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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

The last time I have created a post about maintenance. What I have done so far.
Oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs + gaskets, a new clutch cable, used ignition coil for replacement because one was cracked, new camchain head rubber gasket, rear brake pads.

After assembling my motorcycle back I realized that when I go full throttle at 2k+ rpm I hear kinda squeaky/friction sound. I wonder whenever the problem could be with camshaft assembly done by me.

But from the begining. I have disassembled the camshaft head and then:
  • remove camchain tensioner to check how far it has slid.
  • Assemble it back (after resetting it) with a new oring.
  • After that I have rotated the crankshaft a few times and I have set the crankshaft to 1|T.
  • Checked the camshaft, if the camshaft lobes face outward position.
  • Then I checked the clearances at inlet valves. Both inlet allowed 0.15mm gap gauge/feeler gauge, but didn't allow 0.21mm.
  • The same with exhaust clearances. 0.22 slides in, 0.31 didn't.

After that I moved the crankshaft to 2|T position.
  • 1st inlet allowed 0.23mm to slide in, but didn't allow 0.24mm, so that one needed an adjustment. Both 2nd inlet and exhaust were within spec.
  • Due to the fact that one shim was needed to be replaced I zip tied camchain to the camshafts at position 2|T, removed the tensioner and unscrewed camchain bridge. Then I unscrewed both inlet, exhaust camshaft bridges. I have kept in mind to remember about "sleeves/bushings" so that they are in their respective places.
  • At this point I have took out the inlet camshaft a little bit, for the sake od gaining an access to the shim.
  • I went to authorized kawasaki shop to get a new shim which fits the tolerances. The seller didn't have 2.90mm shim that I wanted (previous one was 2.85mm). He had either too thick (2.93/2.94) or too thin. After talk he suggested to leave the shim as it is (2.85mm) because a little too big gap is still better than too small, especially that this gap is going to get smaller throughout the time.

Okay... I started to assemble it back, but a problem appeared.
Inlet bridge did fit, but exhaust didn't want to get into position I didn't want to force it out with a hammer I started to slowly screw the bridge in.
Note: Of course I didn't forget about using a lot of oil/molybdenum mixed with prescribed ratio of 1:10. I talked about the problem with my friend and has a lot more experience than me. He told me that the reason why it doesn't want to set in easily is that lobes are pushing on valves thus the resistance that I feel. He also told me that i need to release that tension, by rotating the cranksnaft into a position which doesn't result in pushing any valves, so I have screwed in the inlet bridge (to avoid any problems while rotating crankshaft and then I have slowly turned crankshaft to the left, but not too much, just for the sake of releasing the tension so I can install bridges back in without forcing it back. I didn't feel any unwanted jump on the chain. After rotating it to the left, there was no resistance due to the positions of camshafts. Then I zip tied the camchain and camshafts again. I have put camshafts in their respective places, inserted bridges back - so far so good. I actually started to screw them in, only to realize that I made another mistske. The problem was that camchain bridge didn't want to fit in, but I quickly realized why, that's because there are those "disks" at the end of the camshafts and they need to fit in the holes @camchain bridge. I unscrewed both in and ex bridges, lifted them to release them and moved the camshaft so that it fitted that camchain bridge holes. Then I have placed everything by hand, lubricated it and I screwed it all in sequence stated by the manual using 12nm torque wrench.
I have instslled back the chain tensioner and I removed zip ties, applied new sparkplug seals, new head seal + silicone seal @ half circles area.

When I screwed in the screws, from time to time I rotated camshafts to check if they are not stuck and they weren't.
After assembling I checked valve clearances again. All were the same and the loose one got even looser by 0.01mm so, 0.24 slides in, 0.25 didn't. Before checking clearances i rotated the crankshaft several times. I felt as if compression was higher than before, more resistance during compression stroke or that might be just my imagination. When I replaced spark plugs we have noticed that the previous ones (Also NGK) were screwed in too lightly so even their crush washers were not even crushed.

After assembling my motorcycle back I have started it, it started immidiately. No issues at all.

So all was perfect until I started to push my motorcycle a little bit (to the 8/9k rpm).

Before I did test drive I have run the motorcycle, warmed it up then cooled it up while replacing rear brake pads.

First thing I noticed is that the fuel pump was kinda loud, but that migh be because of the fact that the tank was still supported by a rubber hammer underneath it.

No oil pressure warning or temp warning while running.

First run video

After warming it up I had a test drive.
First thing I noticed is that squeaky/friction sound when I go full throttle at certain rpm range 2-4k or something like that). That sound appears when the motorcycle is "loaded". By that I mean that I don't hear this sound when the clutch is pressed, So I thought it's maybe because of the new clutch cable I installed and since my spring (engine side) is broken and my clutch cable is adjusted according to manual (3 mm gap on the lever, 3-5mm gap on the lever adjust screw), it could cause it to be partially "unclutched?", so I have decreased the tension using lever adjuster, but it didn't resolve my problem.

I don't feel any drop in performance it's still quick. I hope it's not the camshaft that is making this frictive sound.

Any ideas?
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