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I had my bike on the stand for new chain and sprockets, and thought I'd check the valves while I was at it. 2011 with 15k miles. Here are my measurements:

Cylinder 1: Exhaust .241 Exhaust .254
Cylinder 1: Intake .178 Intake .165

Cylinder 2: Exhaust .279 Exhaust .279
Cylinder 2: Intake .165 Intake .165

All within specs, but should I go ahead and change everything to get closer to .31 exhaust and .21 intake? Or leave it as is for another 10-15k miles?
 

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I had my bike on the stand for new chain and sprockets, and thought I'd check the valves while I was at it. 2011 with 15k miles. Here are my measurements:

Cylinder 1: Exhaust .241 Exhaust .254
Cylinder 1: Intake .178 Intake .165

Cylinder 2: Exhaust .279 Exhaust .279
Cylinder 2: Intake .165 Intake .165

All within specs, but should I go ahead and change everything to get closer to .31 exhaust and .21 intake? Or leave it as is for another 10-15k miles?
I would adjust to the outside spec as long as you are in there and have the opportunity. That way will also give a bit of leeway on extending the next check if it's not convenient.

But then there is the "why not put off until tomorrow what you don't have to do today" way of looking at things.

Have fun.
 

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I first checked mine at 14k miles. Had one valve right at the tight end of spec. Buttoned her back up and rode another 4k then made the adjustments.

During the additional 4k miles the valve clearances did not change.

If you try to adjust all the way out to the max loose spec you will find it difficult do the available shim sizes. Kawasaki shim sizes are not as finely graduated as other bikes that share the same diameter shims.

The following is from another members post:

Suzuki 2004-2005 RM-Z250 shims $8.47
Kawasaki 2006-2011 KX-250F shims $8.96
(Versys shims 0.050 mm increments $11.78)

Shim ------- Suzuki # ----- Kawasaki #

2.800mm - K9218-00179 - 92180-0179
2.825mm - K9218-00180 - 92180-0180
2.850mm - K9218-00181 - 92180-0181
2.875mm - K9218-00182 - 92180-0182
2.900mm - K9218-00183 - 92180-0183
2.925mm - K9218-00184 - 92180-0184
2.950mm - K9218-00185 - 92180-0185
2.975mm - K9218-00186 - 92180-0186
3.000mm - K9218-00187 - 92180-0187
3.025mm - K9218-00188 - 92180-0188
3.050mm - K9218-00189 - 92180-0189
3.075mm - K9218-00190 - 92180-0190
3.100mm - K9218-00191 - 92180-0191

As you can see the shims for the RM 250 and KX 250 are more finely graduated than the shims for our Versys.
 

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i don't think you need to "max out" to the absolute loose end of the spec, but at the same time, if you have some "tight normal" clearances, i would change out shims to give you more room for tightening of the clearances over time. better a little loose than a little tight (like chains). that's what i did. high mileage riders seem to be reporting that the tightening of clearances abates to nothing after the first one or two valve checks.
 

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...All within specs, but should I go ahead and change everything to get closer to .31 exhaust and .21 intake? Or leave it as is for another 10-15k miles?
I would suggest that you do it, as you've already done a LOT of the work.

I would adjust to the outside spec as long as you are in there and have the opportunity. That way will also give a bit of leeway on extending the next check if it's not convenient....
i don't think you need to "max out" to the absolute loose end of the spec, but at the same time, if you have some "tight normal" clearances, i would change out shims to give you more room for tightening of the clearances over time. better a little loose than a little tight (like chains). that's what i did. high mileage riders seem to be reporting that the tightening of clearances abates to nothing after the first one or two valve checks.
OR you can just 'work' the tight shims on some sandpaper/ garnet paper to the correct amount (doesn't take too long), then KNOW that they are correct!
 
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