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Discussion Starter #142
For an "old fart" you do some PDG work w/ steel.
:cool:
you're talking to the guy who at age 10 spent some of his paper route money and bought a new oxy/acet outfit complete with tanks, and started gas welding stuff together. kind of unusual for neighbors to stop by to ask a young kid to weld their lawn mower handle back together, or fix this or that. at least mom and pop didn't have to worry about me playing with matches.

reckon i should know by now how to stick things together...like steel.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
as mentioned earlier, scrapped hours of fabrication for an almost complete front end, changed direction, sourced some different parts, oh yeah...gone Euro, and everybody says that means extra horses, plus lots on the top end. these are considered OEM parts for the V649HP at this point.

besides the LEDs, the alert viewer might recognize the source of these parts. i fell into the fairing for cheap cheap, new condition, never have seen one for private sale in NA before or since...mucho pesos from the Euro source.

the fender selection is not original to my design shop, a similar setup was used by my Texas Versys rider friend years ago, and for a fact he donated his original modified fender to the V649HP project, but i just couldn't make it work, had to source a new one. bottom line, not his actual fender, but it was his idea to use the fender from a specific Euro moto, gotta give the man credit.

 

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Are those LED's from Amazon? I've gotten a few of them there and they've been great. I'm curious if you have a source for "higher quality" lights or if they are all pretty much the same...
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Are those LED's from Amazon? I've gotten a few of them there and they've been great. I'm curious if you have a source for "higher quality" lights or if they are all pretty much the same...
i've used what are supposed to be higher quality LED lights, but all they really were is way more expensive...like 10-20x. so yes, i've been running Amazon LEDs since they became readily available, just identify the style/size you're looking for and check the ratings, some have been rated 1000 times. i've broken several of the expensive lights after flopping the bike, there was some pain there, but not one of the cheap ones, yet.

for the touring, adventure touring, or gravel runner set, the aux lights are a must. put the bike on the ground or have the main OEM lights fail for some reason, you can still advance with the aux lights. my auxiliaries are always on a dedicated switch and relay, completely separate from the OEM lighting circuits. while a relay is not required with the LEDs, i use one anyway so that i can swap in a conventional 35W tractor light if necessary while on the road in BFE.

i've come home on nothing but auxillaries twice, once after a major wreck in Montana that destroyed the mains, and once coming in from West Virginia when both high and low beams failed on the mains. middle of the night, raining, got a flat too. fun trying to fix a flat in a driving rain, but i did, and got home...made a long day.

this bike will eventually get 4 Amazon Leds.
 

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Awesome. Right now I'm running one LED, yellow, on the left hand side. It's on a dedicated switch, powered through the aux relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
Awesome. Right now I'm running one LED, yellow, on the left hand side. It's on a dedicated switch, powered through the aux relay.
one yellow, c'mon man, mount a pair of freakin' flame-throwing LEDs on there, like one mile reflective range, hit that switch, ride home.

one other thing i always do is to have a 3/8 mounting hole available, that way the mount will accommodate just about any light that comes to hand in an emergency. the large hole gets sleeved to a smaller size if required for the usual metric LED light mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
getting back to work, but i took a minute to freshen up my old chineseum lift, it's seen lots of use. HF i think used to have these on sale for $149, damn good value. i'm trying to recollect what i had to pay used for this one, maybe $100, craigs list, and the guy was only a few miles away. if you get a chance to buy one cheap, don't hesitate, the lift makes a big different on your moto work.

 

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Discussion Starter #149
as many inmates know, these can fail from something as simple as gravity, so i'm blaming gravity.



 

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Discussion Starter #150
never fails, when i start to mount the new stanchion guards, damn, the tapped mounting lugs for the front on both sides are nearly stripped. it's a bad design to start with, should be a heavier lug like the one on the back, 3x the thread contact. plan A, mix up some JB, coat the remaining threads using a Q-tip, then run a M6 tap through the lug. i do have a plan B, let's see how this works out first.

 

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one yellow, c'mon man, mount a pair of freakin' flame-throwing LEDs on there, like one mile reflective range, hit that switch, ride home.

one other thing i always do is to have a 3/8 mounting hole available, that way the mount will accommodate just about any light that comes to hand in an emergency. the large hole gets sleeved to a smaller size if required for the usual metric LED light mount.
Haha nice. If I had your welding skills I'd do the same on my bars. Really like your improvements on the SWM bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
Haha nice. If I had your welding skills I'd do the same on my bars. Really like your improvements on the SWM bar.
putting a nick in the radiator end cap while out in the freakin' Arizona desert caused me to consider some changes on those Motechs. i was in tough shape, if i had knocked a hole in it i could have patched it with JB, but i didn't have any water to put in it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #153
remember those turn signals...

out with the old POS mount, in with the new used mount i had on the shelf, good to go.



...or not. the new used mount was also a POS and broke when i set it in the fender mounting hole. i did swap in a fourth, so now the left side is complete. now i need to source my inventory, see if i have any more mounts so i can install the right side.



JB set up, ran the M6 tap, and mounted the stanchion covers, seems solid.



note the bored axle, saves tons of weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
I wonder - are those "metric tons" or "avoirdupois"...?

;)
Senor Fast, metric moto, metric ton. a practical example for the use of avoirdupois in the moto world would be in reference to Hardleys, and in that case, the term could convey more than one meaning. besides, you're the spanglish dude with the learner's permit, so it's tonelada métrica to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
the brand new battery installed at the start of the build didn't like being left on the charger since freakin' forever, so now this bike gets another new battery. lowest miles ever for a new battery...zero.

however, these ptwin motors don't seem to mind sitting idle, thing started instantly, as usual.
 

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Discussion Starter #157
got to mount the euro fender, big ol' Husqvarna thing, coincidental, since i used to race a Husky back in the stone age. getting the fender in place is one of those must do activities since there are other custom assemblies that get mounted on the front end.

metric bike, and i'll go ahead and say once again, these moto dimensions are generally modular on 5mm. if y'all can't read a metric scale to save your soul, take a guess at 5Xmm, odds are you'll land where you need to be.

KX forks are tapped M6 on 65mm x 55mm, while the Husqvarna is 60mm x 60mm on formed holes in the fender, no big deal, we'll fab up a sandwich in aluminum plate. the tricky little piece for the underside of the fender should be fitted, and you can fly the width, it's not critical within a mm or two. don't bother, stay modular, let's use 95mm. 95mm is a good choice because the KX fastener layout is on 65mm, subtract ya get 30mm, divide by 2, ya get 15mm, a nice clean modular number and that's where you set your machine square for layout. the other layout number is by measurement since there's no modular index, except you know the spacing at 55mm.



small fabricated plates for both top and bottom on the fender.



a carbide scribe is your friend, you can't produce an accurate layout with a pencil or marker.



the underside plate is fitted, a little metal carving, it's just aluminum so the work goes fast.



plates get painted, Husky mounting holes get reamed a few mm, then the fender gets mounted, should be solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
fender mounted...



took a minute to reroute the throttle, clutch, electrical. i had the OEM frame clip mounted, but must have ignored it when i hooked up the lines. next up, Cycra ProBends salvaged from the scrap bin and beaten back into shape on the anvil, man, i must have wrecked a little harder than i remember. mirrors, i don't even recall what bike these came from, well used, but cleaned up well and look good.

then on to one of my least favorites, break out the West epoxy and fiberglass mat to beef up the Rally Raid fairing. this fairing is very nicely executed from the factory, but not durable enough for the dude who tends to flop the moto at inopportune moments. the Rally Raid folks might have a freakin' stroke when seeing one of their pricey products end up on a nickle and dime rat bike instead of a nifty KTM690.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
looked around for some used signals to match what i already had, then wait a sec, this is stooopid. why would i want some 10 year old signals that are already proven to fall apart all on their own? refocused, but they still had to be, ya know, cheap...let's try the chineseum knockoffs.



these have a little more compact lens assembly, but borrow the somewhat longer stem design from the elongated lens signals found on later model Kawasaki ER6 motos. the knockoffs do fit the proprietary pear shaped Kawasaki mount, but the keeper is not designed to accept the mounting lock, don't ask me what is supposed to hold them in place. no matter, just use the keeper/lock from the junk signals. likewise, the signals are furnished with micro bullets, so you'll splice on the pigtail from the OEM signal so that it's a direct connect to the bike harness.

i prefer the size and shape of these signals in the OEM or aftermarket product because they tuck in behind the custom Berg Briggs style pannier racks, making them very well protected. y'all listenin', i need to make stuff well protected.
 

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Discussion Starter #160
remember those nifty Rally Raid fairing panels, the ultra thin and light, flawlessly manufactured, yeah, those. they work just fine for other riders just the way they ship, mount 'em up to your KTM690 and ride away. they're just too fragile for me, i'm rooted in the armor-up camp these days.

the fairings got hit with West epoxy resin, including a colloidal silica mix in any tight radius areas, a layer of FG cloth, another layer of FG mesh, then another layer of FG mesh in any critical areas that i thought might need it. the fairing parts are now probably 3X heavier, and at least 10X stronger, ready to go through the trim-to-fit, sanding, and cleanup process to mount on the front end. lots of extra work, but i don't want fragile on this moto.

 
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