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http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forum...shim-check-valve-timing-valve-adjustment.html
Since this Photo Bucket posting thing I think I will attempt to post my method which is very similar to Fasteddie. One caution is make sure you are careful with the timing chain. My method requires absolutely no movement of the crankshaft after you get the measurements.
This is also something I recommend and related to the valve shim, throttle body sync buy about 3.5 feet of vacuum line, if a MK-1 or MK-2 get 1/8 or 3.2mm reinforced fuel vapor /vacuum line
for the 2015 FYI the capped vacuum line fittings have changed to 6 mm , I was able to buy 7/32 line at Parts Source and extended and capped off the lines at my Denali Compressor, so I can do a throttle body sync next time in 10 minutes,
( time to warm up and get all the test equipment hooked up). For clarity, it is almost impossible to get at the capped vacuum ports on the MK-3, even more impossible to get the caps back on. So I installed those lines permanently while doing the valve shim.
You will notice my last photo showing the other end of the vacuum lines and the throttle bodies removed with clean rags in the intake. Yellow is cylinder # 2 and red is #1
[
This is related to vacuum sync and the final process after the valve shim:
So after reading the posts about TPS and vacuum hose mod I decided to do this on my 2015 650 ABS, I only need to cut one wire tie , remove my stainless plugs from the vacuum lines and insert one of my vacuum couplings to each line, less than two minutes,
then hook up my Carbtune Pro vacuum gauges. I used a 1/4 X 1 1/2 hex head stainless bolt and cut the threads off to plug each line, filed a bit of a taper at the end of the bolts for easier insertion. Permanently install this were the capped off ports were, save the caps, tape them on the lines if you wish. I used coloured tape to identify #1 and #2 cylinder, red is 1 and yellow #2 ( taken from a electrician stand point of 3 phase, red, black / yellow, blue) I discovered that the valve shim is directly related to vacuum sync. Being able to check vacuum sync 10,000 miles later without taking things apart is a huge advantage, if the sync is off, good chance you have a tight valve, if it is bang on what you measured when completing the valve shim , chances are good that valves are OK at this 10,000 mile check.
The manual says section 2 pg 17 that spec at 1350 RPM is 284mmHg plus or minus 10mm, my gauges read in cmHg, so the range of spec is 27.4cmHg to 29.4cmHg, My gauge showed a balanced 28 cmHg, could be I was off on RPM a bit. To convert to inches , 1 inch = 2.5 cm or 1cm = 0.4 inches.I used the 28 cmHg as a baseline, and it was the same reading on my 07.
Since this Photo Bucket posting thing I think I will attempt to post my method which is very similar to Fasteddie. One caution is make sure you are careful with the timing chain. My method requires absolutely no movement of the crankshaft after you get the measurements.
This is also something I recommend and related to the valve shim, throttle body sync buy about 3.5 feet of vacuum line, if a MK-1 or MK-2 get 1/8 or 3.2mm reinforced fuel vapor /vacuum line
for the 2015 FYI the capped vacuum line fittings have changed to 6 mm , I was able to buy 7/32 line at Parts Source and extended and capped off the lines at my Denali Compressor, so I can do a throttle body sync next time in 10 minutes,
( time to warm up and get all the test equipment hooked up). For clarity, it is almost impossible to get at the capped vacuum ports on the MK-3, even more impossible to get the caps back on. So I installed those lines permanently while doing the valve shim.
You will notice my last photo showing the other end of the vacuum lines and the throttle bodies removed with clean rags in the intake. Yellow is cylinder # 2 and red is #1
[
This is related to vacuum sync and the final process after the valve shim:
So after reading the posts about TPS and vacuum hose mod I decided to do this on my 2015 650 ABS, I only need to cut one wire tie , remove my stainless plugs from the vacuum lines and insert one of my vacuum couplings to each line, less than two minutes,
then hook up my Carbtune Pro vacuum gauges. I used a 1/4 X 1 1/2 hex head stainless bolt and cut the threads off to plug each line, filed a bit of a taper at the end of the bolts for easier insertion. Permanently install this were the capped off ports were, save the caps, tape them on the lines if you wish. I used coloured tape to identify #1 and #2 cylinder, red is 1 and yellow #2 ( taken from a electrician stand point of 3 phase, red, black / yellow, blue) I discovered that the valve shim is directly related to vacuum sync. Being able to check vacuum sync 10,000 miles later without taking things apart is a huge advantage, if the sync is off, good chance you have a tight valve, if it is bang on what you measured when completing the valve shim , chances are good that valves are OK at this 10,000 mile check.
The manual says section 2 pg 17 that spec at 1350 RPM is 284mmHg plus or minus 10mm, my gauges read in cmHg, so the range of spec is 27.4cmHg to 29.4cmHg, My gauge showed a balanced 28 cmHg, could be I was off on RPM a bit. To convert to inches , 1 inch = 2.5 cm or 1cm = 0.4 inches.I used the 28 cmHg as a baseline, and it was the same reading on my 07.