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Picking up my new Versys next Friday. (Minneapolis area, so riding it home is not an option). How are you people tying yours down? I have a Baxley wheel chock but am wondering if I need to buy any special straps or adaptors. I just use ratchet straps around the triple clamps on my Valkyria, but not sure how that will work on a Versys. TIA

BTW. this site helped me decide to buy this bike over several other choices. I previously had a KLR, but didn't like the weak front end and brakes.
 

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I use a Canyon Dancer strap on the bars with good straps and two more good straps off the rear hand holds. Bike doesn't move and Canyon Dancer keeps you from messing up stuff on the bars.

Might want to chock the wheels depending on how your trailer is set up.

Enjoy the new bike and welcome to the forum!
 

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Just remember that with some ratchet straps you can actually pull/warp/bend stuff. Nice and snug is all you need.
 

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My tie downs have loops so only the webbing contacts the bike. I lasso the triple like you said. Crank them down well. I think these front straps are the bulk of the holding power. Any reasonable rear location to keep the bike planted will do.

Of course, loading the bike is my weakness. Only time i tipped mine was a loading fiasco. It would have been an embarrassing youtube.
 

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Seeing as you have a wheel chock I would strap around the frame on either side of the engine. The rear sub-frame is also very strong if looking for more tie-down points. If you didn't have the chock I would have said to wedge the front weel into a front corner of your trailer. Enjoy your new bike.
 
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Not that clear but I use (search heavy duty "motrax") bar straps that cross over the bars/grips and clear the bodywork. Note that anything loose, even a foot of tie down can and will bash the fairing etc at speed. I run a couple of ties down for security. One to the rear trellis.

I;ve had some trialer horrors stories so dont skimp anymore and run a strap through the wheel to avoid any movement laterally, not so much a Versys but even on this trailer with a wheel channel, it can try to move sideways, defeating the tie downs. Worse on a flat bed I suspect. I also have had the open hooks come off on big bumps too (can compress suspension more than you'd think?) , so use heavy caribiners through strap holes on tie downs.

 

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...Worse on a flat bed I suspect. I also have had the open hooks come off on big bumps too (can compress suspension more than you'd think?) , so use heavy caribiners through strap holes on tie downs.
What I use to keep the "hooks" from coming off on BIG bumps, are bungee cords through the bottom of the hook where the strap goes, down to an eye-bolt. Works well. :goodluck:

And tie the wheel(s) so they can't jump out of the channel, EVEN with a front chock. :goodidea:
 

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After 35 years MC hauling experience, this is my simple system:
1) Some sort of wheel chock or slot for the front wheel
2) Standard motorcycle tie down straps, (not ratcheting)
3) one at each corner of the bike
4) at each of the four tiedown points, use a nylon webbing loop, looped around the handlebar or frame member and through itself forming a loop in which to hook the tie down hook. That's much easier on the finish than the tiedown hook itself. They also don't fall off easily if you hit a bump.
5) Do not totally collapse your springs or they will become "sacked".
If you want to go cheap, you can get tiedowns from Harbor freight for around $10 a pair and make your own nylon webbing loops with webbing from REI for less than a doollar per foot. It takes a 3' section of webbing to make a tiedown loop. Tie the ends together with an overhand/water knot/rescue knot (different names for the same knot).
 

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After 35 years MC hauling experience, this is my simple system:
1) Some sort of wheel chock or slot for the front wheel
2) Standard motorcycle tie down straps, (not ratcheting)
3) one at each corner of the bike
4) at each of the four tiedown points, use a nylon webbing loop, looped around the handlebar or frame member and through itself forming a loop in which to hook the tie down hook. That's much easier on the finish than the tiedown hook itself. They also don't fall off easily if you hit a bump.
5) Do not totally collapse your springs or they will become "sacked".
If you want to go cheap, you can get tiedowns from Harbor freight for around $10 a pair and make your own nylon webbing loops with webbing from REI for less than a doollar per foot. It takes a 3' section of webbing to make a tiedown loop. Tie the ends together with an overhand/water knot/rescue knot (different names for the same knot).
I use pre-made loops that are securely stitched.

There are only two tiedown manufacturers that I trust:

1) Ancra

2) M&R

Slide-buckle only. Must be pulled down hard enough against the front and rear suspension so there's no chance of a hook coming undone. If the bike leans from side to side going around corners, they're NOT tight enough. With an open trailer, both wheels should be strapped around the wheel and channel. This is to prevent the bike falling off if everything else fails. I haven't lost a bike in 40 years doing it this way, and have trailered many thousands of miles.
 
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