[quexpress]

http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa4/jeandr_photo/IMG_3352_DxO_zps0pf0yrrq.jpg
Have a look at the above picture, I think you are referring to the below picture, which has a locating pin in the bottom.
http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10345&stc=1&d=1300053225

If it is the second picture:
Well I did more research and realized my original suggestion may not work, because the tap drill for M6 is larger than#7.Rather than delete I thought I would leave it contained in {}. So the best option is to get a 7mm X 8mm hex bolt ( readily available size is M 7X8mm), get the taps as suggested below but M7. I have included a tap drill chart, in reality, very little force is required as this plate is to hold the wires toward the housing, this bolt is at right angles to the force applied, as is the pin in the bottom, manual says not to apply a locking agent such as loctite, JB weld might have worked, although I would take a chance, not because of the wire, more so the bolt coming out and getting in the gear box CRUNCH
Tap Drill Chart >:goodluck:

Note My suggestion is to go with a M7 taper and bottoming tap, However
the outside diameter of a M6 bolt is .233 inches, a 1/4 bolt is .250, however it likely will be .245 , so you would have a gain of about .006 per side of thread---not nearly enough. One other thing, measure the depth of the hole to the top and compare it to the bolt length, it might be deeper than the bolt length of the M6 X 16 mm . You could then get a longer M6 and cut the bolt shorter to match the depth.

{the bolt is a M6X8mm, I am going to suggest if you are really careful, you could buy a 1/4 by 5/8 hex bolt, or a 1/4 by 3/4 hex bolt and washer it down to 5/8. You need a 1/4 NC taper tap and a 1/4 NC bottoming tap. This is a blind hole, 1/4 turn past bottom and you strip the threads. There is another thing you could try, and that is a 1/4 self tapping hex bolt X 5/8, be aware that this is hardened, it is not meant to give a full depth thread, and any taping into aluminum requires lube and patience, plus it doesn't cut a thread very well and could cause the aluminum to crack from outward pressure.
My first choice would be the taps, the taper is strictly to get a few threads started, continue until you reach bottom, best to put a ring of tape around the tap, equal to the total drilled depth, if you have a mini grinder, you can grind the end of the taper tap , to the start of the first full thread, once you have started, not the same as a bottoming tap but close.

If it was somewhere else at a greater depth you could use a helicoil, trying that here would result in my third suggestion, that is you would likely bust through the housing if that happened I would suggest getting a longer M6 bolt, drill through the housing using a slightly undersized bit, tap it with a full thread. Insert the bolt and snug it by hand, take a file or hacksaw and mark the thread , remove and cut off to this length , file any burrs , if you have a nut, place it on the bolt before cutting, this way if there is a burr you will know by the fact the nut won't come off by hand, or if you are really brave zip cut it off while in place, not a good idea, as any burrs will possibly strip the thread on removal.Next step would be to attach the plate and apply either pro dope ( pipe sealant ) or some other thread sealant / gasket maker. Be aware with this sealant on the threads, tightening torque will be reduced, make it snug, once the pipe dope cures, it ain't moving.}

These are great suggestions. :thumb:
On old school Suzukis, for stripped 6mm cam cap bolts, 1/4-20 (self tap bolts) got many riders out of a bind and lasted forever. No drilling, no tapping... just carefully screw in the self tapping 1/4-20 bolt.
Note: Later on, if the head was off for whatever reason, it was time to tap, helicoil, etc.

 

[quexpress]

Ultimately, after receiving a replacement stator cover (which I'm not returning), I got a look at the bolt hole and realized it's actually quite deep! a full 16mm at least. For some reason they use an 8mm bolt, but there's much more space. When I realized that I decided it was silly to replace it and sillier to tap it, and I just went and got a 16mm long M6 bolt, put it in with loctite red and I've got it all back together now.
.

Note: If you ever need to remove that 16mm long M6 bolt, please make sure to use heat (torch). Otherwise the bolt has a GREAT CHANCE of breaking. Hopefully this will never be an issue for you (since you intend on installing a series regulator in the near future).

Good feedback! :thumb: