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I have just replaced the split vacuum pipe on my 2015 gen 3, I notice that there are 2 rubber capped of pipes on the throttle bodies, I’ve seen the vacuum mod threads on here but they seem to be for earlier models, would I benefit from doing the link up mod on my gen 3.
 

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I dont think linking them has a benefit as much as extending them so that a vacuum sync becomes a very easy service.
 

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HD use a linked intake/vacuum system and one carb however Kawasaki opted instead to keep intakes separate, with separate carbs, probably in part to uneven firing order in 650cc engine that means intake/vac pulses are not evenly spaced, therefore linking vacuum lines would have an adverse effect in an engine like this. The second cyl firing immediately after first would have less air and less vac



The adjustment balances the volume of air in each cylinder so they both have similar power pulses.
 

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I have just replaced the split vacuum pipe on my 2015 gen 3, I notice that there are 2 rubber capped of pipes on the throttle bodies, I’ve seen the vacuum mod threads on here but they seem to be for earlier models, would I benefit from doing the link up mod on my gen 3.
You have a split vacuum pipe, but still have both TB vacuum port caps? What is this split vacuum pipe you speak of?
 

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I have, over the years, done lots of work on 4 cyl carb / intake bikes and have experimented with linking vacuum ports in this manner, with the though of evening pulses. What I ultimately found was that all I was doing was creating a vacuum leak. As each cylinder came to an intake stroke, it was getting air from the other cylinders and screwing up the idle mix to the cylinder with vacuum. So can someone please explain to me the reason you are doing this mod, what the intended result is, and some type of technical explanation of why you feel it works?
 

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Not Sure about OP

Thanks so would I benefit from linking the 2 together
While doing my valve shim check, it was suggested to bring the capped lines out, which I did, they remain capped and are colour coded, I can now check my vacuum sync and more importantly, the condition of the valve shim tightness, ****poorly explained, but Steve posted a link about this https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/1317761-post30.html

I dont think linking them has a benefit as much as extending them so that a vacuum sync becomes a very easy service.
Linking them has been discussed 9 years ago by Invader, and not the capped lines. This post is exactly why I brought my capped lines out. 5 minutes and I can check my vacuum sync and be riding!!
 

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I knew a fellow audio geek would chime in eventually. :^)
 
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Was Discussing Tube Verses Solid State Today

I thought this thread was going to be about whether a 12AY7 could be substituted for a 12AX7, or something along those lines!
Old tube amplifiers are still the best, many don't understand, with electronics, you need to add filters to remove the noise, in a tube amplifier this noise doesn't exist. The only thing that has changed, is devices are able to handle much higher current and higher voltage than in the 70's. The other thing, good luck in finding anyone that can give you a equivalent part number byn telling them it is PNP and the emitter is this current and voltage , the circuit is common collector and it is used in a Elox machine. Amazing I could remeber it, more amazing I found some links


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It takes millions of transistors in a microprocessor to emulate the sound of one vacuum tube. A vacuum tube is the equivalent of one transistor. Sometimes the old fashioned way really is better.
 

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The old Soviet Mig-25 fighter jet used vacuum tubes in their onboard radar units.

Wonder if the pilots had better sound quality while playing their tunes during a dog fight...Lol.

Sound quality good enough to make Maverick and Goose proud?

 

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I'm a tube guy....
 
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