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Discussion Starter #1
I managed to destroy my chain in 11K miles by going by the marks on the swing arm. Measuring from the motor mount bolts to the axle confirmed the back tire wasn't straight. I have a new chain and sprockets on the way and broke the old chain and took off the sprockets today. I can't see *any* wear on either of the sprockets, even though the rear has been running crooked for about 10.5K miles.

I'm tempted to reuse the current sprockets and save the new ones for next time due to the low miles and lack of wear. I know you are supposed to change them together, but I've never changed with this little mileage and no visible wear on the sprockets. Penny wise and pound foolish?
 

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I find it tough to fathom "destroying" a chain due solely to misalignment while causing no wear on the sprockets. Maybe running dirty or too little slack contributed?...Either way, if there truly isn't wear on the sprockets, I'd run 'em! It may shorten the life of the next chain a bit but would likely be offset by cost.

My Versys (bought used) had the stock chain replaced at 17k miles and currently has nearly 27k, still with stock sprockets and a Parts Unlimited chain, all in great shape.
 

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I have the PROFI Laser CAT alignment tool - very easy to use.

Others use the Motion-Pro alignment tool which has an alignment rod - cheap and also very easy to use.

Sprocket wear is hard to determine as it is so gradual. The only way to see by how much is to take measurements of teeth valleys and diameters.

When wear is bad it is obvious when looking compared to new sprocket.
When it is really bad the teeth a thin the valleys are wide, and when insanely bad the teeth are hooked and some are broken and missing.

I'm inclined to put new Front and rear sprockets on if in doubt of wear.
Sprockets are cheap, chains are expensive.
 

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on a previous bike, I never changed the rear procket in 120'000 km (4 chains).
I always had to change the front though.
I never paid attention to alignment ever, just the swing arm marks.
 

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Profi Laser

I just replaced my OEM chain on the 2015 to a EK SRX2 Xring chain, as the original DID chain had a tendency for the links to become tight, 12,000 KM , my opinion is it was a bad chain. Placing the new chain beside the original chain, links were identical in length for a good 3 feet , then about 1 foot of chain was stretched by about a half link. Never did like DID chain. I have both the motion pro and Profi alignment tool, both easy to use, forget the marks on the swing arm, this has been discussed a million times before, but no harm in repeating good advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It sounds like it isn't uncommon for these stock chains to go pretty early. I don't remember getting less than 25K out of a chain before this, and I changed my last two Triumphs at 35K. The back wheel was definately crooked, but I guess the chain might have just worn out anyway. The marks on the swingarm are off by a little over a full mark. In any event, the chain needs replaced. With the low mileage, I think I will hold off on the sprockets just to see how it goes.
 

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I have a chain alignment tool with the rod similar to motion pro but all metal. Why are the alignment rods so short on these tools? Mine is about 7" long, I think 18" would provide a better indication of chain alignment.

JoH
 

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Excellent Link For Chain Replacement

People here on the forum love to waste money on new sprockets with each chain replacement. Check out this chain replacement video from professionals. You only have to replace sprockets if ... they are worn.

Buy a really nice chain. I got 22k out of the stock Enuma chain, and 9k out of the aftermarket Bikemaster chain.

I can't even feel the new DID ERV520 X-Ring chain.
Thanks for posting that link, always nice to hear a professional standpoint of sprocket replacement, which is exactly what I did. Basically I did almost everything as to riveting, my chain tool comes with 2 spacers for O ring X ring chains, so the measuring the width with calipers and possible crushing one side of the X rings is averted. My chain tool is the same one that he first shows in the video, the advice of using a grinder more or less eliminates breaking the extraction tool.

So I copied these posts to the How To forum and changed the title in that forum to reflect this.
 

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Thanks for posting that link, always nice to hear a professional standpoint of sprocket replacement, which is exactly what I did. Basically I did almost everything as to riveting, my chain tool comes with 2 spacers for O ring X ring chains, so the measuring the width with calipers and possible crushing one side of the X rings is averted. My chain tool is the same one that he first shows in the video, the advice of using a grinder more or less eliminates breaking the extraction tool.

So I copied these posts to the How To forum and changed the title in that forum to reflect this.
What make model of breaker/rivet tool is that?
 
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