I will probably have to retake this scope reading when it's hot, because that morning was giving a somewhat normal DC volts reading (14.1V).
The symptom it showed when abnormal is an output below 13V when idling.
I might rig a 9V on that little raspberry pi scope and bring it with me on a ride...
I prefer a current probe, my scope is two channels, unfortunately, my P6021 is ridiculous in price. I own 4 of them, need to look at selling some of my stuff. On the fence with my scope THS720P and a 500 to 1 differential probe good for 2500 VAC ( maybe Higher)
I got an electrosport ESR444 which is a direct fit (although you need longer bolts than the default M6x14, i.e. M6x25 do well.)
Judging by their 'running cooler' claim though they NEVER write this could be some mosfet/serial regulator, I took a chance.
The output waveform is quite different, though I'm not in a position to say it's worse (sorry the time base is 5ms/div, not 10ms like above).
There is the same ~0.25Vpp ripple.
After about 3 minutes of idling, the regulator was already warm to touch. This is not confidence inspiring. And made in china.
Other fun fact:
my low beam H7 bulb failed yesterday. when charging voltage climbed up and flipped between 14.4 - 14.5. I knew something happenned. The fun part is, I use the highbeam to avoid getting stopped by cops for lack of beam. This was dropping the charging voltage back to oscilating 14.3-14.4, not 14.2-14.3 as prior to the bulb burning.
I'm starting to hypothesize that a bulb about to burn is drawing more current (for many hours before)... The High beam is a sylvania silverstar Ultra (typically bluer, more powerfull), while the low beam is a sylvania silverstar xtravision (typically 3x longer lasting but less intense). So the high beam should in theory consume more, but didn't.
My turn for some fun facts. For those with incandescent lighting in your home, you know when someone turns another light on that happens to be on the same circuit as the one in your kitchen, you see a momentary blink / dimming. That is normal, the inrush current is 8 to 10 times running current. Mire fun facts for you guys that just lije your table lamp with the dimming feature and your 200 watt light bulb that keeps going and going and going, because it turns on at maximum dimmed level , the filament doesn't see that inrush cuurent.
I was running Osram night breaker 65 watt lamps, which were 100 watt at 14.2 VDC . one thing about my Safego 36 watt Led headlights, they draw 36 watt no matter what the voltage is.
This ESR444 is holding for now. Got a nice 14.4V as before.
Strange thing, the turn signal relay (which is electronic) is flashing a tad faster and has a "On" duty cycle of maybe 75%, but only when charging.
When on battery but not running (12-13V), the flashing is normal. No burnt lights.
I can't imagine what messes that up.
Sigh. It's always something...
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