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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone. This is my first comment related to this thread - Kawasaki Versys Forum > Kawasaki Versys-X 300 Forum > Versys-X 300 General Discussion > Versys x300 - Sprockets/Re-gearing Causes Engine Fault Light

My story is slightly different. I changed my rear sprocket to 38T keeping the original front (14T). It required 5 links from the stock chain to be removed. So, now transmission final reduction ratio is 2.714 (old one was 3.286). Everything was fine, but after 200 with something miles "check engine" came, and instead of the gear number on the display it shown just horizontal arrows. I checked the code; it was 25 - "Gear Position Sensor". The signal from the sensor to ECU was OK. It seemed like ECU problem, but the bike runs just fine. I decided to take my bike to the dealer, because ECU replacement on the Versys 300 cost about 1K. They confirmed my suspicions and placed an order for a new ECU, but Kawasaki disagreed. After more than a week negotiations, Kawasaki came to a conclusion that ECU is OK, but it accumulates errors from the transmission because of different reduction ratio. They suggested me to put original rear sprocket and see what happen. I said that it is impossible, because my chain is shortened for the smaller rear sprocket. I didn't expect so much stupidity from Kawasaki; since they made me a hard time while shortening the chain (it is a different story). I proposed to erase the code and will continue driving until the next time the code appears. They agreed. That time came two days ago after several hundred miles. I did the same procedure of checking signal from the sensor. Everything was OK, and I manually erased error code. 70 miles passed after that and the bike runs like nothing happened, no "check engine". Looks like ECU and sensor are good, but need reflash.
I was at dealership today and ask if they have technical abilities to reprogram ratio in the ECU firmware. The answer was that they need to talk to Kawasaki in such non-typical case and will call me back.

Just forget, my VX is non-ABS.

That is my story so far. To be continued...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
This is my first post of the required two. I have some information on Versys 300 error codes after sprocket change. It is discussed here - Kawasaki Versys-X 300 Forum > Versys-X 300 General Discussion > Versys x300 - Sprockets/Re-gearing Causes Engine Fault Light. Hope admin will redirect it. Thanks.

I changed my rear sprocket to 38T keeping the original front (14T). It required 5 links from the stock chain to be removed. So, now transmission final reduction ratio is 2.714 (old one was 3.286). Everything was fine, but after 200 with something miles "check engine" came, and instead of the gear number on the display it shown just horizontal arrows. I checked the code; it was 25 - "Gear Position Sensor". The signal from the sensor to ECU was OK. It seemed like ECU problem, but the bike runs just fine. I decided to take my bike to the dealer, because ECU replacement on the Versys 300 cost about 1K. They confirmed my suspicions and placed an order for a new ECU, but Kawasaki disagreed. After more than a week negotiations, Kawasaki came to a conclusion that ECU is OK, but it accumulates errors from the transmission because of different reduction ratio. They suggested me to put original rear sprocket and see what happen. I said that it is impossible, because my chain is shortened for the smaller rear sprocket. I didn't expect so much stupidity from Kawasaki; since they made me a hard time while shortening the chain (it is a different story). I proposed to erase the code and will continue driving until the next time the code appears. They agreed. That time came two days ago after several hundred miles. I did the same procedure of checking signal from the sensor. Everything was OK, and I manually erased error code. 70 miles passed after that and the bike runs like nothing happened, no "check engine". Looks like ECU and sensor are good, but need reflash.
I was at dealership today and ask if they have technical abilities to reprogram ratio in the ECU firmware. The answer was that they need to talk to Kawasaki in such non-typical case and will call me back.

Just forget, my VX is non-ABS.

That is my story so far. To be continued...

Addendum about chain:

Be careful if you want to change the rear sprocket to a smaller one. In most cases it requires to shorten the chain. Sounds like not a big deal, but the problem is that Kawasaki don't know what chain they install on the production line. I ordered master link (catalog 92058) at my local dealer, but it didn't fit to the stock chain. As appears, the pin diameter of the new master link was 5.36 mm, whereas in the stock chain it was 5.16 mm. The dealer contacted Kawasaki, they said it is absolutely impossible, and sent one more "true verified" link. Guess what? It didn't fit again. After two weeks talking between Kawasaki and the dealer they finally sent a new chain with a master link. Everybody knows that OEM chains never match the retail one (it is done on purpose), but the manufacturer should know the difference and have listed catalog parts matched to the production line parts. Seems not Kawasaki ...

As a result, it took long three and half weeks to remove five links from my VX chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Versys 300 information about service codes

This is my second post of the required two. I have some information on Versys 300 error codes. It is discussed here - Kawasaki Versys-X 300 Forum > Versys-X 300 General Discussion > Versys x300 - Sprockets/Re-gearing Causes Engine Fault Light. Hope admin will redirect it. Thanks.

Here is information about service codes.

How To Read Service Codes:

Turn on ignition.
Push the upper meter button to display the odometer.
Push the upper meter button and Iower meter button for more than 2 seconds.
The service code is displayed on the LCD instead of odometer. Multiple codes will be displayed in a sequence with the interval of 2 seconds.
Turn on/turn off the ignition to return the display to the normal operation mode.

How To Erase Service Codes:

Turn on the ignition and start the engine.
Keep the idling more than 30 seconds.
Run the bike for more than 5 minutes at a speed of 25 mph or more.
Stop. Turn the ignition switch off.
Repeat the above procedures 3 times.

Service Codes:

11 Main throttle sensor malfunction, wiring open or short.
12 Intake air pressure sensor malfunction, wiring open or short.
13 Intake air temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or short.
14 Water temperature sensor malfunction, wiring open or short.
21 Crankshaft sensor malfunction, wiring open or short
24 Rear wheel rotation sensor malfunction, wiring open or short.
25 Gear position sensor malfunction, wiring open or short.
31 Vehicle-down sensor malfunction, wiring open or short.
32 Sub throttle sensor malfunction, wiring open or short.
33 Oxygen sensor malfunction or Inactivate, wiring open or short.
39 ECU communication error
41 Fuel injector #1 malfunction, wiring open or short.
42 Fuel injector #2 malfunction, wiring open or short.
51 Stick coil #1 malfunction, wiring open or short.
52 Stick coil #2 malfunction, wiring open or short.
56 Radiator fan relay malfunction, wiring open or short.
62 Subthrottle valve actuator malfunction, wiring open or short.
64 Air switching valve malfunction, wiring open or short.
67 Oxygen sensor heater malfunction, wiring open or short.
94 Fuel supply system malfunction
3A Purge valve malfunction, wiring open or short (Equipped Models).


Hope it helps.
 

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Welcome From Canada

:welcome:to the forum. FYI your unique user name post went straight to the moderated post, same with the second 1, If I hadn't looked who knows if and when this would be displayed.
 

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I tried the manual erase for Code 25, but it didn't work for me. Is there a change or update to do it differently?
I put Code 25 on the screen each time I tried it, is that wrong? Or is there something different to do before letting it idle?

Or must it be ridden exactly 5 minutes? No more, no less?

Any alternatives?

Thanks, prairiedog2
 

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New Member Hijacking Thread

I tried the manual erase for Code 25, but it didn't work for me. Is there a change or update to do it differently?
I put Code 25 on the screen each time I tried it, is that wrong? Or is there something different to do before letting it idle?

Or must it be ridden exactly 5 minutes? No more, no less?

Any alternatives?

Thanks, prairiedog2
Normally I would move this post or copy it as you are a new member and should have started a new thread, since this is pertinent I am leaving as is but;

:welcome:https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/5-member-introductions/205361-valuable-links-wizard-member-intro.htmlplease read, please do a second post in your own thread ( if you haven't done so). Thanks
I urge you to do a start a new second thread under your own name.
 
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