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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished my first valve job this week. Runs better (obviously) after 64K miles. I had to drop the engine because somehow the two M6 bolts next to the frame got buggered and would not come off and I had to grind off the heads with a Dremel. Was not a difficult task and I highly recommend that if you reach the point that you need this performed. You do it. Total cost $250.00. Gasket, springs, new head bolts, two replacement M6 bolts, spring compression tool.

Cheers
:cheers:
 

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Good for you angst. I've never held onto a bike long enough that it needed a valve job. I plan on needing to with my Versys :). I get a little nervous thinking about doing the job myself. But knowing others have been successful gives me hope.

BTW, if I'm understanding your explanation about the M6 bolts, I had a real bitch of a time getting one of them BACK on during a crashbar install.
 

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Interesting. Would you expect to have the clearances gradually tighten again, now that you've done the springs?
 

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Discussion Starter #8

...first time I have heard of valve spring replacement

WHY !
Yes, after a while of riding and check valve clearances that consistently get looser and then stops. That is a clear sign that the valve springs are too weak to close the valves properly before ignition. Also you begin to hear excessive noise in the head from all of the clatter of the valves closing to late against the cam and possibly being shut by a rising piston.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tighteing?

Interesting. Would you expect to have the clearances gradually tighten again, now that you've done the springs?
Nope, the springs are strong enough to measure clearances, but not strong enough to close the valve fast enough for ignition. Since the CAM is where the material is lost in the fit of the valve adjustment equation I would not expect that the fit would become tighter after replacing the valve springs. If anything you should start to see a more uniform wear of the CAM's again that can be verified when checking the valve clearances.
 

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I'm not sure that I've ever heard of someone replacing the valve springs. Completely new news to me, though I can understand the reasoning to it. I don't know that I'll ever get to a point where I actually need to do that, but I'll definitely give it a go at 100k or something if I ever reach that :)

I keep planning on taking longer rides, then never get around to them. At this rate, it'll take me another 4-5 years to hit that!
 

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Nope, the springs are strong enough to measure clearances, but not strong enough to close the valve fast enough for ignition. Since the CAM is where the material is lost in the fit of the valve adjustment equation I would not expect that the fit would become tighter after replacing the valve springs. If anything you should start to see a more uniform wear of the CAM's again that can be verified when checking the valve clearances.
Respectfully, I have to disagree with you. IF your cams are wearing (the hardened coating is VERY thin), you'll VERY QUICKLY have metal particles throughout your engine, and as the cams wear you'll have NO performance, because, eventually, they wouldn't open the valves at all, because the lobe would wear to a "circle" - NO bumps....

Replacing the springs IF your cams are wearing will NOT fix anything.
 

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valve adj

...first time I have heard of valve spring replacement

WHY !
Angst had a valve job done, not just a valve lash clearance adjustment.

Engine head had to be removed from cylinder block, and valve springs had to be removed to remove valves to resurface the valve seats in the head.

By the way, angst, was it a 3-angle valve job, and were the valve seals also replaced? How were your valve guides?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Angst had a valve job done, not just a valve lash clearance adjustment.

Engine head had to be removed from cylinder block, and valve springs had to be removed to remove valves to resurface the valve seats in the head.

By the way, angst, was it a 3-angle valve job, and were the valve seals also replaced? How were your valve guides?
Okay, I guess I did not have a full valve job. I replaced the springs. That was it. I filled the valve area with some Seafoam and let it sit for a couple days in the cool night and it never leaked. So I did not think that the valves were leaking pressure. Springs were on the other hand worn out. I can practically squish them by hand. As far as how the the guides were. They were still tight. At the moment it runs like a champ and I have no complaints and not out of a lot of $$$.
 

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Okay, I guess I did not have a full valve job. I replaced the springs. That was it. I filled the valve area with some Seafoam and let it sit for a couple days in the cool night and it never leaked. So I did not think that the valves were leaking pressure. Springs were on the other hand worn out. I can practically squish them by hand. As far as how the the guides were. They were still tight. At the moment it runs like a champ and I have no complaints and not out of a lot of $$$.
A lot of folks don't realize how hot valve springs get, especially in high rpm engines. Some racing engines have oil squirts aimed at each spring to help keep them cool. Others use pneumatic closers.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wow!!!

A lot of folks don't realize how hot valve springs get, especially in high rpm engines. Some racing engines have oil squirts aimed at each spring to help keep them cool. Others use pneumatic closers.
It's nice to have someone side with once in a while. Thanks! I thought it was mostly the mileage that wore the springs out. Additionally, looking at the new springs versus the old one side by side. The old ones were a bit shorter, maybe one or two MM's. I am sure that when compressed that missing amount of tension on the valve pushing back probably did not close the valve fast enough causing a lack of compression in the cylinder at ignition.

:cheers:
 
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