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I have started to change my spark plugs and have got as far as removing the air cleaner this is where I am stuck
How in the world do remove the lower housing off the throttle bodies so I can see the spark plugs :mad:
 

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the SERVICE MANUAL [.pdf]

You can download the SERVICE MANUAL on this Forum. It will tell you HOW to do that, but I BELIEVE it will NOT mention removing the 'throttle-bodies' to change the plugs. (I've 'done' the valves and changed plugs about SEVEN or EIGHT times, and have only begun removing the 'throttle-bodies' the last couple of times, as it just makes access easier.)

:goodluck:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks how did you get the lower air box removed to do your plugs , I do not want to remove the throttle bodies but it looked like they were attached
 

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on my 2008, i unscrew the bolt holding the gas tank on, pull back the tank and pivot the front of the tank to the side and put in on a small utility table i place next to the bike. i do this carefully and always inspect the gas lines, which i do NOT disconnect (lazy). then i take off the TOP of the air filter housing. once inside, remove the air filter, inspect it and oil it if needed. there are screws at the bottom of the filter housing that you have to remove to get the bottom of the air filter housing off, as well as a hose that connects to the crackcase. (***forgive me, I'm doing this from memory.***) then, you'll see the spark plug coils, gently pop them off, then you should be able to access your plugs. apply "anti seize" to the new plugs when you put them in. do NOT cross threads. do NOT drop screws into the the plug bores or the throttle bodies. (cover the holes with a rag or paper towels just in case.) put it all back together and don't cross the plug coils. remember to reconnect that hose from the bottom air filter housing to the crankcase. this is the general routine. i hope this helps.
 

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What mileage is needed for a plug change?My 17 is still pretty new but want to be ready.
 

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I changed the plugs on my 1000 at 15K and they looked brand new... I have no intention of looking at them again until about 60K
I have to say that you MIGHT regret doing THAT. My wife's car has very similar plugs, and she mentioned that the car wouldn't hold in "cruise" going up hills near here, so I pulled and replaced the plugs (which looked NEW, but hi-mileage), and NOW it 'rockets' up them.

You should change them when doing the valves, and as you're ALREADY "IN" there, it's easy.
 

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I have to say that you MIGHT regret doing THAT. My wife's car has very similar plugs, and she mentioned that the car wouldn't hold in "cruise" going up hills near here, so I pulled and replaced the plugs (which looked NEW, but hi-mileage), and NOW it 'rockets' up them.

You should change them when doing the valves, and as you're ALREADY "IN" there, it's easy.
iridium plugs in cars are changed out pretty infrequently. all the same, I'm with ed. plugs are cheap and every 15K when you're checking the valves, change them. cheap preventative care.
 

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I did my plugs at 18k, they looked brand new. I have no intention of changing them again for at least another 20k miles.
 

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The plugs that come with the Versys are Laser Iridium...which means they are guaranteed for around 80.000km...i changed mine at 35k and there was no reason to do so...please don't touch them until 50k minimum..
 

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When checking the valves, remove the plugs. This makes it easier to turn the engine over. Inspect the plugs and discover they look virtually new. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads and reinstall. Inspect again at next valve check.
 

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When checking the valves, remove the plugs. This makes it easier to turn the engine over. Inspect the plugs and discover they look virtually new. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads and reinstall. Inspect again at next valve check.
yep, another way to look at it. if they look ok and the engine's running ok and gas mileage ok, then why change 'em? but i'd for sure inspect them while I'm in there.
 

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...if they look ok and the engine's running ok and gas mileage ok, then why change 'em? but i'd for sure inspect them while I'm in there.
In the "OLD DAYS" you COULD inspect the plugs visually, but MY experience w/ these 'new-fangled' irridium plugs is that you CAN'T.

The ones I replaced in my wife's car looked FINE, but the performance went WAY UP once I replaced them.

:thumb: - :thumb:
 

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CR9EIA-9 or CR9EIA for my 2015 KLE650F. "MOM" says CR9EIA-9 plugs, but new kawasaki parts page on kawasaki official website says CR9EIA plugs. I believe CR9EIA-9 "-9" means pre gapped and plug and play. CR9EIA needs self gap. Correct me if i'm wrong. MOM says gap on my bike is gapped to 0.8 to 0.9, which CR9EIA-9 is gapped to 0.9, why they put CR9EIA on the offical website is a mystery and that is gapped at 0.7.

DPR8EA-9

The first letter of the NGK spark plug code (in this case a “D”) indicates the thread size of the spark plug. There are three spark plug thread sizes currently being used in motorcycles and ATVs. “B” indicates a 14 mm x 1.25 pitch size, “D” indicates a 12 mm x 1.25 size and “C” indicates a 10 mm x 1.0 size. The letter “J” indicates a 12 mm x 1.25 size with two ground electrodes.

The “P” indicates a projected tip spark plug design that moves the spark deeper into the combustion chamber. The letter “K” in this location would indicate a 3/8″ hex (wrench) size.

Note; Do not use a projected tip spark plug where it is not called for as it could contact the piston and cause catastrophic engine damage.

The “R” indicates a resistor type spark plug. Resistor type spark plugs reduce the amount of radio frequency interference (rfi) that can cause ignition misfires and static on the radio, if so equipped. The letter “U” in this location would indicate a surface discharge gap (no ground electrode).

The first number (8 in this example) indicates the heat range of the spark plug, the higher the number the colder the heat range. Generally speaking, a colder heat range is used under high temperature conditions such as racing, while a hotter heat range is used under colder climate conditions. It is best to use the heat range specified by the manufacturer.

The letter “E” indicates the reach of the spark plug, that is, the length of the threads. There are two size reaches currently being used in motorcycles and ATVs. “H” indicates a 1/2″ reach, while “E” indicates a 3/4″ reach.

The letter “A” indicates some type of special feature. The letter “B” or “C” in this location indicates a spark plug designed for racing applications. The letter “G” indicates a fine wire nickel alloy center electrode. The letters “GV” indicate a gold palladium center electrode. The letters “IX” indicate an iridium center electrode. The letter “P” indicates a platinum center electrode. The letter “S” indicates a copper center core. The letter “V” indicates a fine wire gold palladium center electrode. The letter “Y” indicates a V-grooved center electrode.

The number after the – indicates the recommended spark plug gap in tenths of a millimeter. A -8 should be gapped to .8 mm or .032″, -9 should be gapped to .9 mm or .035″, -10 should be gapped to 1.0 mm or .040″ and -11 should be gapped to 1.1 mm or .044″. If there is no number at the end of the spark plug code, it should be gapped to .7 mm or .028″ unless specified differently by the vehicle manufacturer.
 

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Both is iridium center, found out -9 is 0.9mm gap. make sense why every 7600 miles kawasaki want you to replace it gap get larger over time recommended max gap is 0.9mm. But I got original sparks still 0.9mm gap keep them as spares.
 
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