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Yes I am in the middle of doing a valve adjustment. I'm trying to determine the best way to proceed? You are recommending a specific brand of feeler gauges is that correct? Where did you purchase yours? What's your thoughts on sanding shims to increase the clearance? I had the plastics off the bike because I serviced the fork oil and I just wanted to get all the plastics out of the way. So while I had it that far apart I decided to inspect the valve clearance way after I should have. Thanks for the response.
First go through that thread, not much difference between a V650 and V1000. there are something like 5 threads on valve shim in this forum Technical Discussion / How To Posts/ All Models

The best way to describe these, the very start as a example below. 0.025 to 0.027 of a inch, at the beginning it is 0.025 and tapers up to 0.027 it is also 0.635mm to 0.686mm. I have probably 8 different sets of feeler gauges. The go no go are my prime gauges. It is very easy to force a larger gauge through without realizing this, the go no go gives a advantage as you can work across a range and feel the difference. I also use the gauges to verify my 3 decimal place micrometers. Hopefully you have experience using a micrometer, this is the one I purchased , made in China but extremely good quality and sold by a tool and die supplier Asimeto Outside Micrometer, 0-25mm - 7101012


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As to sanding, 5 minutes per shim maximum, measure several times, you can always continue sanding, when too much comes off there is no turning back. I have sanded shims on my 07 and on my 2015. Understanding that they are case hardened so the carbide sand paper, however you will never get through the hardening EVER-well if you sanded for a hour or two maybe, but then the shim would be way off spec.One thing many misunderstand, the shim is a spacer, the bucket gets all the wear, a ordinary piece of steel would work as a shim, although eventually you would get cold flow {In materials science, creep (sometimes called cold flow) is the tendency of a solid material to move slowly or deform permanently under the influence of persistent mechanical stresses. It can occur as a result of long-term exposure to high levels of stress that are still below the yield strength of the material. }

Several of us V650 owners have done this multiple times, also some V1000 owners, just not much in the way of V1000 posts.
Here is a recent one;
 

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WOW -it sure is nice to see how many members take the time to log in and post, this is the most apologizing in one thread I have ever seen:ROFLMAO:🤣:cool: I am surprised @invader hasn't posted, he is one of the first to suggest this sanding from a post in 2010 Valve Shim Sizes
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
First go through that thread, not much difference between a V650 and V1000. there are something like 5 threads on valve shim in this forum Technical Discussion / How To Posts/ All Models

The best way to describe these, the very start as a example below. 0.025 to 0.027 of a inch, at the beginning it is 0.025 and tapers up to 0.027 it is also 0.635mm to 0.686mm. I have probably 8 different sets of feeler gauges. The go no go are my prime gauges. It is very easy to force a larger gauge through without realizing this, the go no go gives a advantage as you can work across a range and feel the difference. I also use the gauges to verify my 3 decimal place micrometers. Hopefully you have experience using a micrometer, this is the one I purchased , made in China but extremely good quality and sold by a tool and die supplier Asimeto Outside Micrometer, 0-25mm - 7101012


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So I ordered this set will be here in two days. The micrometer I'm going to hold off on because I have two digital ones that I'll try first and if I truly needed it I'll borrow from my friend or purchase one? Thanks for the information and tool suggestions.
 

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So I ordered this set will be here in two days. The micrometer I'm going to hold off on because I have two digital ones that I'll try first and if I truly needed it I'll borrow from my friend or purchase one? Thanks for the information and tool suggestions.
you can verify your digital ones using the go no go-considering you are using those as a means of measuring the gap. It took me a while to go back to reading a micrometer, 0.0001 takes a while to understand how to read it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
As to sanding, 5 minutes per shim maximum, measure several times, you can always continue sanding, when too much comes off there is no turning back. I have sanded shims on my 07 and on my 2015. Understanding that they are case hardened so the carbide sand paper, however you will never get through the hardening EVER-well if you sanded for a hour or two maybe, but then the shim would be way off spec.One thing many misunderstand, the shim is a spacer, the bucket gets all the wear, a ordinary piece of steel would work as a shim, although eventually you would get cold flow {In materials science, creep (sometimes called cold flow) is the tendency of a solid material to move slowly or deform permanently under the influence of persistent mechanical stresses. It can occur as a result of long-term exposure to high levels of stress that are still below the yield strength of the material. }

Several of us V650 owners have done this multiple times, also some V1000 owners, just not much in the way of V1000 posts.
Here is a recent one;
Fantastic description and information. So it sounds like sanding shims is possible and that the small amount of what is would be required to achieve the desired thickness wouldn't compromise the shims integrity. Cause creeping? Does that sound correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
you can verify your digital ones using the go no go-considering you are using those as a means of measuring the gap. It took me a while to go back to reading a micrometer, 0.0001 takes a while to understand how to read it.

I hear you on that! 10ths, 100ths, 1000ths, 10,000ths. Plus without reading glasses forget it I could never read it. This may be a stupid question. Does the outside micrometer read in MM or inches?
 

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Fantastic description and information. So it sounds like sanding shims is possible and that the small amount of what is would be required to achieve the desired thickness wouldn't compromise the shims integrity. Cause creeping? Does that sound correct?
Consider the fact that you will never find a valve that is too loose. Be aware that you might find one valve with a 2.85 mm that is tight and one beside it with a 3.045mm that is within spec, The 2.85 may have a bucket that is thicker than the bucket in the 3.045 valve. Which is why I do one valve at a time.
 

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I hear you on that! 10ths, 100ths, 1000ths, 10,000ths. Plus without reading glasses forget it I could never read it. This may be a stupid question. Does the outside micrometer read in MM or inches?
Both, it is really neat to read both inch and metric on one device, however I own a precision vernier that does both. It is a whole lot easier on the micrometer over the vernier.digital is even better, I wear trifocals, so a vernier for precision reading gets difficult to determine the fine readings plus I don't have a wratchet mechanism controlling force on the fine adjustment verniers.
 
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If you're not up to the task, you can get 7.48 mm diameter shims (same as Versys 650/1000) in 0.025 mm increments (instead of only 0.050 mm increments) in 2.50 mm to 3.50 mm thicknesses!


Kawasaki 2006-2011 KX-250F shims $12.36 each... $7.79 from: 2007 Kawasaki KX250F (KX250T7F) Valve(S) | Part Shark

(Versys 1000 (and 650) shims only in 0.050 mm increments $16.25 each) $10.24 from: 2018 Kawasaki VERSYS 1000 (KLZ1000BJF) Valve(S) | Part Shark


0.025 incr. Shim --- Kawasaki #

2.800mm ---------- 92180-0179
2.825mm ---------- 92180-0180
2.850mm ---------- 92180-0181
2.875mm ---------- 92180-0182
2.900mm ---------- 92180-0183
2.925mm ---------- 92180-0184
2.950mm ---------- 92180-0185
2.975mm ---------- 92180-0186
3.000mm ---------- 92180-0187
3.025mm ---------- 92180-0188
3.050mm ---------- 92180-0189
3.075mm ---------- 92180-0190
3.100mm ---------- 92180-0191
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Consider the fact that you will never find a valve that is too loose. Be aware that you might find one valve with a 2.85 mm that is tight and one beside it with a 3.045mm that is within spec, The 2.85 may have a bucket that is thicker than the bucket in the 3.045 valve. Which is why I do one valve at a time.
Is it true that all the stock shims in the Versys1000 engine are 2.95mm? Or am I mistaken about this? The valves seat as they do and that's where the variations in clearances occur? This is why shims need to be changed. Does that sound correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
If you're not up to the task, you can get 7.48 mm diameter shims (same as Versys) in 0.025 mm increments (instead of only 0.050 mm increments) in 2.50 mm to 3.50 mm thicknesses!


Kawasaki 2006-2011 KX-250F shims $12.36 each... $7.79 from: 2007 Kawasaki KX250F (KX250T7F) Valve(S) | Part Shark
(Versys shims only in 0.050 mm increments $16.25 each) $10.24 from: 2007 Kawasaki VERSYS (KLE650A7F) Valve(S) | Part Shark

Shim ------ Kawasaki #

2.800mm - 92180-0179
2.825mm - 92180-0180
2.850mm - 92180-0181
2.875mm - 92180-0182
2.900mm - 92180-0183
2.925mm - 92180-0184
2.950mm - 92180-0185
2.975mm - 92180-0186
3.000mm - 92180-0187
3.025mm - 92180-0188
3.050mm - 92180-0189
3.075mm - 92180-0190
3.100mm - 92180-0191
How did you determine that Kawasaki 2006-2011 KX-250F shims will fit the 1000 Versys engine?
 

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