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Discussion Starter · #501 ·
i've been using a KLR250 folding footrest for the new folding end on the brake pedal for the V649 bikes, but the inexpensive supply of footrests from the models years i was using seems to have dried up. the low cost footrests are missing pins, bent, have no or broken return springs, or are left side. vintage Honda XR250 footrests are very close in size, and have a better return spring, lets try those.

the mounting bracket for the right side rest gets clipped off, and the welds will get ground flush with the back of the footrest stirrup before being positioned and welded to the OEM Versys brake pedal.

i'm replacing the power cord on that new grinder, then i'll smooth up the back of Honda folding end. the left side footrest shows the type of heavy mounting bracket that bolts to the frame on the Honda. the part gets sandblasted for paint prep.


 

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Discussion Starter · #502 ·
as mentioned, one of the great things about the Z1000 50mm upper fork clamp is that it uses a conventional damped handle bar mount. the OEM mounts are 7/8", i use 1 1/8 fat bars these days, so i need suitable bar mounts. the V649HP uses ProTaper mounts, robust, and the mount is eccentric so that you have a little adjustment front to back, so i ordered another set. don't be tempted by knockoffs at a slightly lower price tag, these are the ones you want.

i've run the ATV High bend since forever, so the Scooter gets those Contour bars. i may run a riser, we'll see after i check the fit with the bike assembled. The Contours are tough, the V649HP has been down a bunch of times and the bars are still factory straight.




 

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Discussion Starter · #503 ·
the last V649HP got some aluminum plate, now the Scooter needs it too. when it comes to aluminum plate, i prefer the kind that's both battle tested and has the ability to fly. this particular piece survived a battle with a drunk driver, then flew right into the back of my truck.

 

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Discussion Starter · #504 ·
with the prelims complete, let's go ahead and clip the back of the subframe clean off, yikes, might hurt.

i can't have anything move during the process, so a stabilizer was accurately fitted to a pair of existing mounts. these OEM mounts are stout, and are used for pannier rack attachment points, strong and stable.



i'm going to shorten the subframe 100mm, and the cuts need to be as accurate as possible. i've found these Kawasaki frames to have some unexpected variances, there must be an acceptable tolerance at the factory, but you need to pick a point and index from there. there's a small flat on the back of the brackets i was anchored to, and that was my index, with the actual cut location to the rear. a cutoff disc is used, but it's still a freehand cut, so i clamped on a small piece of angle to use as a guide. if you look at how the subframe is designed, there's a double tube at this location, and only the top tube is being cut. a stitch weld joins the tubes, and this weld is carefully removed prior to the cut.



quit procrastinating, cut that thang...

 

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Discussion Starter · #505 ·
i'm going to run a 310 or 320mm left side rotor, but what happens with the right side, i hate leaving a bare hub. usually i would cut the small center out of a junk rotor, the size the same as the face of the hub. let's make a mini wave this time, try that out instead.



 

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Discussion Starter · #506 ·
now that the end of the subframe is loose, i can put it on the bench and remove 100mm of tubing from each side. this section still sits in the deformed tubing underneath it, but i still fitted some additional tubing for both alignment and strength. the end of the subframe starts to curve past the cut and will only take a firmly seated 20mm insert section, while the exposed end which inserts into the remaining subframe is 30mm. the cross plate was trimmed so the sections would mate at the 100mm mark.



since everything was locked off and couldn't move after the cuts, the shortened subframe section was installed with zero drama, and the new assembly didn't have any movement. a final measurement against the index flat, and the subframe was tacked back together with the MIG. 100mm clipped out of the subframe doesn't sound like much, but there's a marked difference in appearance. this design exercise is a challenge, but i have a good idea of what i want.

 
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