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Discussion Starter #1
You'd think I'd done this, but not yet. If you've installed serrated dirt pegs on Speedy's lower blocks tell us what pegs you used, what other parts you needed, what modifications you needed to do, and please show pics.

I actually have a set of DRZ400 pegs. Drilling out the bolt hole is easy, but the DRZ pegs need to have some metal built up/welded on to engage the side of the Speedy lowering block. Without this the peg will just rotate downward when stepped on.

As I have no welder, or access to one, I am hoping that some other off road footpeg will have enough excess metal that grinding some of the excess metal off until it engages Speedy's block properly.

So share. If you've done this please tell all.
 

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I used Ebay's Yamaha TW200 pegs. They just had to be drilled to 15/32" (12 mm), narrowed a bit with a file and ground down slightly in the back for proper seating angle... It was then a direct fit to my Speedy lowering blocks when I got them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
invader said:
I used Ebay's Yamaha TW200 pegs. They just had to be drilled to 15/32" (12 mm), narrowed a bit with a file and ground down slightly in the back for proper seating angle... It was then a direct fit to my Speedy lowering blocks when I got them.
That's what I like to hear. My DRZ pegs, which I wanted to use because I already owned them, require too much work.

The only pictures I've seen of TW200 pegs were not on Speedy's lowering blocks. Can you take a few close ups of the peg loose and modified, and also mounted?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Jungmann1 said:
Here is little something for you. I used pegs for a CR250.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...ead.php?t=5296
You're simply not allowed to post in this thread unless you post pictures of your pegs on the Speedy's lowering blocks. LOL

I did read your thread, and it's good to know that the CR250 pegs did work on the lowering blocks.

So far I'm leaning more toward cheaper eBay pegs, like the TW200 ones invader used. But who knows if CR250 pegs are just as cheap on eBay.

The idea behind this thread is to determine which pegs need the least amount of rework.

I may investigate Kawasaki KLR 650 or other Kawasaki off road pegs. I'm thinking that the pegs for a Kawi off road bike may already have the larger hole. drilling is easy, but not having to drill is easier still.
 

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You asked for it!! My "eBay" pegs arrived today (very quick considering they came from the far East). After LOTS of grinding, here's how they look on Speedy's lowering kit. Very solid on there, but they do tilt forward a bit. Not sure how I'm going to like that but I'll give them a try for a week to see if I get used to it. If so, they can stay, if not I'll go back to stock for now. More to come later.







EDIT: These are the pegs I used:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330547622989

I messed up on the first one. I began grinding before I drilled out the hole for the bolt. Got it to work, but when I did the left side, I drilled it out first, and turns out that it is a direct bolt-on fit without needing to grind the metal. I modified the first one so much that now I'm not satisfied with the symmetry of the two, so I just ordered a 2nd set so I can do the right side correctly. Live and learn!

Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the pics emdavis197. I'm not sure if I'd like that much forward tilt. I'll hold off on the TW200 pegs until I hear how you like them.

Meanwhile the CR250 pegs that Jungmann1 modified don't have much noticeable tilt when installed without Speedy's lowering blocks. I'd still like to see pics of they're mounted now, which is on the Speedy's blocks.
 

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Steven, here's a pic of the left side. I did this one "the correct way". Just drilled out the holes, no grinding required. As you can see, much less forward tilt, and the little bit of tilt that it has works well with a bent-knee riding position. Very comfy. Just ordered another set so I can pull off the right side and do it the simple and proper way!


Eric
 

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You can choose how much tilt you want on the left peg when installing, no matter which pegs you're using. Left side peg assumes a stronger angle if you don't hold it back when tightening.

No need to make them as narrow as stock to install on Speedy's lowering blocks, but Speedy's supplied bolts would then be a bit too short to go all the way in the nut's locking portion.
 

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Invader. Would you do that by changing the angle in which you drill the hole? Or by the way you grind? Or both? On the Motowerk lowering blocks, the mounting face between the block and the peg would have to be ground to change the angle.

Having said that, the way i have them in my last pic seems perfect for me. Very solid, good angle (not too steep) and I like the way they look and feel.

Thanks!
Eric
 

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Invader. Would you do that by changing the angle in which you drill the hole? Or by the way you grind? Or both?
Neither. The left peg mount rotates a bit. Hold the peg at desired angle while tightening hex bolt. If you don't, it assumes a more angled position. Right side has little play with the footpeg mount plate's hex bolts.
 

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Thanks Invader. I found these pegs based on your post. I think they'll be a great improvement. What a bargain, even though I had to buy two sets.

Do you have the Motowork lowering kit on your bike?

I threw the stock peg set in my saddlebags. Nice insurance and easy field-swap should anything go awry in a get-off.

Eric
 

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No lowering kit... Speedy's supplied bolts are barely long enough for the lock nuts, even with peg narrowed just enough to fit without lowering blocks:









 

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Gotcha. That's what I meant to ask. Looks good. I saw the same thing with the nylon lock nuts. I torqued them down pretty good to compensate. Looks like *some* of the threads do make it into the nylon, but not all the way through.

thanks!
Eric
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I found that the bolts Speedy supplied were too short when used with my stock pegs, but blue loctite fixed that. I keep meaning to buy longer bolts, but the memory is not what it used to be.
 
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