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Did a little farkling over the weekend on my new 650LT with the goal of adding a switched, 6 slot fuse block to supply power to any electrical goodies I wanted to hook up. Initially I needed one of the switched circuits for my heated clothing.

Here are the main parts I needed to do the job (this picture actually shows the parts I used on my long gone, Honda ST1300 but they are the same as the parts I used on the Versys). I got the parts from Radio Shack, an Auto Parts Store, and Home Depot, so no need to order anything online:





Because there is not much available space under the seat, I wound up having to remove the OEM tool kit and use the space it occupys for the fuse block and ground buss. Everything is velcroed in place. The relay occupies a small open space behind the tool kit compartment. The picture below shows everything installed and hooked up. Sorry that some of it is hard to see.

The green wire running from the battery's negative terminal goes to the 8 terminal ground strip. All of the terminals on the strip are joined by a metal jumper strip. All ground wires will originate from these terminals. Note that the ground wires are all solid green, a convention used by Honda. Much easier to identify than Kawasaki's ground wire color code.

You'll note that in addition to the main negative feed from the battery, there are two additional wires connected to the ground strip. One of these wires goes to the relay. The other is the negative lead for the heated clothing socket.

The yellow wire in the picture was used to connect the battery's positive terminal to the input terminal of the general purpose relay. This wire has it's own, inline fuse (used a 15 amp fuse). I used another yellow wire to conect the 12v output of the relay to the fuse block.




And last but not least, I tapped into the license plate light positive lead to supply triggering voltage to the relay. Note that I used a Posi-tap to connect to the wire. These things are the cats meow... easy and simple to use and will not damage the individual strands that make up the wire like most tap connects do.




For those who have never used a general pupose relay, here is information on how to hook them up:




The picture below shows the location of the heated clothing outlet. It turned out to be the perfect place for this as I tested the heated clothing out yesterday. The pigtail in the picture is hooked directly to the battery. It is used for a trickle charger.





My next project is to install a round Datel Voltmeter so that I can keep track of the electrons while using my heated gear. It will be hooked to one of the circuits on my newly added fuse panel. I've used the rectangular Datel VM on every bike I've owned over the past 15 years but for the life of me I could not figure out a way to mount it. The Datels are a bit on the pricey side but they are rugged, waterproof and reliable. I've never had one go bad.
 

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Did a little farkling over the weekend on my new 650LT with the goal of adding a switched, 6 slot fuse block to supply power to any electrical goodies I wanted to hook up. Initially I needed one of the switched circuits for my heated clothing.
Seems like a lot of work. I used this:
https://www.2wheel.com/atomic-skin-coax-battery-lead.html?sku=21200772&campid=622782687&adgrpid=26319598933&semkey=pla-280511972601&adid=104687737213&locid=9015746&device=c&network=g&site=&category=&pos=1o1&extn=&expmt=&qry=&gclid=CMDJ-KOi7NECFUU6gQodN3UNng
Requires unscrewing the battery leads and putting them back on. Fuse is in the wire loom. Poke the connector from under the seat when gets cold and tuck it back under the seat once it gets warm.
 

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Various Voltage Display Methods

I have in the past used a heads up voltage monitor by Signal Dynamics, there are several like that on the market. When I sold the 07 it went with the bike, I bought what looked like the heads up, cost as much, but was a expensive piece of crap, purchased from a reputable company. I came across a very unique monitor that is really a copy of a BMW I think , display, it is extremely accurate, each led is about 0.2 VDC, best part is normal operating voltage is 13.6 to 14.2 VDC, displayed by a total of 3 green led's for that range. From China, 1/3 the price of heads up, and 3 times the display. Day or night, a quick glance seeing green=A OK.

The first photo is what I have now and will need to upload a photo later. The second photo is my 2015 with the piece of crap, notice green is anything above 12 volts, or in reality, about 11.8 VDC, by the time it goes yellow, you are already in deep trouble.
Third photo is my 2015, at idle, around July, 2016.You will notice 3 green led's on, plus the main green lower one.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I definitely want most electrical goodies that I add to my bike to be on switched power, so the time spent was worth it.

Normally, it doesn't take much time to slap this all together. The one place where I got bogged down was in doing what I thought would be the simplest,... hooking the leads up to the battery!

The battery problem occurred because the terminal bolts are just long enough to accommodate one lead per terminal. Unfortunately I needed to hook up 2 leads to each,.. 1 set for the pigtail used for my trickle charger, and the other to the switched power setup. When I tried to connect both to the battery terminals, the bolts were no longer long enough to engage the nuts. I solved this problem by taking the battery out and placing some clay beneath each nut. This had the effect of pushing the nuts up so that the bolts could engage the threads. Stupid to have battery terminal bolts this short as I have never had this sort of problem on any motorcycle I've ever added this setup to, and this includes all my other bikes over the last 18 years, all Hondas or Suzukis.

The remaining 5 switched circuits will be used for other farkles down the road, first of which will be a voltmeter. After that will be a Garmin, a Sena bluetooth transmitter, and maybe my V-1 radar detector if I can figure out a way to mount it where it's got a clear field of view.
 

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I came across a very unique monitor that is really a copy of a BMW I think , display, it is extremely accurate, each led is about 0.2 VDC, best part is normal operating voltage is 13.6 to 14.2 VDC, displayed by a total of 3 green led's for that range. From China, 1/3 the price of heads up, and 3 times the display. Day or night, a quick glance seeing green=A OK.
Looks great. Do you have a link where it can be found?

The first photo is what I have now and will need to upload a photo later.
Will it be a pic of this monitor on your MK3?

Thanks!
 

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great job :)
 

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$$$$$$$$$

onewizard - can I take it from your pics, etc, that you do NOT recommend the "BackOFF" LED monitor any more...?
On the contrary, let's say I was p***ed with the product I purchased that copied Heads Up in appearance only, already installed it and realized it was useless, apparently it was claimed to be use full on Goldwings, I find that hard to believe , if the bike is running and voltage is 12.0 volts maximum, there is a problem, it had to be something less than 11.5 VDC to go yellow and less than 11.0 to go red, need I say more.

My source was the same as all my Givi cases,Mounting racks, Denali Sound Bomb,etc., to be fair, I have mentioned it and should go back with what is left of the crap, give them a chance to refund the purchase. So that one cost me $35 and to order a signal dynamics would have cost almost the same, so I was ordering a bunch of lighter outlets, relays and other stuff from China, came across it and thought why not, when it came I was extremely surprised as to how well it was made and how accurate it was, plus the hole I made was too large for a Heads Up, so it served two purposes, covering the hole and accurate volt indicator, and I have purposely pressure washed it several times, comes with 3M tape or 4 miniature studs with nuts for mounting, wire is about 28 gauge / 1/8 inch diameter and about 12 inches long.

I have more info and discussion on this thread, page 2.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/10-modifications-performance/29482-neat-little-voltmeter-review.html
 

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You could have got your switched six outlet array by buying a Fuzeblock FZ1

I have been using one for 6+ years and it has been very reliable and gives you the choice of switched or not with each circuit, depending on where you put the fuze.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
You could have got your switched six outlet array by buying a Fuzeblock FZ1

I have been using one for 6+ years and it has been very reliable and gives you the choice of switched or not with each circuit, depending on where you put the fuze.

Those are nice but it is overkill in function and price for my needs. I only needed one unswitched circuit and that was simple to make by just connecting that circuit directly to the battery. My fuse panel cost only $10 and the relay was $7. Both of these could be bought at almost any auto parts store. Yes, I'm cheap :laugh2: .
 

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40 Amp Relay

Those are nice but it is overkill in function and price for my needs. I only needed one unswitched circuit and that was simple to make by just connecting that circuit directly to the battery. My fuse panel cost only $10 and the relay was $7. Both of these could be bought at almost any auto parts store. Yes, I'm cheap :laugh2: .
I fully agree, the fuseblock is way overpriced for what it is, believe it or not, I don't have a terminal block, found it unnecessary , used Cantwist wire connectors and bullet connectors. Just got in 5 of the 40 amp relays SPDT c/w wiring harness for each, total of $17 Canadian delivered to my door, so a little more than $3 each. I found that a large part of my accessories came with waterproof fuse holders, plus a large part were no where close to the battery.

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/74-how-forum/104994-oxford-grips-power-distribution-outlets.html
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Re-post w/ pictures

Thanks to Photobucket, the links to the pictures in my original post have gone bye-bye. Finally found another posting site so I can now restore the pics. Unfortunately, I can’t edit my original post so thought I'd just redo it:


**********************************************************************
Did a little farkling over the weekend on my new 650LT with the goal of adding a switched, 6 slot fuse block to supply power to any electrical goodies I wanted to hook up. Initially I needed one of the switched circuits for my heated clothing.

Here are the main parts I needed to do the job (this picture actually shows the parts I used on my long gone, Honda ST1300 but they are the same as the parts I used on the Versys). I got the parts from Radio Shack, an Auto Parts Store, and Home Depot, so no need to order anything online:





Because there is not much available space under the seat, I wound up having to remove the OEM tool kit and use the space it occupys for the fuse block and ground buss. Everything is velcroed in place. The relay occupies a small open space behind the tool kit compartment. The picture below shows everything installed and hooked up. Sorry that some of it is hard to see.

The green wire running from the battery's negative terminal goes to the 8 terminal ground strip. All of the terminals on the strip are joined by a metal jumper strip. All ground wires will originate from these terminals. Note that the ground wires are all solid green, a convention used by Honda. Much easier to identify than Kawasaki's ground wire color code.

You'll note that in addition to the main negative feed from the battery, there are two additional wires connected to the ground strip. One of these wires goes to the relay. The other is the negative lead for the heated clothing socket.

The yellow wire in the picture was used to connect the battery's positive terminal to the input terminal of the general purpose relay. This wire has it's own, inline fuse (used a 15 amp fuse). I used another yellow wire to conect the 12v output of the relay to the fuse block.





And last but not least, I tapped into the license plate light positive lead to supply triggering voltage to the relay. Note that I used a Posi-tap to connect to the wire. These things are the cats meow... easy and simple to use and will not damage the individual strands that make up the wire like most tap connects do.

https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html




For those who have never used a general pupose relay, here is information on how to hook them up:




The picture below shows the location of the heated clothing outlet. It turned out to be the perfect place for this as I tested the heated clothing out yesterday. The pigtail in the picture is hooked directly to the battery. It is used for a trickle charger.




My next project is to install a round Datel Voltmeter so that I can keep track of the electrons while using my heated gear. It will be hooked to one of the circuits on my newly added fuse panel. I've used the rectangular Datel VM on every bike I've owned over the past 15 years but for the life of me I could not figure out a way to mount it. The Datels are a bit on the pricey side but they are rugged, waterproof and reliable. I've never had one go bad.


Edit: I now have a Datel DMS-20PC-1 mounted and up and running. I made a shelf for it out of a small piece of L-shaped aluminium and attached it to my Motowerek GPS Mount. It works great and is easily within my line of sight. It's showing 14.3 volts in this picture. Now if I could just figure out how to mount my V-1 radar detector!:

 

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Photo Hosting / Editing

Thanks to Photobucket, the links to the pictures in my original post have gone bye-bye. Finally found another posting site so I can now restore the pics. Unfortunately, I can’t edit my original post so thought I'd just redo it:


**********************************************************************
Did a little farkling over the weekend on my new 650LT with the goal of adding a switched, 6 slot fuse block to supply power to any electrical goodies I wanted to hook up. Initially I needed one of the switched circuits for my heated clothing.

Here are the main parts I needed to do the job (this picture actually shows the parts I used on my long gone, Honda ST1300 but they are the same as the parts I used on the Versys). I got the parts from Radio Shack, an Auto Parts Store, and Home Depot, so no need to order anything online:




Because there is not much available space under the seat, I wound up having to remove the OEM tool kit and use the space it occupys for the fuse block and ground buss. Everything is velcroed in place. The relay occupies a small open space behind the tool kit compartment. The picture below shows everything installed and hooked up. Sorry that some of it is hard to see.

The green wire running from the battery's negative terminal goes to the 8 terminal ground strip. All of the terminals on the strip are joined by a metal jumper strip. All ground wires will originate from these terminals. Note that the ground wires are all solid green, a convention used by Honda. Much easier to identify than Kawasaki's ground wire color code.


Edit: I now have the Datel mounted and up and running. I made a shelf for it out of a small piece of L-shaped aluminium and attached it to my Motowerek GPS Mount. It works great and is easily within site. It's showing 14.3 volts in this picture. Now if I could just figure out how to mount my V-1 radar detector!:

First this site has photo hosting specific to this site in the gallery, a total of 1000 photos with 60 per album, it is now semi-private in that only logged in members can see them, if you look at http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/3-member-rides/205457-four-days-riding-az-nm-ut-26-29-oct-17-a.html , this is a example of viewing availability for guests and members.As to editing you should be able to remove the photos and replace them,However I did it for you. FYI a excellent post on how to install, people like yourself should be given any assistance possible for taking the time to help others on this forum.:thanx:
 

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Why so much trouble ??

Kawasaki added a white purple wire in the loom of their 2017 models.
Black is ground
When you buy the original relay 99994-0556 at your dealer, this wire becomes switched power.
there is an outlet behind the left fairing and one behind the dash.
There is also a separate fuse




on the left is the (extra) switched power relay
you can see the red and blue connectors for the 12V outlet , wires in the ribed tube @ center/ bottom of the picture
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Why so much trouble ??
In one word, amperage. Multiple heated clothing items and electrical air pumps pull a lot of amperage. To be certain that the circuits are able to handle it all, I made my own.

It's not really that much trouble, especially since I've done this on seven or eight bikes. It works, it's reliable, and I know that the circuits can handle it. And to make sure, I install voltmeters to make sure all the electrons are properly managed so that the charging system doesn't get stressed.

Also, I know about the Kawasaki supplied switched wires. I installed the OEM electrical outlet which uses them and the factory relay. Didn't worry about amperage on that circuit because all I used it for is my GPS which pulls very little juice.
 
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