluminum casings. Besides, you also need to apply a thin coat of sealant to seal it up without the gasket.
 
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Lowering the head also retards cam timing by as much (not a lot)... .
Correct, but by way of exanple, on my TL, nature of gearing, one tooth equates to almost 5 degrees, but on the dyno, that made effectively no difference, advanced or retarded, so will be a degree or two on the V I would guess.

I would'nt chance it removing height without checking the squish, not on stock rods anyway. Get some solder with grease to keep it place on the piston, torque down/turn over/measure.
 
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