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Discussion Starter #1
Has anybody on this Versys-X 300 Forum purchased, installed and evaluated Speedys rider peg droppers?
Judy curious how the foot peg to shift lever and rear brake lever is working out.
Thanks,
PCG
 

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I bought a set for my '17 X 300 and love them. The shift lever and the brake lever work good for me at 6'4" with size 14 boots. I tried the shift lever rotated one spline down, but ended up going back to the stock position and haven't lowered the brake pedal yet. These quick pictures show the peg/brake pedal/shift lever relationship.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I bought a set for my '17 X 300 and love them. The shift lever and the brake lever work good for me at 6'4" with size 14 boots. I tried the shift lever rotated one spline down, but ended up going back to the stock position and haven't lowered the brake pedal yet. These quick pictures show the peg/brake pedal/shift lever relationship.
Whisperquiet,
Thanks for posting the information regarding Speedy’s peg lowering brackets. I’m only 6’2” with size 13 boots. So if the brackets work for you they should work very well for me. What I really like is that the rider’s pegs are lowered straight down which keeps the pegs from being in the way of your feet when you put your feet down at a stop. I was surprised that you didn’t need to lower the shift lever or the rear brake lever. Appreciated the photos. I should receive my Speedy brackets later this week.
Thanks again,
PCG
 

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I may lower the brake lever a little. However, when I lowered the shift lever, it decreased the mechanical leverage and felt like it did not want to downshift cleanly. As you can see, the shift shaft exits the engine cases quite a bit above the foot peg and slopes downward. Instead of pushing the shift lever down, you are almost pushing it down and rearwards.
 

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I may lower the brake lever a little. However, when I lowered the shift lever, it decreased the mechanical leverage and felt like it did not want to downshift cleanly. As you can see, the shift shaft exits the engine cases quite a bit above the foot peg and slopes downward. Instead of pushing the shift lever down, you are almost pushing it down and rearwards.
I see the problem from the photo, this is something only you can resolve, when I say that, I wear size 12 boots and on my 650 Versys, it would be nice if the lever were 1.5 inches longer. I have it adjusted to the point that upshifting has possibly 5% extra movement beyond what is needed to upshift , downshifting has never been a problem.
In your case if you draw a arc using the footpeg as center, downshifting actually is trying to stretch the length of the shift lever, so depending on your boot size, say we use my size 12, I would rotate possibly 2 splines clockwise. If size 7 or smaller I would rotate CCW possibly 2 splines.
 

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I have the Kawasaki optional high seat and Motowerk peg lowering blocks.



A very simple fit after watching their online how-to. It would have been far more trial and error otherwise.
I lowered the brake lever (and adjusted the brake light play) and lowered the gear shifter two notches. Too much. I then put it back up one notch. Great when wearing road boots.



I have also fitted $26 free freight Chinese adjustable levers as I did not like the early engagement point of the brake lever. These ones come in many colours and have a threaded adjuster. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Roller-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

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Discussion Starter #7
Versys-X 300 foot pegs that lower and move back

I believe that I read somewhere on this Forum about some rider foot peg brackets that lower the rider’s foot pegs 1.6” and move them back 0.5”. I checked MotoWerks and see that Speedy’s peg lowerers drop the rider pegs 1.6” straight down.
Can anyone help me find this source? Or was what I read just an old post about Speedy’s original rider foot peg brackets? Which he corrected after receiving buyer’s feed back?
 

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I bought the Speedy/Moto Werk lowered foot peg blocks and they are 1.3 straight down and work great for me.

Our Kawasaki Lowering Foot Peg Blocks were custom designed to lower the front foot pegs straight down by 1.3" (33 mm) and to improve the comfort of your ride.

The tall OEM seat and the lowering blocks are the ticket for me at 6'4"/35 " inseam.
 

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However, when I lowered the shift lever, it decreased the mechanical leverage and felt like it did not want to downshift cleanly. As you can see, the shift shaft exits the engine cases quite a bit above the foot peg and slopes downward. Instead of pushing the shift lever down, you are almost pushing it down and rearwards.
The only way to fix the shifter is to extend the shifter down and forward, just as much as the peg has moved. Good luck finding someone to do that for you!
 

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Most bikes have a shifter linkage designed to ensure that the force is square to the shifter shaft. The X300 lever is straight onto the spline like a dirt bike. It is all about Kawasaki's strategy to make everything as light as possible. I am reminded of my KDX every time I work on it.
I'm thinking that the Versys 300 owes it's genealogy more to the KDX200 than the Ninja 300.
A road legal KDX200 with a large tank so that you can ride Freeways as well - just don't forget about the fragile plastics.
 

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Most bikes have a shifter linkage designed to ensure that the force is square to the shifter shaft. The X300 lever is straight onto the spline like a dirt bike. It is all about Kawasaki's strategy to make everything as light as possible. I am reminded of my KDX every time I work on it.
I'm thinking that the Versys 300 owes it's genealogy more to the KDX200 than the Ninja 300.
A road legal KDX200 with a large tank so that you can ride Freeways as well - just don't forget about the fragile plastics.
I would say more like 70-30 with direct spline as the majority. The purpose of the linkage is about tansmission and foot/peg placement. If a simple shaft cannot be used, the linkage is used to allow better angles and positions to be appropriately used with the configuration.

Even though weight is a consideration, the few ounces for a linkage hardly makes any difference.
 

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Even though weight is a consideration, the few ounces for a linkage hardly makes any difference.
Have a good look over the X300. All of the faring bolts are the minimum size to do their job. The frame is welded tubular steel and even the footpeg brackets are simple steel tube welded to the frame. The countershaft sprocket nut is so slim care must be taken to keep a socket square on the nut. Even the frame gusseting has holes to reduce weight.
Every component and fastener has been reviewed to minimise weight.
 

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Have a good look over the X300. All of the faring bolts are the minimum size to do their job. The frame is welded tubular steel and even the footpeg brackets are simple steel tube welded to the frame. The countershaft sprocket nut is so slim care must be taken to keep a socket square on the nut. Even the frame gusseting has holes to reduce weight.
Every component and fastener has been reviewed to minimise weight.
You do realize it is a small and a low cost class bike right? A steel frame is not a weight savings nor expensive! I guarantee cost overruled weight savings overall on the bike! It is called cheaply made~
 

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When their design plan also equates to low-cost manufacturing, they have a sales success.
 
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