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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,


I'm at the middle of my maintenance.
I have a problem with the small maintenance port. I don't know how to unscrew it. The force someone used is extreme, moreover the screw is kinda "tired".
How is called the tool to unscrew it.



I was able to unscrew the bottom one, but the top one is stuck in the place.
How do I set the camshaft position in that case?
IMG-20210815-174427 this is how i have set the cam shaft. On the other side there are two gears with mark "-" that I have set straight with the timing head .


Question 2.

One of the denso spark plug has a crack on the middle. Do I have to change it.
Can i buy one or I have to change both of them?


Question 3.

Chain tensioner has gotten out to the middle. How to check whether it's good or bad? How far it needs to push out in oder to camshaft chain needs to be replaced?
Some of the side panels pins are broken. Is there a way to repair them?

One mechanic said that you don't adjust tps, is that right?

What are the values for vacuometr.
 

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You are lucky that is either a MK-1 or MK-2 . Small channel lock pliers on the outside, Counterclockwise. Small needle-nose vise grips same idea. Last , a fine chisel , on a 45 angle to the cap, driving from the top edge towards the rear of the bike, expect permanent damage. One other way, use a coin that just fits in the groove and use an adjustable.
No idea why you are at that stage without asking first. You have many questions that lack understanding, asking a mechanic that makes his living at it generally won't give for free what he gets paid for. The Denso stick coil can be changed as needed or replace with both, which makes no difference. Search Denso and use Invader as the member, recent changes in part numbers.

Ask again about the TPS , you need an accurate digital meter and a harness or use Invaders' homemade harness method.

 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You are lucky that is either a MK-1 or MK-2 . Small channel lock pliers on the outside, Counterclockwise. Small needle-nose vise grips same idea. Last , a fine chisel , on a 45 angle to the cap, driving from the top edge towards the rear of the bike, expect permanent damage. One other way, use a coin that just fits in the groove and use an adjustable.
No idea why you are at that stage without asking first. You have many questions that lack understanding, asking a mechanic that makes his living at it generally won't give for free what he gets paid for. The Denso stick coil can be changed as needed or replace with both, which makes no difference. Search Denso and use Invader as the member, recent changes in part numbers.

Ask again about the TPS , you need an accurate digital meter and a harness or use Invaders' homemade harness method.

"No idea why you are at that stage without asking first."
Well,

I knew I had to unscrew those two inspection caps, but I didn't expect that someone would put so much torque them while wrenching that I will have to use a long, fitting crowbar and channel lock pliers in order to get good leverage...
 

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"No idea why you are at that stage without asking first."
Well,

I knew I had to unscrew those two inspection caps, but I didn't expect that someone would put so much torque them while wrenching that I will have to use a long, fitting crowbar and channel lock pliers in order to get good leverage...
You need to have access to, as well as be able to select and properly use the right tool. You also need to know what to do and how to service an engine... In other words, to limit further damage, you quite urgently need to stop what you're doing now, and let a professional perform the job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi,


One of my Denso 129700-5350 is cracked. Can I replace it with 12700-4580 or they have to be replaced by a set of two?

Since the new one costs 130鈧 I will go with used one. What resistance should the coil have? If not, what voltage on the end I should have?.
 

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How do I set the camshaft position in that case?
IMG-20210815-174427 this is how I have set the camshaft. On the other side, there are two gears with the mark "-" that I have set straight with the timing head.


If someone I knew called me and said what is in your post--that would literally frighten me--why you posted that 174427 is beyond me--there are steps to be taken, long before the final resting place--there are two threads on valve shim check.

The chain tensioner has gotten out to the middle.
Do you have the service manual--it doesn't sound like it- I understand a language barrier - that chain tensioner once removed needs to be reset-- if you are not following the manual, it is a guaranteed way of destroying your chain and your motor.

Some of the side panels pins are broken. Is there a way to repair them?

Do you have a photo of this? That is scary. I am not asking who or how but, are you talking about the alignment pins? Or are you talking about the plastic--What year is this bike??

If this is an MK-3 and the plastic among other things--we are talking $$$$$$$$$ in possible damage if you don't follow as @invader said above---I know you are asking for help, which is why I added this post--If not for the photos -I would think you a spammer and joking with us, it is hard to believe anyone could get this far without asking on this forum--you have been on for a month!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I think I have been misunderstood. I currently disassembling the motorcycle because I'm doing some general maintenance.

Currently I have changed oil, oil filter, clutch cable, coolant, spark plugs, air filter (all with prescribed torques).I want to check valve clearances. To do that I have unscrewed camshaft cover, unscrewed throttle body because it was in a way and i couldn't take out the cam shaft cover. So I have everything ready, but... There are two inspection caps that I need to undo because first I need to rorate my camshaft, secondly I need to open the small inspection hole to get a view into the markings, to set my 1 cylinder into 1lT So I can actually start measure clearances of the first cylinder and that's where the problem starts. I have problem with loosening that small inspection hole cap. The previous owner seems to have used too much force and I don't want to damage that cap. I bought some circural gaskets that I want to use. I will try to apply the tape on the screw first to avoid any further.

The question still remains. What If I won't be able to unscrew it. How do I manually set the cam shaft in the right safe position.
I have found something in the manual:
And my setting looks the same especially considering that camshaft gears notches are in the line of the camshaft body.
According to manual the good position is when the pushers are directed \ / in such fashion.

About cam chain tensioner. Well I have taken it out in order to check how far it actually had to slide out to compensate the cam chain looseness and it was out in about 50% before I have installed it back I added a new oring, reseted the tensioner, screwed it back into position placed the spring, heard the zip sound, rotated the crankshaft a few times with my wrench.
 

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I always loosen those two "caps" by using a coin (in the jaws of a pair of pliers) as a 'screwdriver'.
 

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Maybe some penetrating oil? Or perhaps a heat gun for a bit of heat on the cap?

Impact driver?

I'd make getting that cap off a priority... but maybe there's a way to see the proper positioning without it.

Change the cracked plug holder. You can leave the one that is good but I'd change them both while I'm in there.

Tensioner: follow the manual.


Finally... good on you for doing your own maintenance:) My first time doing the valve check took much longer than it will next time; I made some rookie mistakes and learned a lot.
 

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I think I have been misunderstood. I currently disassembling the motorcycle because I'm doing some general maintenance.

Currently I have changed oil, oil filter, clutch cable, coolant, spark plugs, air filter (all with prescribed torques).I want to check valve clearances. To do that I have unscrewed camshaft cover, unscrewed throttle body because it was in a way and i couldn't take out the cam shaft cover. So I have everything ready, but... There are two inspection caps that I need to undo because first I need to rorate my camshaft, secondly I need to open the small inspection hole to get a view into the markings, to set my 1 cylinder into 1lT So I can actually start measure clearances of the first cylinder and that's where the problem starts. I have problem with loosening that small inspection hole cap. The previous owner seems to have used too much force and I don't want to damage that cap. I bought some circural gaskets that I want to use. I will try to apply the tape on the screw first to avoid any further.

The question still remains. What If I won't be able to unscrew it. How do I manually set the cam shaft in the right safe position.
I have found something in the manual:
And my setting looks the same especially considering that camshaft gears notches are in the line of the camshaft body.
According to manual the good position is when the pushers are directed \ / in such fashion.

About cam chain tensioner. Well I have taken it out in order to check how far it actually had to slide out to compensate the cam chain looseness and it was out in about 50% before I have installed it back I added a new oring, reseted the tensioner, screwed it back into position placed the spring, heard the zip sound, rotated the crankshaft a few times with my wrench.
First , please look over this thread first, post 3 has the tools required, there is a mistake in the service manual for all years as to cam position--the throttle bodies removal is the way to go--use dielectric grease when installing the stick coils, I explain the how and why in that thread. I have photos showing this, also explain about re-installing the cam chain tensioner.-also you really need a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench, zip ties, take photos and I recommend go no go feeler gauges.

 

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MK 1
Ignition Coil Winding Resistance
Primary Windings: 1.1 鈭 1.5 惟 ( the 2 pins at top )
Secondary Windings: 10.8 鈭 16.2 k惟 ( pin at top and sparkplug hole )

MK 2 is same

MK 3 is
Stick Coil Winding Resistance
Primary Windings: 1.11 鈭 1.50 惟
Secondary Windings: 6.4 鈭 9.6 k惟
 
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