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Discussion Starter #1
I was almost to 17,000 miles and knew it was past time to check the valves. I had already done an air filter and spark plug change so dove right in to the valve adjustment. Everything was good, two intake valves were at .152 mm, on the edge, so picked up two spacers at 2.95 mm and installed them. Everything looked good so it was time to torque em down.... One of the bolts snapped and not in an easy to reach way, about where the threads start so it can't be easily gotten to. So now I'm trying to figure out how to get that thing out... those bolts are hard and that aluminum is soft so I'm gunna need some better bits and maybe some advice. Any ideas guys?
 

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Everything looked good so it was time to torque em down.... One of the bolts snapped
Sorry to hear but this begs the question...what torque value were you using?

The book calls for 106 inch pounds for the cam cap bolts. Did you try and torque them to 106 foot pounds?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Well it took 2 days, some prayer, a lousy night's sleep, a lot of research, conversations with machine shops that either didn't want to do it or asked me to bring in the head.... In the end I used a center punch, drilled the bolt with a reverse cut bit and tried a couple size easy outs, but it came down to using a smaller bit and then a 1/8 inch reverse cutting cobalt drill bit. Whew!

Yeh, it could have worked out a lot worse. One thing that helped is that I took a piece of drip line hose (tubing) from my sprinkler system, wrapped masking tape around each drill bit and slid it into the tubing so that when I slid it into the cap and ran the bit down to the broken bolt that created a guide to keep the drill bit from moving around. Notice that the hole was right down the middle of the broken bolt. I watched several YouTube videos and came up with that solution to keep the drill straight. It also protected the much softer aluminum. (See the picture of my tools, one of the bits is still in the sleeve)

I used a 90 degree drill because there wasn't enough room for any other kind.
 

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Copy To How To / Valve Shim Thread

Well it took 2 days, some prayer, a lousy night's sleep, a lot of research, conversations with machine shops that either didn't want to do it or asked me to bring in the head.... In the end I used a center punch, drilled the bolt with a reverse thread bit and tried a couple size easy outs, but it came down to using a smaller bit and then a 1/8 inch reverse cutting cobalt drill bit. Whew!
Man you are one lucky guy, I ask if you followed any threads on this forum, I ask because what happened has happened to others including damaging one of the cam caps, they are precision machined, fitted in the exhaust and intake locations, not to be swapped, one member cracked one, not easily replaced. That has been stressed in both my valve shim threads and Fasteddie threads. Your post may help others.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Valve adjust gone wrong

Man you are one lucky guy, I ask if you followed any threads on this forum, I ask because what happened has happened to others including damaging one of the cam caps, they are precision machined, fitted in the exhaust and intake locations, not to be swapped, one member cracked one, not easily replaced. That has been stressed in both my valve shim threads and Fasteddie threads. Your post may help others.
Yeh, it could have worked out a lot worse. One thing that helped is that I took a piece of drip line hose (tubing) from my sprinkler system, wrapped masking tape around each drill bit and slid it into the tubing so that when I slid it into the cap and ran the bit down to the broken bolt that created a guide to keep the drill bit from moving around. Notice that the hole was right down the middle of the broken bolt. I watched several YouTube videos and came up with that solution to keep the drill straight. It also protected the much softer aluminum. (See the picture of my tools, one of the bits is still in the sleeve) Glad it worked out..... If you think my solution is helpful, you are free to use it.

Edit: I used a 90 degree drill because there wasn't enough room for any other kind.
 

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I used 11 foot pounds... misread the book! That's 132 in lbs. I used 130 to be "safe" guess not.
Not trying to be a douche but when you convert 106 inch pounds to foot pounds here is the result: 8.833333 ft-lb. Doing the math this results in a torque value of 26 inch pounds over torque on the bolt.

Combine this with possible torque errors with the foot pound scale torque wrench when using a value that low on the setting, could explain why the bolt snapped.

i would get a wrench calibrated in inch pounds before you try again.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Bad calc not so much Alfred E. Newman eyes

Not trying to be a douche but when you convert 106 inch pounds to foot pounds here is the result: 8.833333 ft-lb. Doing the math this results in a torque value of 26 inch pounds over torque on the bolt.

Combine this with possible torque errors with the torque wrench when using a value that low on the setting, could explain why the bolt snapped.

i would get a wrench calibrated in inch pounds before you try again.

Good luck.
No offense taken. What happened was that on the page (page 28 of the manual) of the torque values the torque of the caps (106 in lbs) was below the torque of the camshaft sprocket bolt (11 ft lbs). I read the wrong line and converted from ft lbs to in lbs. It was a reading error. I used a smaller torque wrench that's why I converted to 132 in lbs.
 
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