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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone. It's been a really long time since my last post...

I'm having trouble with my 2011 Versys throttle cable sticking when the handle bars are turned to the right. Is it time for new cables???

Here's the deal:

1. Throttle cables replaced about 2 years ago, about 15K-20K miles ago.
2. Adjusted free play with handlebars more or less centered
3. Throttle not returning to closed position when handlebars turned to right.
4. Checked, routed, unrouted, rerouted, checked and rerouted cables a few times. All should be good there.
5. Lubed cables (still sticking)
6. Readjusted free play according to instructions in manual with handle bars centered (still sticking to the right)
7. Readjusted freeplay with handle bars to the right (throttle returns, but lots of freeplay when handle bars centered)

Note: When following instructions in the manual, the first step is to turn the adjuster barrel at the control lever (accelerator cable) all the way in, then adjust the barrel on the decelerator cable down near the throttle body. Then turn out the accelerator cable until proper free play is achieved. The problem is that there is zero free play and turning out the accelerator cable only makes it tighter and it won't return at all, in any position.

Am I missing something??? Maybe the cables are damaged inside the housing, but they look OK at the ends. They moved freely when I lubed the cables.
 

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Remove the Gas Tank

I had a similar problem on my 2015 after I did my valve shim check. I found a rubber sleeve over the main throttle cable, held in place by a wire clip. it had moved forward and was pulling on the throttle cam, as the cable sits in the cam bracket. I also found the main wiring harness was pushing / pinching the throttle cable against the air box, I installed a 120 wire tie and relocated the throttle cable just by the main adjuster where the clip was holding that sleeve, now all is good. FYI you can't see the problem with the tank on.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think the routing must different on the 2011. The cables aren't routed along the gas tank or the airbox. They're visible without removing much of anything.

There are no visible kinks, but definitely the cables get more curved/bent when the handle bar is turned to the right, as the distance from the throttle to the throttle body is shortened. Maybe something is getting caught up then???
 

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Check at Throttle Cam

From what I remember, there is a post and pictures somewhere on this forum, also from my 07 I recall the cables sit/ have a clamp at the throttle cam, the 2015 they just sit in two openings, check yours, they need to have some 0.010 free play, particularly the push cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Outer jacket of cable

@onewizard, Is this the thread you were talking about?

http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/9-technical-discussion/17626-how-adjust-throttle-cables.html

I hadn't found it in my previous searches. It describes exactly my issue, although no new/helpful information about remedying the problem... :-(

I'm not entirely clear what you are referring to by a "clamp at the throttle cam". Again, the 2011 might be different than the 2007 in this regard.

Perhaps it's time to consult with my mechanic...
As to that post, see post 14 by STlee 29 , you see the two aluminum tubes passing through a upper and lower black steel band, those tubes the cable passes through , just sit in those black sockets, either top or bottom aluminum part/ tube, should be able to move towards the front of the bike by 0.010 to 0.020 of a inch. Also the explanation of slack in the upper cable is slightly wrong, as that is the push cable, it is the bottom that should have a slight curve to it.


There is adjustments on both push and pull, the pull is at the handlebar . I just tried to simulate the problem, if I keep turning out my adjustment by even half a turn at the handlebars, my throttle will remain in any position I leave it, that is it will not return. There are further adjustments to compensate for when you run out of adjustment at the handlebars, between the throttle cam and handlebars, it consists of a long coupling nut ( the identical one is shown in that thread, post by IAMRA shows the clutch cable adjuster )with two locking nuts and typically a rubber covering over it, this is covered in the manual. When you look at the throttle cam, if you grab your throttle, in full locked position, a slight ( 0.010 to 0.020 rotation at the throttle) should show the lower cable going from a slight curve and tightening and the upper push cable should do the opposite on release. If both cables are straight all the time and the only thing that happens is the cam rotates, then your adjustment is too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the clarification. I've got all that stuff dialed in, starting with the manual's suggested method, and tweaking it as needed. So far, the best I've been able to do is adjust the cables with the handle bars turned to the right. This gives me essentially no freeplay and the throttle returns when the handle bar is turned right and lots of freeplay when centered. I don't recall this issue popping up before.

Time to bring her in I think...
 

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If it varies with handle bar turn that is confirmation of a routing issue. Basically I tighten up throttle cable tension to the point of restricting throttle return back to idle, then back it off a half turn to full turn so the throttle spring will return it to idle. Basically as tight is it will go without restricting movement.
 
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