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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve got a 2016 v650 with oxford heated grips and an oem lighter plug I use to charge an iPhone. On a recent 280 mile trip I found after each stop my starter was sounding weaker and weaker. By the time I got home, barely enough juice to start. I put it back in the Optimate and it passed all the tests. I hooked up a multimeter and I get normal readings (12.4 at battery terms when stopped, 13.4 at idle, won’t go over 14.2 when revving.) Is it possible that these two accessories are drawing down faster than the system can recharge? I hope not because I was hoping to add some auxiliary lights as well!
 

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sounds like a bad stater . at above idle you should be reading 14+V
 

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your idle voltage should be at least 14v without oxfords heated grips on/or other extra battery draw. when i turn my oxfords on 100% the idle voltage goes down to 13.4v. but it shouldn't be that low when idling without the oxfords on. the fact it goes up to 14v with increased rpm could indicate your idle speed is too slow. adjust up to 1400 rpm and see if the idle voltage increases to normal 14v. i don't know how much a charging phone would draw. one wizard might chime in one this one.
 

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10AMP HR Battery

I’ve got a 2016 v650 with oxford heated grips and an oem lighter plug I use to charge an iPhone. On a recent 280 mile trip I found after each stop my starter was sounding weaker and weaker. By the time I got home, barely enough juice to start. I put it back in the Optimate and it passed all the tests. I hooked up a multimeter and I get normal readings (12.4 at battery terms when stopped, 13.4 at idle, won’t go over 14.2 when revving.) Is it possible that these two accessories are drawing down faster than the system can recharge? I hope not because I was hoping to add some auxiliary lights as well!
I would suggest getting your battery load tested once fully charged, you don't mention how many starts, the sustained RPM ( I assume most of your riding would be at or above 4000 RPM ) . Are you riding with the high beam on? Any additional lighting? Idle RPM should be 1350 to 1400 RPM, ( load testing is a must by a battery load tester), use a good digital voltmeter after you get confirmation that your battery is OK. At 1350 to 1400 RPM voltage should be 14 to 14.5 volts ( after warm up , off fast idle), if it isn't, try raising idle by 50 RPM, note change if any, report back here.

You may have charging problems, before I go there I want to hear back from you.
 

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I found that I had to unplug the flux capacitor to keep things working correctly. :grin2::wink2:
 

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I found that I had to unplug the flux capacitor to keep things working correctly. :grin2::wink2:
You ex-USAF guys p!ss me OFF - we ex-RCAF guys ONLY get to use the "steam-powered" goodies...:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update and apologies for some incorrect figures. After 24 hours on the optimate the battery is fully recharged and reads 12.8v with engine off. 14.2 at idle and at 300” it’s around 14.8. The bike starts but it’s definitely doing the slow and hesitant crank that I usually associate with a dying battery. The is a 2016 bike with 6000 miles so I would be unhappy if the battery was dead at this point, but I may take it to my dealer and see what they can do under warranty. If I do get a new battery, I’ve heard that there are some really good lithium ion batteries out there that perform well and weigh less. Anyone using these and have feedback?
 

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Update and apologies for some incorrect figures. After 24 hours on the optimate the battery is fully recharged and reads 12.8v with engine off. 14.2 at idle and at 300” it’s around 14.8. The bike starts but it’s definitely doing the slow and hesitant crank that I usually associate with a dying battery. The is a 2016 bike with 6000 miles so I would be unhappy if the battery was dead at this point, but I may take it to my dealer and see what they can do under warranty. If I do get a new battery, I’ve heard that there are some really good lithium ion batteries out there that perform well and weigh less. Anyone using these and have feedback?
My 2010 Moto Guzzi Cafe came with a Lithium Iron battery and when you lift it you think it is just an empty plastic case. I think they are more for the racer wannabes who are trying to shave off every ounce from the bike while being 30 lbs overweight themselves. It requires a specific tender to keep it going. Not worth the money to me, but my glass mat sealed batteries generally last until I part with the bike. I've gotten 7 years out of them. They are on a tender if I am not riding them frequently and when I ride the shortest distance before parking is 20 miles.

I recommend you watch your voltage while riding and the accessories powered on to see what is happening.
 

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lithium batteries

Update and apologies for some incorrect figures. After 24 hours on the optimate the battery is fully recharged and reads 12.8v with engine off. 14.2 at idle and at 300” it’s around 14.8. The bike starts but it’s definitely doing the slow and hesitant crank that I usually associate with a dying battery. The is a 2016 bike with 6000 miles so I would be unhappy if the battery was dead at this point, but I may take it to my dealer and see what they can do under warranty. If I do get a new battery, I’ve heard that there are some really good lithium ion batteries out there that perform well and weigh less. Anyone using these and have feedback?
See my post #11 --As to batteries, I use the original Yuasa AGM battery, usually get 5 to 6 years out it. Weight isn't a concern, if it was I wouldn't have the Trekker cases and Givi Top box.>:)
https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/170-technical-discussion-v-650/117074-lithium-ion-batteries.html?highlight=amp+hour+lithium
 

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That's a strange coincidence...

I have a 2015 Versys 650, and I never had any problem with the battery.... until today :O
and of course it cannot be at home, I was far away and the bike loaded to come back, with rain coming fast.

I had the feeling something is not right a few days ago when it didn't start right away, but then everything was good so I thought I just removed my hand from the starter button too soon.

Today in a hotel parking, I'm glad I found somebody with a booster cable and started the bike, I didn't stop until home :D

I have to check now the voltage and recharge the battery, but that's strange....
 

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ok, I did the check: (I rode the bike today since the morning problem for about 300km, most of it highway, LEDs on, but no other load on it)

battery is at 12.5, idle at 14.2 and 14.5 at 3k rpm.

The day before I had my usual LEDs DRL, charging my Nexus tablet 1A and a 2.1A charging the phone.
the night before I had my Xenon lights on, but they only use 70W.... I used them a lot before and I had no problem.

I don't know what to think.... is the battery dying ???
I'm getting ready for a week ride with my son, should I change it?

I put my charger on it, it showed green right away.
 

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ordered a new battery

I checked the voltage this morning, everything looks ok.
it started without a problem :O:O

I don't get what it could be.
 

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Similar situation / Stuck Thread

ok, I did the check: (I rode the bike today since the morning problem for about 300km, most of it highway, LEDs on, but no other load on it)

battery is at 12.5, idle at 14.2 and 14.5 at 3k rpm.

The day before I had my usual LEDs DRL, charging my Nexus tablet 1A and a 2.1A charging the phone.
the night before I had my Xenon lights on, but they only use 70W.... I used them a lot before and I had no problem.

I don't know what to think.... is the battery dying ???
I'm getting ready for a week ride with my son, should I change it?

I put my charger on it, it showed green right away.
So a very similar situation happened and I meant to add it to the How To Forum, I would advise charging the battery and getting it load tested, I have suggested this before, a little vibration and a worn separator can cause a short within the battery, testing on a load tester produces enough current / heat, to show up. I included a former post with that exact problem.https://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/170-technical-discussion-v-650/131474-another-charging-issue-thread.html
 

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12.4 not started and 14.5 at idle
12.4 is only a 70% state of charge so its actually a discharged battery... while its not terribly low, its still low... a fully charged battery will read 12.7 without a surface charge (sitting overnight)

I would try and get a good charge into it and it it continues to read low, it's probably bad
 

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the new battery is charged, 12.8, ready to be installed.

is there any other issue that might come up if the battery is not the source of the problem?
the bike did start right away when boosted.
 
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