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:welcome:


Don't fear the valves! :grin2: Here's a video that will give you a good idea. Get the service manual (either hard copy or download) and you should be good to go.




Here's another video to give you a better idea what the valves and shims look like:

 

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Vacuum Synchronization

I have made the valve adjustment and I am waiting for the carbtune to arrive in mail. I have the california model 2015 versys and vacuum hoses are connected as shown in the picture. From what I understand, I need to do the following, can you please confirm or correct these steps:

1. I need to connect the 2 vacuum hoses (in the picture they are connected to each other at the T) to the 2 channels of the carbtune.
2. Plug the air switching valve
3. Plug air cleaner house fitting
4. Install air cleaner housing
5. Install fuel tank using an extension and do the sync at the 1300 rpm idle speed
6. Adjust the 2 bypass screws till vaccum is in sync
7. Highly accurate tachometer is not needed?

Onewizard had suggested extending and pulling the hoses out and securing them so that future vac sync can be done with everything in place. Does this still apply to California model

Please note this photo does not exist in the service manual 2-16 and was copied here by me Onewizard
 

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I recently completed a 3900 mile two week trip to play on some fun roads and visit some folks I know in east TN, and Arkansas.

I had preplanned a rear tire refresh at the AR location. Pulled off a RSIII at 6400 miles at the wear bars, a new record for me. Note: this tire was a 170/60, not a 160/60. Replaced with a BS T31. I bought this and three more for about $100 ea from Rocky Mountain ATV. The rebate has since ended so the tire is now $127 plus tax, less reward credits. Still a deal on a rear tire. I'll update on the wear. It does seem to handle and ride just fine. I'm currently at about 1/4" on the chicken strips. Yeehaw.

Today was check valve day. Exhaust were at .28, .28, .31, and .28. Intakes were at .23, .21, .21, and .21. Awesome. They have basically not moved in 47k miles since the last time I had to adjust at 12k miles, except a slight movement on the left two eshaust valves. And the engine spends a lot of time in mid to upper rpm range. It is too much fun cornering and playing from 6-9 grand.

I also figured out that I'll be replacing plugs more often than 47k miles. The tips were a bit eaten away.

I should get it buttoned up and done tomorrow, including an oil and filter change, and maybe a chain and sprockets, ready for my next trip coming up in about 2-3 weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Valve Shim Feb. 2017 @ 11592 KM

realized I never posted my specs , PDF version is better.


Mileage___11,592 KM __February 6, 2017
Shims are 7.48mm
Left Right
Exhaust Valves:
Exhaust spec clearance: .22mm-.31mm (.009”-.012”)
Cylinder #1 Exhaust Cylinder #2 Exhaust
1A 1B 2A 2B
Before After Before After Before After Before After
Clearance 0.20 0.32 0.254 0.32 0.254 0.32 0.229 0.31
Shim___________ ______ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____



LEFT RIGHT
Intake Valves:Intake Spec clearance: .15mm- .21mm (.006”- .008”)
Cylinder #1 Intake Cylinder #2 Intake
1A 1B 2A 2B
Before After Before After Before After Before After
Clearance 0.17 0.22 0.15 0.22 0.178 0.21 0.152 0.21
Shim___________ ______ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____
Notes
__Cylinders labeled left to right facing forward, throttle side is cylinder #2 ______________________________________________________________________Cylinder #1A exhaust was tight , however no damage, allow about
0.01mm for oil if buckets and cam is dry . All measurements were taken
with oil on cam and buckets, before and after, including the shim. I
measured the shims as to location. Some intake used 2.935 mm shims,
also 2.98 mm and 3.05mm , don't trust the marking of the shim. I ended
up using carbide sand paper, 200, 300
and 400. For small differences I used the 300, about 5 minutes a shim. All
shims taken out went back into the same location using the same bucket, this
way I new how much to remove as the buckets varied in thickness just like
the shims. An exception would be if swapping shims would reduce sanding, however I found most cases the problem was tight not loose. _____________________________
 

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They usually need to be slightly thinner than original. I thinned and switched some shims around, to set all my inlet valves' clearances at middle of spec range. I used wet fine emery cloth on a flat wood surface to thin some of my original shims.

If you're not up to the task, you can get 7.48 mm diameter shims (same as Versys 650/1000) in 0.025 mm increments (instead of only 0.050 mm increments) in 2.50 mm to 3.50 mm thicknesses from your Kawasaki dealer.

Kawasaki 2006-2011 KX-250F shims 0.025 mm increments $11.50
(Versys 1000 shims 0.050 mm increments $15.12)

Shim ------ Kawasaki #

2.800mm - 92180-0179
2.825mm - 92180-0180
2.850mm - 92180-0181
2.875mm - 92180-0182
2.900mm - 92180-0183
2.925mm - 92180-0184
2.950mm - 92180-0185
2.975mm - 92180-0186
3.000mm - 92180-0187
3.025mm - 92180-0188
3.050mm - 92180-0189
3.075mm - 92180-0190
3.100mm - 92180-0191
 

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I was almost to 17,000 miles and knew it was past time to check the valves. I had already done an air filter and spark plug change so dove right in to the valve adjustment. Everything was good, two intake valves were at .152 mm, on the edge, so picked up two spacers at 2.95 mm and installed them. Everything looked good so it was time to torque em down.... One of the bolts snapped and not in an easy to reach way, about where the threads start so it can't be easily gotten to. So now I'm trying to figure out how to get that thing out... those bolts are hard and that aluminum is soft so I'm gunna need some better bits and maybe some advice. Any ideas guys?
 

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Everything looked good so it was time to torque em down.... One of the bolts snapped
Sorry to hear but this begs the question...what torque value were you using?

The book calls for 106 inch pounds for the cam cap bolts. Did you try and torque them to 106 foot pounds?
 

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Well it took 2 days, some prayer, a lousy night's sleep, a lot of research, conversations with machine shops that either didn't want to do it or asked me to bring in the head.... In the end I used a center punch, drilled the bolt with a reverse thread bit and tried a couple size easy outs, but it came down to using a smaller bit and then a 1/8 inch reverse cutting cobalt drill bit. Whew!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Copy To How To / Valve Shim Thread

Well it took 2 days, some prayer, a lousy night's sleep, a lot of research, conversations with machine shops that either didn't want to do it or asked me to bring in the head.... In the end I used a center punch, drilled the bolt with a reverse thread bit and tried a couple size easy outs, but it came down to using a smaller bit and then a 1/8 inch reverse cutting cobalt drill bit. Whew!
Man you are one lucky guy, I ask if you followed any threads on this forum, I ask because what happened has happened to others including damaging one of the cam caps, they are precision machined, fitted in the exhaust and intake locations, not to be swapped, one member cracked one, not easily replaced. That has been stressed in both my valve shim threads and Fasteddie threads. Your post may help others.
 

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I'm planning to do the valve adjustment soon, but I don't want to buy a Carbtune tool for one time, is there anybody in Montreal area available for a TBS help?
 
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