I am not sure why this continues to be in question when the manual clearly identifies the country code abbreviations on page 6, where it lists CA as Canada.
Gustavo
Valve Check/Adjustment
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Gustavo
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8,000 Posts
Besides, what you really need to know is what your valve clearances are at now. What did they individually settle at after initial assembly and break-in, and what clearances is my engine operating on? After checking, and adjusting as equally and nearest middle of range if possible when neccessary, you can then keep checking valve clearances at every 26K miles in USA, Canada, California, or wherever you happen to be. It wouldn't hurt to give it a simple check after 15K miles though... I would do it again even before that, not because I'm in CA, but just for fun and out of sheer curiosity.
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173 Posts
Here's how I kept out of trouble. The job was easy and straitforward.
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1,063 Posts
This one needs to be stickied. Good info.
For the non-mechanic - skipping valve checks is inviting premature valve failure which is a helluva lot more costly than paying for a check and adjust. If the heads are anything like our KTM race bikes it's probaby close to a grand to rebuild them.
If these are like most shim-bucket types they get tighter as the the stem and cam wears so it is increasingly necessary to check/adjust them as the miles pile up. Mostly now valves stay in spec for a long time but there's a service interval for a reason.
On our KTM race bikes they say every 20 hours. Let's see, at 30mph that's 600 miles. At 70mph that's 1400 miles. But they are known to go over 200 hours before starting to wear and once they do we don't mess with it, everything gets replaced. Titanium valves in the racing four strokes. The 15K interval is relatively painless for the V.
Also, you should be able to drop your bike off for a day to a tech and they'll get it done. A competant one will have a selection of shims on hand - just ask them and get a firm cost. For someone that does it for a living it's a cakewalk.
For the non-mechanic - skipping valve checks is inviting premature valve failure which is a helluva lot more costly than paying for a check and adjust. If the heads are anything like our KTM race bikes it's probaby close to a grand to rebuild them.
If these are like most shim-bucket types they get tighter as the the stem and cam wears so it is increasingly necessary to check/adjust them as the miles pile up. Mostly now valves stay in spec for a long time but there's a service interval for a reason.
On our KTM race bikes they say every 20 hours. Let's see, at 30mph that's 600 miles. At 70mph that's 1400 miles. But they are known to go over 200 hours before starting to wear and once they do we don't mess with it, everything gets replaced. Titanium valves in the racing four strokes. The 15K interval is relatively painless for the V.
Also, you should be able to drop your bike off for a day to a tech and they'll get it done. A competant one will have a selection of shims on hand - just ask them and get a firm cost. For someone that does it for a living it's a cakewalk.
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20,212 Posts
Adjusting the valves - 1st time
I just finished adjusting the valves on my '08 Versys, for the first time, at 20,500 miles, and here are a FEW observations:
1. Using the .pdf Service Manual is somewhat challenging, as it's necessary to move back-and-forth quite often, and the SAME heading exists under differing guises (ie - under "Periodic" as well as a MAIN heading of its own, and it's NECESSARY to use BOTH);
A. Some instructions advise operations NOT required when doing valves, as they're intended for when totally dismantling the engine;
B. Some instructions are a little "obscure" in my opinion, so READ them well FIRST;
2. Once I had measured my clearances, then removed the buckets and shims, and measured THEM with my digital caliper in metric (WRITE ALL THIS DOWN!!!), I went to the page with the "clearance VS shim" graph, and discovered that shims come in 'steps' of .05 mm (ie - 2.90 then 2.95 then 3.00mm), so I went back to my notes and worked out which shims would work BEST - as 6 of the 8 valves were either ON the TIGHT end, or TIGHT by .03 to .04 on the exhausts, and OK, or right on the TIGHT end for the intakes), I decided to adjust to the HIGH end as I've always done on my KLR - and ended up ordering 5 at 2.95mm, and 1 at 3.00 from my Kawi dealer.
4. Got the call that they were in, so went there with my notes AND my calipers, and began measuring them.
Imagine my surprise (and chagrin) when I noted that NONE of them were the size they were marked as. :huh: The dealership's mechanic suggested that (maybe) my calipers were "OFF", so got his and we compared them - IDENTICAL! He then suggested that, perhaps, his stock of (Yamaha?) shims were the same width (they ARE...), so I got to work measuring his, and found that I could get replacement shims that were ALMOST exactly what my figures indicated I was looking for, rather than 'out' by .02 or .03 mm! :goodidea: :exactly: (I needed a 2.93 and found it, etc.)
BTW, the Kawi ones were USUALLY off by about .03 mm (THINNER), while one of the mechanic's stock of shims, marked as 3.00, was ACTUALLY 2.88 :badidea: . :goodluck:
So, IF you don't measure shims when you pick them up, your clearances will (APPARENTLY) end up as MORE than you expect or plan for. :goodluck:
Invader, does this resemble your experiences? :feedback:
I just finished adjusting the valves on my '08 Versys, for the first time, at 20,500 miles, and here are a FEW observations:
1. Using the .pdf Service Manual is somewhat challenging, as it's necessary to move back-and-forth quite often, and the SAME heading exists under differing guises (ie - under "Periodic" as well as a MAIN heading of its own, and it's NECESSARY to use BOTH);
A. Some instructions advise operations NOT required when doing valves, as they're intended for when totally dismantling the engine;
B. Some instructions are a little "obscure" in my opinion, so READ them well FIRST;
2. Once I had measured my clearances, then removed the buckets and shims, and measured THEM with my digital caliper in metric (WRITE ALL THIS DOWN!!!), I went to the page with the "clearance VS shim" graph, and discovered that shims come in 'steps' of .05 mm (ie - 2.90 then 2.95 then 3.00mm), so I went back to my notes and worked out which shims would work BEST - as 6 of the 8 valves were either ON the TIGHT end, or TIGHT by .03 to .04 on the exhausts, and OK, or right on the TIGHT end for the intakes), I decided to adjust to the HIGH end as I've always done on my KLR - and ended up ordering 5 at 2.95mm, and 1 at 3.00 from my Kawi dealer.
4. Got the call that they were in, so went there with my notes AND my calipers, and began measuring them.
Imagine my surprise (and chagrin) when I noted that NONE of them were the size they were marked as. :huh: The dealership's mechanic suggested that (maybe) my calipers were "OFF", so got his and we compared them - IDENTICAL! He then suggested that, perhaps, his stock of (Yamaha?) shims were the same width (they ARE...), so I got to work measuring his, and found that I could get replacement shims that were ALMOST exactly what my figures indicated I was looking for, rather than 'out' by .02 or .03 mm! :goodidea: :exactly: (I needed a 2.93 and found it, etc.)
BTW, the Kawi ones were USUALLY off by about .03 mm (THINNER), while one of the mechanic's stock of shims, marked as 3.00, was ACTUALLY 2.88 :badidea: . :goodluck:
So, IF you don't measure shims when you pick them up, your clearances will (APPARENTLY) end up as MORE than you expect or plan for. :goodluck:
Invader, does this resemble your experiences? :feedback:
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8,000 Posts
I measured my original shims with metric micrometer. They were unmarked and of odd thicknesses, unlike Yamaha shims. (1/1000 mm (0.00X) values are estimated (in between the 0.0X lines):
Inlet: 3.052, 3.025 / 3.055, 3.045 mm
Exhaust: 3.025, 3.047 / 3.02, 3.023 mm
I set all my inlets at 0.18 mm and exhausts at 0.26 mm by switching and thinning some shims around. I didn't have to buy shims.
Specs: Exhaust 0.22 - 0.31 mm
Inlet 0.15 - 0.21 mm
Inlet: 3.052, 3.025 / 3.055, 3.045 mm
Exhaust: 3.025, 3.047 / 3.02, 3.023 mm
I set all my inlets at 0.18 mm and exhausts at 0.26 mm by switching and thinning some shims around. I didn't have to buy shims.
Specs: Exhaust 0.22 - 0.31 mm
Inlet 0.15 - 0.21 mm
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1,229 Posts
Not only were some of my new shims a bit off from their stated size, quite a few of the brand new K&D feeler gauges were off as well.
I ended up mic’ing 2 sets of feeler gauges (one metric & one inch) & writing their true dimensions on them before I was done. What a PITA!
.
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1,229 Posts
I have my doubts as to whether or not they pull the valve cover off...
.
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8,636 Posts
My bike is at 19,000km and believe valves supposed to be done at 24,000km.
My bike will be going to the shop for that job, Please forgive my ignorance in gaps etc but should the specific measurments I should be asking the mechanic to acheive so he don't waste time trying to find the spec's?
My bike will be going to the shop for that job, Please forgive my ignorance in gaps etc but should the specific measurments I should be asking the mechanic to acheive so he don't waste time trying to find the spec's?
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8,000 Posts
It wouldn't hurt telling him, but a good mechanic would check anyway if he doesn't already know. They do have easy access to such info at Kawasaki dealer, and can quickly confirm your given specs. If the clearances are found to be on the tight side, they could aim for closer to maximum clearance... You could see if they know that Kawasaki replacement shims should be measured.
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8,000 Posts
Suzuki makes 7.48mm shims (as on Versys) in 0.025mm increments (instead of only 0.050mm increments) for 2004-2005 RM-Z250, from 2.50mm (K9218-00167) to 3.50mm (K9218-00207).
Kawasaki 7.48mm shims for 2006-2011 KX-250F also come in 0.025mm increments, from 2.50mm (92180-0167) to 3.50mm (92180-0207).
Kawasaki Versys shims $11.78
Suzuki 2004-2005 RM-Z250 shims $8.47
Kawasaki 2006-2011 KX-250F shims $8.96
Kawasaki 7.48mm shims for 2006-2011 KX-250F also come in 0.025mm increments, from 2.50mm (92180-0167) to 3.50mm (92180-0207).
Kawasaki Versys shims $11.78
Suzuki 2004-2005 RM-Z250 shims $8.47
Kawasaki 2006-2011 KX-250F shims $8.96
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8,000 Posts
Shim ------- Suzuki # ----- Kawasaki #
Retail-USA: $8.47 --------- $8.96
2.800mm - K9218-00179 - 92180-0179
2.825mm - K9218-00180 - 92180-0180
2.850mm - K9218-00181 - 92180-0181
2.875mm - K9218-00182 - 92180-0182
2.900mm - K9218-00183 - 92180-0183
2.925mm - K9218-00184 - 92180-0184
2.950mm - K9218-00185 - 92180-0185
2.975mm - K9218-00186 - 92180-0186
3.000mm - K9218-00187 - 92180-0187
3.025mm - K9218-00188 - 92180-0188
3.050mm - K9218-00189 - 92180-0189
3.075mm - K9218-00190 - 92180-0190
3.100mm - K9218-00191 - 92180-0191
Retail-USA: $8.47 --------- $8.96
2.800mm - K9218-00179 - 92180-0179
2.825mm - K9218-00180 - 92180-0180
2.850mm - K9218-00181 - 92180-0181
2.875mm - K9218-00182 - 92180-0182
2.900mm - K9218-00183 - 92180-0183
2.925mm - K9218-00184 - 92180-0184
2.950mm - K9218-00185 - 92180-0185
2.975mm - K9218-00186 - 92180-0186
3.000mm - K9218-00187 - 92180-0187
3.025mm - K9218-00188 - 92180-0188
3.050mm - K9218-00189 - 92180-0189
3.075mm - K9218-00190 - 92180-0190
3.100mm - K9218-00191 - 92180-0191
Go to Rocky Mountain ATV and you can buy shims for $1.29 ea. They are the same shims that a KLX300 uses 7.48mm
The Versys is so easy to do the Valve adjustment, you could practically do it on the side of the road in an hour. With most of the time removing and re-installing plastic. It is so easy after I adjusted mine the first time at 8k miles, I pulled it apart and checked it again after a trip. Thank you Kawasaki for making such a simple bike to maintain :thumb:
Todd
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8,000 Posts
They're only in 0.05mm increments.
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739 Posts
Is there any way to know which shim thicknesses I need before taking the old ones out?
I would like to pre-buy shims, to minimize down time of the bike.
I checked my valves a while ago and all were at the tight end, just in spec:
Inlet 1 and 2: both 0.15 mm
Exhaust 1 and 2: both 0.22 mm
I would like to pre-buy shims, to minimize down time of the bike.
I checked my valves a while ago and all were at the tight end, just in spec:
Inlet 1 and 2: both 0.15 mm
Exhaust 1 and 2: both 0.22 mm
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1,229 Posts
The short answer is no, you can’t pre-determine what you’ll need...
You have to measure the current clearances – and then measure the current shim thicknesses – and then do the math to determine what you need to make them right.
Be sure to document everything so that the next time you do it you will be able to just check the clearances – and by already knowing the installed shim thicknesses – you’ll know what you need...
Of course you might then find that your installed shims have been worn thinner and so you’ll need sizes that are backordered from Japan until next year...
I suggest that go to your local shop(s) and make sure that they have a full selection of shims in stock before you tear it apart...
Good luck
PS, You can make them thinner. Emery cloth works but a good flat sharpening stone with cutting oil works much better.
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You have to measure the current clearances – and then measure the current shim thicknesses – and then do the math to determine what you need to make them right.
Be sure to document everything so that the next time you do it you will be able to just check the clearances – and by already knowing the installed shim thicknesses – you’ll know what you need...
Of course you might then find that your installed shims have been worn thinner and so you’ll need sizes that are backordered from Japan until next year...
I suggest that go to your local shop(s) and make sure that they have a full selection of shims in stock before you tear it apart...
Good luck
PS, You can make them thinner. Emery cloth works but a good flat sharpening stone with cutting oil works much better.
.
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1,229 Posts
FWIW, PowerSports360 was advertising their shims at $1.95 "5PK" (not each) — so I ordered an assortment of 210 shims (21 different shim sizes – two 5-Packs of each size). I received two shims of each size. When I called they said that they were $1.95 per shim. I then sent them a screen shot of their website clearly showing the $1.95 per 5pk pricing but they then sent me a link to a different page that showed $1.95ea.
I could have justified $80 to have a full assortment on-hand... but over $400 was just plain silly... so I gave up and sent them back.
I don’t even want to go into the credit card charge/credit fiasco that their incompetence entailed!
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PS edit.
Oops... I misspoke. Typo Corrected & highlighted
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