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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have Michelin RP 2's. The rear is wearing very evenly and well, lots of tread left, but the front is not. The harder compound in the center is not wearing down nearly as fast as the softer sidewall compound. I am not a "fast" rider but not a lot of the roads I ride are a straight line either. This wear pattern on the front tire produces a weird tire profile/shape which in turn gives kind of a weird sensation turning in. Is this what they call "cupping"? Should I replace this tire - it still has some tread left? Any suggestions on a good front tire?
 

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I have Shinko 009s and about to change my rear tire after almost 11k miles. The front still looks as if it will go another 9 to 10k. It should be good with your current tire. Never had a slip on the front and rear except maybe once when i locked the rear after a car suddenly stopped infront of me.:eek: I dont ride aggressively though.

:cheers: Gerald
 

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I'm not sure the above reply answered your question lol. Shinko salesman!!! :p

If you're finding uneven wear on a front tire, I would almost always say replace it. You don't want to be in a sticky situation and have to react quickly with a tire that doesn't behave as expected.

Couldn't really say it's cupping without seeing pictures... Here's a picture with the best cupping description I could find off-hand:
http://images47.fotki.com/v1403/photos/7/743956/4257462/motorcycle_tires_bt020_cup-vi.jpg
 

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I had a similar experience with the PR2's Better wear in the front than the rear, when I picked up a nail in the rear I replaced them both. Went back to the Pirelli Scorpion Trails.
 

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My rear PR2 wore very uneven. Sides were completely worn off and the tire needed replaced at 6500 mile.
The PR2's didn't impress me.
 

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(ADVrider forum) I've run several sets of Z6 and PR2s. If you are interested in longevity, I'd definitely stick to the Z6 up front if your going with an 880 in back. Z6 and PR2s both performed just fine for me... never slipped unexpectedly on either.

My Z6 front lasted as long as two Z6 rears while my PR2 fronts last about 1.25 the PR2 rears.... I get about the same the rear mileage from the Z6 or PR2 (3.0-4.5k), with both wearing out on sides before the centers.

One thing I really didn't like about the PR2 front is the use of the dual compound on the front tire.... if you ride a reasonable amount of twisties you'll always have a "V" profiling problem on the front (unlike the rear which is normally flat spotted). The dual compound on the PR2 front exacerbates the "V" profiling problem, tire gets "pointy" toward the end with scary quick "drop in" the corners. Not a problem if you change the front & rear at the same time though.
How about Metzeler's very well liked Sportec M3 Supersport?

http://www.metzelermoto.com/web/products/newproducts/sportec_m3/default.page

http://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/metzeler-sportec-m3-supersport-front-tire.html
 

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Hey Psalm 11_6!
The OP was asking for tire sugestions and i gave mine. What was wrong with that? :confused: If you can afford expensive tires for your cheap moto, i'm happy for you, you dont have to be sarcastic about people who buys inexpensive tires for their own cheap motorcycle.:mad:
 

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Like Snapper noted and as experienced by Sprocket, it is a problem with the front PR2's dual compound design, with a marked difference between the two durometers:

"One thing I really didn't like about the PR2 front is the use of the dual compound on the front tire.... if you ride a reasonable amount of twisties you'll always have a "V" profiling problem on the front (unlike the rear which is normally flat spotted). The dual compound on the PR2 front exacerbates the "V" profiling problem, tire gets "pointy" toward the end with scary quick "drop in" the corners."
 

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Heard from an experience rider on tire cuppings. Good tire pressure and suspension settings will avoid or reduce the cupping. Too soft the tire from low pressure, increases heat on the compound which encourages the shearing of rubber. A soft suspension cannot hold the tire's contact patch steady while doing a turn as the weight transfer keeps bobbing up and down which causes the patch to scrub even more unevenly. Hard to make sense without seeing them in action visually :( But a friend confirmed it as his cupped tires recovered after a few 100km's of twisties with the corrected suspension setting (made it stiffer by decreasing the damping settings). He was having the issues on his dual compound rear BT023.
 

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Sprocket is not talking about a cupping problem with his front dual-compound Michelin Pilot Road II. The harder compound in the center is not wearing down nearly as fast as the softer sidewall compound. This creates a squared-off elevated center portion that drops sharply on either side where the soft compound starts, making it look like this:



http://www.rattlebars.com/tirewear/index.html
 

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I bought an SV650 a couple of years ago that had a worn front like you're describing. People claimed that the bike had incredible handling, cornered well, etc. I didn't know what they were talking about because that tire was so bad! I finally understood the difference between a modern motorcycle and the old 70s and 80s bikes I was used to when I got a new front on there.

You'll notice a huge difference with good rubber on the front. :goodidea:

GDI
 

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You'll notice a huge difference with good rubber on the front. :goodidea:

GDI
Agreed. I just changed mine out and was astounded how much better it rode!
 
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