as the compression ratio is extremely low for nowadays standards, are you seeing any badly tight clearance measurements at, let's say, 36k miles?
I'm glad they're putting the shims under the buckets. They didn't on the early Z1 900's, 1974 era. Shim was between lifter and cam lobe, easy to change out...but if you rev them high you can spit that shim right out the front, don't ask me how I know
Valve check & adjustment - page 2 - General Maintenance, Servicing, and Mechanical issues - Versys 1000 ForumWell, I guess shim checks are pretty much the same for any overhead cam shim under bucket type engine which is pretty much the standard these days.Personally I think it depends more on the mechanics attitude, does he have pride in his work or is he just there from 9 -5.Main reason I do it myself...www.versys1000.com
Some info on the above link. Personally if the bike is running good / fine , not need to worry on it.
Just curious, did you do that work yourself? If yes how bad was it? Asking because it's past time for the valve check/adjust on my V1K. I'm cringing at having the dealer do it due to huge bucks and not fully confident it will be done right. Was thinking of doing it myself but not sure if I'd be in over my head. The good thing is I'll have all winter to work on it 😂Just did check at 22k miles, everything was below nominal and one exhaust at minimum. Two intakes at minimum, two just above (.16), 3 @ .18, one at .25.
Reshimmed the whole shebang to be uniform at roughly 70% of max..... I don't want to go back in there for a long time......
Wow, this is very helpful. Thanks!Yes, I do all my own work. Follow this video, but I have some added notes.......
- the main wire harness is on the left end, very stiff, and he does not show how he removed #1 coil.... very difficult.
- before removing the valve cover, check for loose sealing washers, remove the loose ones to avoid losing them.
- not shown, but check your clearances at least twice to verify you were correct the first time. Before cam removal and after re-shim.
- his removal of camshaft caps is not best practice... undo all the bolts evenly in steps as the cams are spring-loaded by some lobes holding valves open. Don't want to break a cam, although perhaps I'm just being anal (it is described in the service manual. He was correct on re-installation, snugging up the bolts in steps.
- he did not show retracting the cam chain tensioner before re-install.
- he used too much RTV on the half moons, a smear is plenty (to avoid excessive squeeze-out on the inside). Same at the timing cover. Very little is needed.
After re-assembly of everything but the air box, check throttle body sync as it changes with valve clearance changes...... to avoid any possibility of error codes, I removed the intake air sensor from the housing and plugged it in before ignition on. I did my sync with the airbox off. The TBS is a whole procedure unto itself, the adjustment screws are hard to get at.... I have an aftermarket carb screw tool but the blade of the screwdriver was a little too tight, might want to verify ahead of time and file it down a bit.
Shims...... if you've got time to leave it open, you can order 7.48 dia Pro-X shims from RockyMountainATV, and "quarter" sizes are available.
What grit sanding cloth may I ask. I wet and dry sandpaper ok to use with oil on it?When I 'do' the V650 valves, I remove one SHIM at a time, then remove material from the shim using a piece of sanding cloth, to what's needed to attain the WIDE end of the clearances. Then I install that one and 'pull' the next.
I go along w/ the KLR credo - "a TAPPY valve is a HAPPY valve". OTOH - I've NEVER heard a tap from one of mine....