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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, 2 months ago I've installed a center stand, and from then I have a strange double clonk sound when I switch down, from 3 to 2nd for example.
Because of the center stand installation, the shifter came a bit on the outside of the bike (I don't know how to explain it). I also did the oil change and the Oil level is at Max level.
Another thing would be that the chain is touching the central stand mount when I am not on the bike... Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
Ovi
 

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If the chain is touching anything but the sprockets and swingarm guard, you have a major problem! Either you be really careful about chain tension (which is not going to be enough when the chain will wear unevenly), or you get rid of that center stand.

If the chain is not touching, that may just be a weak spring holding the stand up, which let it bounce when the bike jerks from weight shifting.

(I honestly think centerstands are way, WAY overrated. You need stands at home, not on the bike. Are you actually going to remove the wheel at home or on the road? For what, change tires yourself? Is the bulk, the weight, the uglyness worth carrying around all the time just for a rare maintenance done at home or by the shop? Or even worst, just for storage? Don't worry, this is my last post bashing centerstands. I done trying to help these guys :) )
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I partly agree with you about the center stand, and my reason for installing one is that I live in a small flat and, sadly, don't have any place for a home center stand :(
I want to the maintenance (chain, oil, etc) by myself and it is easier for me with the center stand.
I will check if the springs on the center stand are ok, but how can I check if the chain is touching the center stand while I am on the bike moving?
I've attached some pictures maybe you can give me some opinions (the bike is a bit dirty, but we have a couple of rainy weeks, so don't judge:p)

Thanks a lot for the help!

Ovi
 

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Check your chain slack first. Take a ride and see if you still get the noise. I am pretty sure from your pictures, the chain in touching the stand.
 

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If the chain is touching anything but the sprockets and swingarm guard, you have a major problem! Either you be really careful about chain tension (which is not going to be enough when the chain will wear unevenly), or you get rid of that center stand.

If the chain is not touching, that may just be a weak spring holding the stand up, which let it bounce when the bike jerks from weight shifting.

(I honestly think centerstands are way, WAY overrated. You need stands at home, not on the bike. Are you actually going to remove the wheel at home or on the road? For what, change tires yourself? Is the bulk, the weight, the uglyness worth carrying around all the time just for a rare maintenance done at home or by the shop? Or even worst, just for storage? Don't worry, this is my last post bashing centerstands. I done trying to help these guys :) )
As long as the centerstand does not interfere with riding the bike I like to have them. My sport touring bikes came with them, and my Himalayan came with one. The Himalayan is the first chain bike I've had that came with one. Sure makes it easy to clean, lube and adjust the chain will on a trip. How do you clean, lube and adjust he chain when you are on a trip?

I have not found the need to spend the money to add a centerstand on a bike not designed to have a centerstand, but I will say that cleaning and lubing the chain on a trip was a PITA.
 

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...I've attached some pictures maybe you can give me some opinions (the bike is a bit dirty, but we have a couple of rainy weeks, so don't judge:p)....
Can you re-take your pic #6, but focus on the chain where it is close to the foot of your stand (a BIT further right).

...I have not found the need to spend the money to add a centerstand on a bike not designed to have a centerstand, but I will say that cleaning and lubing the chain on a trip was a PITA.
A 7" piece of two-sided VELCRO (holds the front brake so the V doesn't move), and an old aluminum crutch, SLIGHTLY modded, works PDG for ME! BUT you WILL need either a 'spool' on the right side, OR an 8mm (later Vs) or 10mm bolt (earlier Vs) threaded into your swingarm.









 

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What brand center stand did you install, @ovidiu.samfirescu? Hepco Becker? SW Motech? AFAIK, neither one should ever interfere with the chain. I installed the HB. As it happens, I chewed up one chain to an incredible superslack floppitude by means of dumb neglect while crossing the dusty desert southwest, yet I never had the chain hit the stand. All's it did was start to snatch at the sprocket. My dumb was, I was only lubing the chain about ever thou, instead of every four hundred. Are you certain you installed the stand correctly, ovidiu? Where's it hitting? Is the stand cocked to port? I can't make out these thumbnail pics. I click on one, I get naught.
@dddd :
No, you don't need center stands at home... Just the opposite! Yes, you may have to remove a wheel on the road. I've had it happen. No, you're not always near either home or a shop when the poop hits the prop. I take it you've had some blowback from your anti-stand stand. Let's hope you don't learn the hard way. Both bulk and weight are low as you can go. Not an issue.

But here's a peach: "Or even worst, just for storage?" What? There's many and many a guy in this world with just a wee strip room between cars in the garage, where a bike leaning on the side stand would be a major pain for the old lady to sidle round, when compared to one on the center. I got a good buddy just up the street with two bikes on their stands between two cars just like that. The driver door to the old lady's bimmer opens up right where his bikes live. I have a teensy one car garage myself. The wife's car lives outside. My truck lives on the street. Whenever the bike fleet in our wee garage exceeds four, one bike or other, at least, has to to go up on the center stand. Otherwise, we can't tote the groceries through.

But most often, it's just this: I fetch up at Motel Patel in East Gnawed Pencil Tennessee, after too long of a day in the saddle, exhausted, ready to rinse off the road grime and collapse. Need an early start at the crack of tomorrow. Up on the center stand, shake my can of PJ Blue, spin the back wheel, done ... and bless the fact I thought to make life easy.

Tho with the KLR, it was most often this: Way out in the boonies, I'd prop her on the center stand so that a surprise three a. m. thunderstorm wouldn't sink sidestand into the mud and drop that puppy.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Hi guys,

Thanks a lot for all the answers!
What brand center stand did you install, @ovidiu.samfirescu? Hepco Becker? SW Motech?
I have a center stand from Motea (https://www.motea.com/en/centre-stand-kawasaki-versys-650-06-14-constands-806412-0) it is similar to SW Motech.


Can you re-take your pic #6, but focus on the chain where it is close to the foot of your stand (a BIT further right).
I will make today clearer pictures :)

I took a small trip with my wife this weekend (about 120 km) and I notice that under load (with my wife on the bike) I don't hear the sound so often.
I ordered today a torque wrench, and I will try to adjust the chain slack, but one question, because all the posts about the chain slack adjustment got me confused:
How should I adjust the chain slack:
- On the center stand, without any load
- On the side stand without load
- On the side stand with load
???

Also as a side note: my gear changes are not so smooth, like they are "catching" into something ... I don't know how to explain it. Do I need to do/check something?

Thanks again for all the help!

Cheers!
 

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How should I adjust the chain slack:
- On the center stand, without any load
- On the side stand without load
- On the side stand with load
???
Check your OWNERS MANUAL. Mine says to check it on the sidestand so that the chain is "under load". I use a "pit-stand" in my garage which loads the chain, so I check it the same way.

...Also as a side note: my gear changes are not so smooth, like they are "catching" into something ... I don't know how to explain it. Do I need to do/check something?

Thanks again for all the help!

Cheers!
I think that is normal. However many of us found the shifting to improve considerably once we changed over to FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil. I use Mobil1 15w-50
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think that is normal. However many of us found the shifting to improve considerably once we changed over to FULL SYNTHETIC motor oil. I use Mobil1 15w-50
I used Motul 5100 10W40 wich should be fully synthetic ... I will try the mobil 1 15W-50 next time. Is it ok to use 15W-50 btw?

I attached some clearer pictures ... you can clearly see how the chain "leans" on the center stand ...

Thanks guys :)
 

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I used Motul 5100 10W40 wich should be fully synthetic ... I will try the mobil 1 15W-50 next time. Is it ok to use 15W-50 btw?....
Yes - I've used it for MORE than 100,000 miles, as have many others. BTW - the M1 15w-50 is an automobile oil. NO clutch (or anything else...) problems!

IMHO your chain has too much slack.
AGREED!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Good :D
now, another question:
what torque should I use to tighten the bolts after I decrease the slack?
what tool should I use to make sure that the chain sprocket is straight?

Thanks!
CHEERS!
Ovi
 

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Good :D
now, another question:
what torque should I use to tighten the bolts after I decrease the slack?
what tool should I use to make sure that the chain sprocket is straight?

Thanks!
CHEERS!
Ovi

Once you get the adjustment where it needs to be I tighten the adjustment nuts "hand tight". Then use the 2nd nut (furthest to the rear) and tighten that down snug. (I've had these loosen on me before so check them every time you clean and lube your chain!)

As for chain alignment, I use the Motion Pro tool.

 

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what tool should I use to make sure that the chain sprocket is straight?
I use a Profi-Cat laser tool specific for the job. It is not cheap, but there is nothing else like it to really get the alignment perfect. For sure do not trust the marks on the swingarm. They are so notoriously bad that they shouldn't even bother to make the marks.

https://www.bikebandit.com/manuals-tools/motorcycle-tools/motorcycle-hand-tools/profi-laser-dot-chain-belt-alignment-tool

 

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Good :D
now, another question:
what torque should I use to tighten the bolts after I decrease the slack?...
The MANUAL says 80 pound-feet of torque for the axle nut.
 

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the adjusters are about 6mm bolts I think, so 7 N.m (only need to not move so a small torque is enough).
the axle is 108 N.m.

alignement is fair with the markings on the swingarm.
Don't forget to tighten the chain (screwdriver in sprocket trick) while adjusting and tightening the axle...
 
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