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Thanks Onewizard. 7 min give or take a few is no problem. Really glad you didn’t say 45 min to 1 hour! Do you wet sand?
Yes I had carbide paper , it lasts longer and does a better job, wet sanding. I posted a photo, what I did is take a 2X4 , 6 inches long, on the 1.5" side is drilled a extremely shallow hole, same diameter as the shim, at the center of the 6 inch length ,ground the drill bit similar to a milling cutter, the depth of the hole is about 55% of the thickness of the shim, this saves your finger nails and allows more even pressure, also reduces strain on your fingers.
 

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Checking valve clearances that are at or near limits can vary a bit depending how ham fisted the checker is. If the feeler gauge slips in fairly easily then you are within factory tolerances. If you have to force the feeler gauge then you are probably out of limits. By forcing you can get a reading you think is in limits but in reality is up to perhaps half a thousands tight.

If in doubt then it is time to re-shim, especially if you are on the tight limit.

Keep in mind that in spec is just that. If you are near the tight limit, as my bike is when checked about 1500 miles ago, you can still run it but should consider checking it again in around 5k thousand miles rather than the published interval.

Good luck.
And in reference to feeler gauges, I have been doing it a long time, with oil on the surfaces it is really hard, and that is why I use the go no go feeler gauges, you can feel the difference, and I will leave that to those people like myself that have used them to explain.
 

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Yes I had carbide paper , it lasts longer and does a better job, wet sanding. I posted a photo, what I did is take a 2X4 , 6 inches long, on the 1.5" side is drilled a extremely shallow hole, same diameter as the shim, at the center of the 6 inch length ,ground the drill bit similar to a milling cutter, the depth of the hole is about 55% of the thickness of the shim, this saves your finger nails and allows more even pressure, also reduces strain on your fingers.
Is there a particular reason you use a 2x4 6” long? I was thinking of a smaller sanding block perhaps 2x2 4” long. My guess is it doesn’t matter but wanted to confirm this with you.

I have a digital caliper with fine resolution, but purchased a micrometer for checking the shims. I read somewhere that shims can be slightly dished or have a lip on the outside which will render an inaccurate reading if a caliper is used.

Now I need to look into go no-go feeler gauge, may be time to replace my 45+ year old set.
 

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Is there a particular reason you use a 2x4 6” long? I was thinking of a smaller sanding block perhaps 2x2 4” long.

My guess is it doesn’t matter but wanted to confirm this with you.
Exactly, wasn't going to put my table saw together to shorten it.

I have a digital caliper with fine resolution, but purchased a micrometer for checking the shims. I read somewhere that shims can be slightly dished or have a lip on the outside which will render an inaccurate reading if a caliper is used.
They are so small in diameter I doubt you could measure a difference.

Now I need to look into go no-go feeler gauge, may be time to replace my 45+ year old set.
I have probably 10 different feeler gauge sets, been doing work on bikes for 40 years, to be honest, the go no go is what I use all the time now, check accuracy with your micrometer also , here is a example, increments are odd and even, that is
4mm / 6mm 5mm/7mm 8mm / 10mm so a brief explanation, say using the 5/7 it goes easy first then a bit harder , use the 4/6, if it goes in evenly all the way, then your thickness is 6mm.

https://www.amazon.ca/Performance-T...9520573&sr=8-1&keywords=go+no+go+feeler+gauge
 

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Using a stepped or go/no-go feeler gauge

And in reference to feeler gauges, I have been doing it a long time, with oil on the surfaces it is really hard, and that is why I use the go no go feeler gauges, you can feel the difference, and I will leave that to those people like myself that have used them to explain.
I've been using regular feeler gauges since the very early sixties.
I guess it's time to get up to date.

This explanation found on the net permitted me to see the usefulness of these go no go gauges.

"The stepped or go/no-go feeler gauge is more convenient to use in many cases than the common or flat blade type gauge. The blades of the stepped feeler gauge are of two thicknesses.
If the desired clearance is 0.011 inch, select the blade labeled ".010 - .012." One-half inch of the tip of a 0.012-inch blade is ground to a thickness of 0.010 inch.
If the 0.010-inch tip will enter the opening, but the blade stops when it reaches the 0.012-inch area, the clearance is between 0.010 inch and 0.012 inch or very close to the measurement desired, 0.011 inch."


Thanks for the tip! I'll be shopping.
 

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A More Detailed Explanation

I've been using regular feeler gauges since the very early sixties.
I guess it's time to get up to date.

This explanation found on the net permitted me to see the usefulness of these go no go gauges.

"The stepped or go/no-go feeler gauge is more convenient to use in many cases than the common or flat blade type gauge. The blades of the stepped feeler gauge are of two thicknesses.
If the desired clearance is 0.011 inch, select the blade labeled ".010 - .012." One-half inch of the tip of a 0.012-inch blade is ground to a thickness of 0.010 inch.
If the 0.010-inch tip will enter the opening, but the blade stops when it reaches the 0.012-inch area, the clearance is between 0.010 inch and 0.012 inch or very close to the measurement desired, 0.011 inch."


Thanks for the tip! I'll be shopping.
Like I said, someone will explain it better!!

:thanx::thumb::thumb::thumb:
 
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