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Discussion Starter · #441 ·
gathering some parts, coming soon to the Versys 650 world, the 2023 V649 Urban Scooter, but we'll just call it the Scooter for short.

let the cutting and swaps begin...no big suspension on this one, don't need it for jumping them curbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #443 ·
Ok JD... that sounds like what I might try to build. I don't know how much cutting I'll be doing however. Probably just swapping and painting. Curious as to what you do.
definitely some cutting and welding in store for the Scooter. sorting through my parts inventory, trying to keep costs very low, like cheap. i don't have a cop motor on hand, but i do have a couple Versys motors. the easy decision cost wise would be to use one, but i'm undecided, i like my cop motors...not that the Versys motor wouldn't get me around town with a 49T rear, gotta be able to jump them topes with style.

doing some casual research, the used parts market has gone nuts right along with the used bike market, seems like you have to shop harder for some very common components at the right price.
 

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I'm trying to figure out how to replace the terrible side covers... the angular plastic ones that cover the radiator and various bits. Using cardboard to mock up a simple shape that can be fabricated. We'll see...
 

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Discussion Starter · #447 ·
You haven't. I'm trying to figure out a good design that's easily outsourced as I don't weld:(
if you don't weld, it's either by choice or lack of space. it has nothing to do with available instruction, and the cost of 120V welders is relatively low, and can be found used too. instruction video on the youtube, must be a thousand, if you don't have someone to get ya started.

remember these...my 20 y/o grand daughter did all the bending and welding for this yard art, i just did the cutting for her per her designs. her mig welding instruction duration was 10 minutes, and by the second project, her welds were as good as mine. she had no prior welding experience, no bending experience either. man, there was a lot of bending in her designs. all the welding done with a $275 used Hobart 120V mig. i had a bigger mig, but the smaller 120V gun fit her hand better. these small 120V welders are ideal for bike work where you're dealing with light gauge steel.





for this one, we facetimed her design and i put it together.

 

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You're probably right; maybe THAT will be my winter project: learning how to join metal using heat and electricity. I've probably spent enough over the years on small welding tasks to pay for a decent machine by now. Was always intimidated by the process... but seems an easy skill to dive in to.
 

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2017 Kawasaki Versys-x 300 (non ABS)
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Reminds me I need to work on my welding skills too. I had an old Lincoln AC225 "buzz box" back in the day -- that I used a lot when I worked on bumpers and mounts and such on my Land Cruiser. I was "decent" at best. I bought a Hobart 135 (110ac) might for light work ... that I haven't used much "beginner" at best on that one 🤦🏼‍♂️

Thanks guys for the encouragement 👍🏻
 

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Discussion Starter · #450 ·
... but seems an easy skill to dive in to.
the small 120V 140A welders such as the Hobart, Miller and others are advertised as mig/flux core, but plan on getting a tank because you won't be doing any flux core welding unless you run into an odd fab or repair job away from your shop/garage space.

like i said, watch for used welders, and be ready to jump if you find one, they sell very fast. i bought my like new Hobart Handler for $275 with the cart when they were selling new for over $500. the seller was trying to weld with flux core, made a few goober welds, gave up, then sold it cheap. i used it quite a bit, liked it, but sold it for $400 and bought a bigger 120/240 Hobart which i also like.

there are all kinds of youtube reviews for any welder you might consider buying.
 

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@jdrocks Im not sure if its covered on this thread but do you ever modify the steering stops to gain tighter steering? ive noticed just pushing my bike around my garage and driveway and riding around my scrap pile that i really need more angle
 

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Discussion Starter · #452 ·
@jdrocks Im not sure if its covered on this thread but do you ever modify the steering stops to gain tighter steering?...
the turning radius of the Versys is a subject that gets some discussion occasionally. take a look at the clamps/forks when turned hard against the stops, any more movement and you get into interference issues in one or more locations. in terms of degrees, you might gain a few by shaving the tab, but i've looked at it a few times myself and decided it wasn't worth it.

the complications are easier to see with all the plastic out of the way, but the tank still on, although it's not on in the photo.



i'm now running KX450 clamps/forks, so a steering stop mod was necessary. the hubs on the dirt bike wheels are narrower than a typical cast wheel, so the centers of the clamps are closer than the OEM Versys clamps. without the new steering stop, the KX clamps and fork tubes hit the Versys frame and tank.



the new V649 scooter build goes back to OEM Versys clamps.
 

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the turning radius of the Versys is a subject that gets some discussion occasionally. take a look at the clamps/forks when turned hard against the stops, any more movement and you get into interference issues in one or more locations. in terms of degrees, you might gain a few by shaving the tab, but i've looked at it a few times myself and decided it wasn't worth it.

the complications are easier to see with all the plastic out of the way, but the tank still on, although it's not on in the photo.



i'm now running KX450 clamps/forks, so a steering stop mod was necessary. the hubs on the dirt bike wheels are narrower than a typical cast wheel, so the centers of the clamps are closer than the OEM Versys clamps. without the new steering stop, the KX clamps and fork tubes hit the Versys frame and tank.



the new V649 scooter build goes back to OEM Versys clamps.
Oh ok, yeah that makes sense. The turning radius sucks lol but dont want the forks smacking the tank
 

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Discussion Starter · #454 ·
getting set to drop the Versys motor out of the scooter parts bike, all the M8s on the front mounts were tight, but the main motor mount bolts were what i would call loose, barely enough torque to keep them from falling out. kinda finger tight on the left, not much more. there are no indicators that these bolts have ever been touched post factory assembly, but the finding is consistent with the other ptwin ER6 bikes i've disassembled previously. the right side M8s are the usual suspects, but i've seen the mains loose too. the rears are usually tight, but there have been a few exceptions.

adding locker helps, but it's not a guaranteed solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #455 ·
bare scooter frame. clean 2nd gen title, no wreck, no salvage...ready for the cut, grind, weld phase, after some other things take place. seems a shame to cut up a perfectly good frame, but on the other hand, it's a cheap bike, who cares.



i've seen plenty of these on the ER6 frames, said to be the cause of inevitable electrical gremlins. better to have a proper connection, but i've started and run the motors without any connection at all. lots of odd stuff with the main harness, it's so poorly assembled i'm surprised the bikes run at all. if you ever happen to take one apart, it looks like it was put together by a child. with the conditions found in some of those overseas factories, maybe it was.

 

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Discussion Starter · #457 ·
swapping some tires around on the scooter wheels. i always change my tires by hand, ain't a big deal, and ya don't have to take them somewhere for the change. the way some of these service departments charge per tire, it pays to do your own work. crank up the rock an' roll, change a couple.

one thing i learned a long time ago was to mark the rotation direction arrow with a silver Sharpie, part of the shop error prevention program. i need a set of wheels with tires so i can turn the scooter build into a roller, makes everything easier.


 

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Discussion Starter · #458 ·
i've had a few questions on the reason i haven't run a 17" DL1000 rear wheel along with the 19" DL1000 front on the V649HP bikes since up until recently both used a 20mm ID bearing, seems like one of them no brainer deals, but...

the SV650 rear wheels i've been using have a better sprocket carrier design, looks much better, and easier to keep clean. i thought i had a SV1000 rear wheel, but on closer inspection, it's either a SV650 or similar Suzuki model. manufacturers use the same wheels on a bunch of different models, Suzuki plays that game too.

sprocket carrier in the process of being polished up, it's a chunk of mill finish aluminum, no paint.



the OEM wheel bearings on these bikes where not sealed, all have been bad. the hub bearings on this wheel were free, but the carrier bearing was frozen with rust.

 
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