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Premium Member
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I am not sure why you didn't look at the link in post 9-- Everything explained including the error in the manual, what page numbers and installing the cam chain tensioner.


Premium Member
10,337 Posts

I'm hoping someone here can help me, I am attempting to do the valve check on my 2015 Versys 650. I'm following Fast Eddie's "Valve Adjustment Procedure" pdf file on how to do this, but am stuck at removing the airbox. At page 9 it says View attachment 185199

But I can't really figure out which bolt or screw to remove. I have the TechSpark manual, but despite claiming it is good for Gen3 the picture it shows is obviously for an earlier Versys. Here is what I see on the LH side of the airbox:

View attachment 185200

Two blue painted 8mm bolts, and way back there to the right of the upper blue painted bolt appears to be an allen headed bolt of some size. Totally inaccessible with any tools that I have unless I can remove other stuff to get to it. I'm hoping that's not the correct bolt to remove, but maybe it is? Which one are the throttle body clamp bolts, and is there any harm to removing them?


Look up and just right of the large blue hex bolt, the top edge is illuminated -that is it. Also look at my link, you will need some 100 LB wire ties.
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Air box side view-one very long bolt does both clamps with a spacer between--loosen about 6 turns maximum
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145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Just a quick update:

I finally got the bike running again today. There definitely was a learning curve to this. I made several attempts to get the valve clearance within spec using the "sand the shims" method from the Forum, but finally gave up and went out to Ride Motorsports and just bought some new ones. Turns out that they are very reasonably priced there, $5 each. I think a lot of my problem was the cheap Chinese micrometer I had really isn't much good - I could measure the same shim 3 or 4 times and get measurements that varied by 0.002 of an inch. Since you are adjusting the clearance to be within a 0.003 inch range, that's no good. The parts counter at Ride borrowed a micrometer from their shop and measured them for me, and was able to measure to about 0.0002 of an inch.

The two intake valves on #2 were out of spec (tight) before I started adjusting. All others except one exhaust were right at min clearance. None were towards the loose end of the range. This appears to be normal, at least for the Versys.

They are all within range now, although not really as loose as I wanted (or suggested here) as Ride only stocks shims in 0.005mm (about 0.002in) increments, and I didn't really want to risk having to tear it apart of 3rd time because of being out of spec on the loose end. I figure each time that you do this, you are running the risk of a catastrophe, such as breaking a bolt off in the head, or dropping something into an inaccessible part of the engine.

I didn't try to balance the fuel injectors, as I don't have the equipment for that. I did change out the plugs and air filter, as well as change the oil at the end - even though I just did that a few months ago I wanted to make sure to flush out any bits of crap that had fallen into the oil during the process.

Before connecting the fuel tank, I connected the battery and turned the motor over for about 20 seconds, listening for any sounds of metal distress. After connecting the tank, it started after about 10 seconds of cranking. After a few seconds the idle steadied out. I've run it for about 10 minutes, rev'ing to about 7k RPM in the garage, and somewhat to my amazement, the engine did not blow up. So far so good.

I never did resolve the "1|T" vs "1 over T" issue - as noted in my pictures, the only way that the cam lobes for #1 ended up at the 10 and 2 o'clock positions shown in the manual was if I used "1|T", and "2|T" for #2. I did use "2 over T" for removing the cams (keeping them both cabled tied to the cogs as mentioned - a GREAT idea). Being a 4 stroke engine, you do have to rotate the crank twice sometimes to get to the correct position. I don't know if the guy who assembled my engine had just read the manual or what!

I've worked on engines my whole life, but this is definitely NOT a job for the meek, the impatient (the employed?), or the tool impoverished. Way too many things you have to remove to get the job done, and very tight spaces to work in. It would also be impossible without all the wisdom and prior experience found on this forum!

Thanks again!


Premium Member
10,337 Posts
My full thread;Valve Shim /Vacuum Sync 2015 650ABS /Onewizard

This is simply to clarify 2 back slash T and And 2 over T in the manual

FYI it is assumed you have followed the manual before this starting point,under 2-26 valve clearance check, removing the stick coils and spark plugs, and this should also be the last thing you do after verifying all your work to correct valve shim clearance is correct , before installing the spark plugs due to the fact you don't want any compression hindering the precise movement necessary to measure these clearances.

Take your time , get it straight in your head, mark your manual. Page 2-26 valve clearance check. The text and accompanying photo are incorrect for 2/T i.e. 2 over T. Take some time and X out the 2/T on page 2-26, this could cause all kinds of grief if your cam chain came off as 2/T ( 2 over T not 2 backslash T )is your position for cam shaft timing marks as described in section 5-22 seeing is believing .

The 1/T text and photo are correct on this 2-26 page. Turn next to page 5-22, but book mark this 2-26 page, pg 5-22 says ; turn the crankshaft clockwise until the 2/T mark line A on the timing rotor is aligned with the notch B in the edge of the timing inspection hole C in the clutch cover , top photo . It continues with * If the clutch cover is removed, -------------until the mark 1/T mark line , notice the second photo A points to 1IT which is correct.

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1/T is position for #1 cylinder Using the Go no Go feeler gauges, you should be checking the clearances and recording them using my PDF document
2/T is position for #2 cylinder Using the Go no Go feeler gauges, you should be checking the clearances and recording them using my PDF document

This is of utmost importance,
see bottom photo page 5-22, with the 2/T ( 2 over T ) mark in the inspection hole, note the photo ,the one with the breaker bar

this is your final position before you pull the cam cap bolts and start the valve shim corrections if they are needed ( so far with 2 Versys, My 07 at 24,000 KM and my 2015 at 11,000 KM, both had tight out of spec exhaust valves) .

This is the intake camshaft sprocket with wire tie in correct position to prevent skipping a tooth and averting a cam chain timing problem. At the camshaft timing position 2 I T , 2 over T you should see a white paint mark on the left intake cam sprocket IN and a white mark on the exhaust cam sprocket EX, this should line up with the top of your cylinder head casting.

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I used my breaker bar and a bungee cord to hold this position, tied to my foot peg. Below is the exhaust camshaft sprocket at the 2/T timing position, 2 over T , not backslash
Note on the right side of this exhaust sprocket, very edge of casting you can see what appears to be a blue paint mark ( actually white) that is the timing mark

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Now that this is clear as to position, you should have marked down each dimension for intake valves 1 to 4 and exhaust valves 1 to 4. My advice is to do the maximum clearance, even if the intake are in spec. Example, intake spec. at 0.15 to 0.21mm, all my valves when done were 0.21mm, all my exhaust were 0.31mm. when complete my throttle body sync vacuum was exactly balanced, just like factory!!

At this time you can then remove the cam chain tensioner if you are doing adjustments to the shims,the breaker bar is holding the camshaft in the 2/T position, 2 Over T.

I found a obstruction wrench makes it easy to remove this bolt ( 12mm).

FYI FastEddie mentioned difficulty in installing the cam chain tensioner, mark the side of the tensioner facing out before removing as it is possible to install backwards, also note that the ratchet mechanism needs to be released before installing, check the manual. I will discuss this further but the breaker bar is key to a easy valve shim Also install two wire ties one on the intake cam sprocket and one on the exhaust cam sprocket, this prevents making a mistake on the cam chain.Several good photos in Valve Shim Check/Valve Timing/ Valve Adjustment

this is the position for checking #1 cylinder valve clearance
2/T ( 2 backslash T ) is timing position for measuring #2 cylinder valves

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page 2-26 periodic maint. B shows the incorrect symbol of 2/T I created some confusion as once you finish measuring, rotate crankshaft until you have 2 over T 2/T
this photo I have included shows the correct marking as to 2/T, 2 over T not backslash, which is clarified in the manual on 5-22 of the manual and again this should be the final position. This photo / position, is also key to cam chain timing marks which I will describe later on reinstall directions.
, this also shows the breaker bar

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